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Emergency ascender?

Original Post
El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70

What is your preferred emergency ascender on you oh-shit-biner?

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Tibloc? Are there many other options? 

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

BD ATC-XP Guide or similar 

El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70
jdejace wrote: Tibloc? Are there many other options? 

I was looking at the Wild Country Ropeman after hearing about the rope sheath damage issues associated with the Tibloc...

adam gong · · Santa Monica, CA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 45

The ropeman is a solid option

Robert Rowsam · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 230

Micro Traxion

Chris K · · Clemson, SC · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 136

Prussik, klemheist w/sling and atc guide/clove hitch

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,535

Prussic, alpine runner, my 7mm cord chalk bag belt.
Never understood ppl running aroumd with all this extra hardware that will not work on two ropes, where you need it, going back up a rappel.
A regular runner, even dyneema works fine on most ropes using a kleimheist.

Billcoe · · Pacific Northwet · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 936

Sling

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,846

RopeMan 2   (Had them for years; don't know if they still make/sell the "1", the "2" is 100% metal, the "1" I think had a plastic part or two.)  Seems to work best with a slightly smaller diameter locking biner.

Will Cohen · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 95

Things that I'm probably already carrying. A prussik, carabiniers for a Garda hitch (can be done on draws too) and double length sling.

If bringing a purpose made item either a tibloc or microtraxion (edelrid spoc is sweet too and lighter)

El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70
Luc-514 wrote: Prussic, alpine runner, my 7mm cord chalk bag belt.
Never understood ppl running aroumd with all this extra hardware that will not work on two ropes, where you need it, going back up a rappel.
A regular runner, even dyneema works fine on most ropes using a kleimheist.

There are definitely self-rescue techniques that benefit from using some sort of ascender (as opposed to pusiks) if only for the benefits they provide in terms of speed.  Also, if going back up a rappel, it would seem to me to be be way less laborious to use one of these devices with the slingshot technique than prussiks.  

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

Crevasse self rescue? Then all of these micro-ascenders have merit.

Rock Climbing? Leave that bullshit at home and learn how to Prussik with a sling plus your gri-gri or other belay device  ffs. There is no place for an "emergency ascender" in standard kit other than slings.

Searching for the latest and greatest gear that you will never use is #gearwanking.

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

Ropeman 2 is very heavy for its size. I have that and a Camp Solo, and the Solo is really nice, and light. Also, the Ropeman only needs one biner to be completely fail proof, but two makes it "comfortable", where as the Solo only needs one, with the option for a second. The Ropeman can let out slack easier though, so there's tradeoffs with either. I prefer the Camp Solo/locker, it lives next to my hollow block/locker and atc/locker on my harness. Very light, triple redundant, get outta the shit, setup.

john greer · · modesto · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 110

I always carry a ropeman. Ascended. pro for simul climbing through a crux. moving around on a long tie off at the belay. a much shorter option when attached to your harness for hauling. One of the best small pieces of gear around.

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274

5 or 6mm cord that i can tie a friction hitch with.  combined with an atc guide/reverso, this is all you need..

Edit: you should always have something available to you for ascending a rope, especially if multipitch climbing. 

Al Pine · · Shawangadang, NY · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

2x Bachman hitched HMS biners and a 3rd to on the belay loop to clip an overhand on bight or clove (progress capture). 

Jason4Too · · Bellingham, Washington · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I'll use what I've got that suits the rope that needs to be climbed.  

If it's only a single rope then it's quick work with a tibloc with a foot loop above a microtraxion on the belay loop.  The benefit to this or a friction hitch up high is that someone can put a redirect through a carabiner clipped high on the foot loop to have a simple 3:1 haul system to raise the micro on the belay loop.  

I also really like a micro on the belay loop above a garda with a foot loop.  I'll typically grab the tail below the garda and bring it back up to a carabiner clipped to the belay loop just so I don't have to reach down to grab the rope below the garda every time I want to raise my foot.  I'll also tie a clove on the tail strand to my belay loop as a back up.

If it's two strands then it's likely to be a friction hitch above a tube device setup in guide mode off my belay loop but you have to be careful about having the right belay device for the rope size.  The last time I practiced this on a 9.1 in my Reverso the rope inverted and pinched in a way that made it really hard to release the rope to actually ascend.

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274
Jason4Too wrote: The last time I practiced this on a 9.1 in my Reverso the rope inverted and pinched in a way that made it really hard to release the rope to actually ascend.

hey Jason, i have a hard time picturing this in me head...especially with 2 strands running through the device. can you elaborate? thanks!

I F · · Curled up under damp leaves… · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 4,383

Ropeman 1 is cheap, light, and really versatile. Having a ropeman and a prusik is my go to

Marty C · · Herndon, VA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 70

Curt - imagine your device set up for a rappel with a sling extension

Connect a locker biner to the large hole on your Guide mode device and clip it to your belay loop (no need to disconnect from sling)

Device is now in Guide Mode (similar to when belaying a 2nd. off the anchor)

This serves as your harness ascender on ropes

Connect a foot ascender above device

You can now ascend ropes

Note: there can be significant friction on belay device making pulling the rope problematic

However, this does work if you need to do it

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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