Smith Rock fall/rescue 6/1

Anyone have any more info on what happened and if the young lady is ok?  Ktvz article only says a belay device failed?

https://www.ktvz.com/news/smith-rock-climber-hurt-in-20-foot-fall-rescued/1082828976

"...rescuers learned a belay device that had been set up failed to prevent the woman's fall"

I bet the author of this news article is not a climber. I won't even guess what they were attempting to describe. At least her injuries were 'non-life threatening'. 

Glad you're okay!  I wish you a quick recovery.  

Kelsey Hunter wrote: Be careful what you say online. You never know who could be reading it.

To answer the question, I am ok. Very injured. Yes, a belay device did fail. However, I don’t feel the need to explain anymore. 

Hello Kelsey!  Very glad you are okay.  And just to put it out there, I would say talking about what happened JUST may hopefully prevent someone in the future succumbing to the same  (or worse) outcome you experienced. 

BigCountry wrote:

{removed by admin}

Bullshit? You have some nerve coming online not showing ur face and blatantly bullying someone who has suffered immense injuries and is not mobile.  Not sure why you feel the need to go on mountain project, a community for climbers to be supportive and not put people down, and blatantly come out and bully someone like this. Have a nice day and maybe think twice before going online and claiming bullshit, "BigCountry".

Kelsey - you have no obligation in any way (now or ever) to share details of your accident. I'm really sorry that people have been pressuring you to do so when it is still really raw. I think there is some genuine motivation to learn from others' misfortunes, but there is also a voyeuristic feeling to it too and I don't blame you at all for declining to bare all in a public forum. Especially given the toxic and judgmental turn these threads tend to take.

As you are recovering I hope that you are able to take care of yourself mentally/emotionally as well as physically. The nightmares are normal since it just happened, but please, if they persist, reach out for some help with someone who is trained in management and prevention of PTSD. I'll be thinking of you (and I'm sure a lot of us out here are) and wishing the best for you and your recovery, as well as your partner's.

Elyas Bianchi wrote:

Bullshit? You have some nerve coming online not showing ur face and blatantly bullying someone who has suffered immense injuries and is not mobile.  Not sure why you feel the need to go on mountain project, a community for climbers to be supportive and not put people down, and blatantly come out and bully someone like this. Have a nice day and maybe think twice before going online and claiming bullshit, "BigCountry".

I think we just met the belayer. And I'm sorry, belay devices don't just fail. The people holding them do. Hope you heal up well in both body and mind! 

Kelsey, I'll echo the comments above: almost everyone who is a climber and is reading about your accident either here or on another news website both wants you to be OK and to heal but - like me - definitely wants to know how a belay device failed. It's possible to both care for you and also want to know what happened so that nobody else gets hurt or killed if it's all preventable.
 
No, you aren't "obligated" to tell anyone. But if my rope (for example) randomly snapped under normal usage and i was injured I would FOR SURE post something on MP giving out the details of my rope and how it failed so nobody else could get hurt like me. I like to think you (or your partner, who presumably could post something) will do the same thing as soon as possible.

The American Alpine Club publishes an annual Accidents In North American Mountainering compendium so we can all learn from accidents and try to stay safe. It's always enightening and I'm grateful for any information that can keep me safer in the future. Climbing is constant danger unless you are oblivious to the risks, which can happen to even the most experienced of us if we forget to stay humble. 

Sir Camsalot wrote:

I think we just met the belayer. And I'm sorry, belay devices don't just fail. The people holding them do. Hope you heal up well in both body and mind! 

{removed by admin}  Of course I feel horrible about the whole situation. I’ve been the one standing there by her side giving her whatever she needs. All you’re doing is putting someone down online and making someone who already feels horrible about the situation feel even worse about it. So go to work and don’t comment on my life or my partners life ever again. I hope this makes you feel like shit because what you wrote makes me and everyone involved feel like shit too. 

Sir Camsalot wrote:

I think we just met the belayer. And I'm sorry, belay devices don't just fail. 

uh- trango cinch? 

