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Style with Ground Up Bolting when Hooking?

Original Post
Daniel Heins · · Seattle, WA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 2,034

If you develop trad routes ground up, but occasionally place bolts while hanging on hooks, do you only then claim the first (free) ascent when you go back and lead it from the ground on without any time resting on hooks?  

What about on a big multi-pitch? If you place some bolts for protection on lead but rest on hooks, if you don't go back to the start of the pitch and re-lead it (and lets say no aid pitches end up happening) do you get to say you put up a free route on a face?

I'm asking thinking towards the remote hypothetical of say developing remote granite big walls, and wonder what sort of style is actually used since it's fundamentally boring nitty gritty details compared to the overall ascent.

Nut Tool · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

All that matters is that you're honest about the style in which you established the climb? Grade isn't established until consensus is reached so someone is going to "improve" on the style of the FA (might as well be you).

Nut Tool · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

These nerdiest of details weigh heavily on my mind too. 

Brandon Fields · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5

If you pull or rest on any gear it’s not considered a free ascent by the vast majority of climbers.

More importantly: we’re all playing an advanced game of “the ground is lava” so what does it matter?

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

If you are just using the hook to place the bolt but make the move free after the bolt is in I would consider that a free ascent.  I wouldn't split hairs over it, especially on multi pitch backcountry routes.  If asked just be honest about it.   Myself, I would probably pull the rope and try and free it because I'm neurotic about that stuff but I'm not going to tell others to be that neurotic.  It's just climbing.

Daniel Heins · · Seattle, WA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 2,034

Fair enough! All makes sense. Definitely ideal would be to re-lead pitches after bolted but the ideal definitely comes second to actually getting things done when the weather is ok/in the desired time window.

All that matters is that you're honest about the style

Definitely the key part there.  In this sort of situation I'd be excited enough to have figured out a concievably free climbable line at all.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

If you want to claim a free ascent, you’ve got to free the pitches. That would mean hand drilling from a stance or going back and leading them clean without stopping to drill.

Whether or not the FFA actually matters is up to you. 

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30
  1. My own style for minimum standard for a free ascent; if you are advancing the pitch by free climbing only, no dogging, but you place pro from aid, fixed pro or bolt, you can lower to drop hands rest or begining of pitch to start over to get the pitch free. If you are dogging moves or doing aid moves to place fixed pro, I feel a red point of the pitch is required.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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