Please report the failed belay device to the manufacturer.  This will help them improve the device and prevent more accidents.

I saw it happen. the climber was being lowered via an atc in guide mode, when the sling to slowely flip the system and release tension was pulled, the entire device flipped. the climber then fell becasue there were no backups in place such as a munter or prusik.

Elyas Bianchi wrote:

{removed by admin} Of course I feel horrible about the whole situation. I’ve been the one standing there by her side giving her whatever she needs. All you’re doing is putting someone down online and making someone who already feels horrible about the situation feel even worse about it. So go to work and don’t comment on my life or my partners life ever again. I hope this makes you feel like shit because what you wrote makes me and everyone involved feel like shit too. 

Not quite sure how I put her down. REALLY trying hard not to put you down. Hope you guys heal up well after this and learn from whatever mistakes were made. They happen to all of us and we learn from them and move one. Best of wishes.

zach s wrote: I saw it happen. the climber was being lowered via an atc in guide mode, when the sling to slowely flip the system and release tension was pulled, the entire device flipped. the climber then fell becasue there were no backups in place such as a munter or prusik.

Sounds like user error to me, not belay device failure.

I understand the belayer coming on here and trying to defend him/herself with anger. It's understandable that you are mad but hopefully you learn from your mistakes and it doesn't happen again.

zach s wrote: I saw it happen. the climber was being lowered via an atc in guide mode, when the sling to slowely flip the system and release tension was pulled, the entire device flipped. the climber then fell becasue there were no backups in place such as a munter or prusik.

And there lies a scenario that's believable. When lowering in guide mode an auto block, such as prusik, is required by manufacturer and also taught to guides. Sorry to hear about the accident, hope all recover fully and quickly. No need to contact BD or call this a belay device failure. Another reminder to learn how to properly use your tools ladies and gents. Back to calling me a bully carry on!

BigCountry wrote:

And there lies a scenario that's believable. When lowering in guide mode an auto block, such as prusik, is required by manufacturer and also taught to guides. Sorry to hear about the accident, hope all recover fully and quickly. No need to contact BD or call this a belay device failure. Another reminder to learn how to properly use your tools ladies and gents. Back to calling me a bully carry on!

In their PDF, I see an illustration where it looks like they run the brake side through a carabiner with a munter when lowering in guide mode. Is that what you're talking about?

This is a good write up of how this could possibly happen. 

Ah geez - Just watched this video youtube.com/watch?v=EyxeUg7…  and you can see how violent the belay device (reverso in this case) flips. Based on what people are saying here, it sounds like that belay device flipped but maybe the belayer wasn't ready for it? 

Adam Lewis wrote:

In their PDF, I see an illustration where it looks like they run the brake side through a carabiner with a munter when lowering in guide mode. Is that what you're talking about?

That is the manufacturer recommendation and does work well. A little fussy because you're basically lowering with the munster while trying to pull a sling to keep the atc "free". I won't give details on other methods but there are others that are easier and safe. Honestly I stress not lowering in guide mode it just feels akward to me. Now since some of you are looking, glance at your gri gri PDF as well, it has shenanigans for this same type of lowering. Learn your tools or they are not safe. If the PCIA still exists spend some money on a course even. Just please please learn how to use your tools!!

BigCountry wrote:

And there lies a scenario that's believable. When lowering in guide mode an auto block, such as prusik, is required by manufacturer and also taught to guides. Sorry to hear about the accident, hope all recover fully and quickly. No need to contact BD or call this a belay device failure. Another reminder to learn how to properly use your tools ladies and gents. Back to calling me a bully carry on!

Not only a backup autoblock, but a redirect should be used. From what zach said, this is definitely not a device failure. Although the victim's/belayer's first instinct was to blame something else (device failure), maybe it wasn't. Oh, and you can call this bullying if you want. I wear crack gloves, so I can take it. :)

Glad you're going to be OK, Kelsey.