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Why bolt a route or high ball it when you can just Top Rope it?

Zach Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Stick it to the man and his interwebs, amirite?


ps Down with ROADS!

There might not be roads where we're going. But you can be damn well sure there will be bolts.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
Brandon Fields wrote: Top roping off gear/naturals takes some time to set up. Depending on the edge of the wall and protection options, you may have to bring a lot of extra gear with you. I have a 60 ft 11mm static line with webbing around it for particularly heinous natural TR setups and it gets used pretty often. Most climbers don't know how to set up a TR on naturals or gear and i do mean most, like, you'd be hard pressed to find a climber at a gym, sport crag or bouldering area who knows how to do it properly. Climbers mucking about on the edge of cliffs without proper protection is one of the leading causes of injury and death in the community and as someone else mentioned, many many many areas have a dangerous possibility of knocking rock down the cliff on other parties.

The topic of bolting rocks will forever be the abortion debate of this community. Some view it as unacceptible under any circumstances, some unabashedly love it, some view it as a necessary evil, some don't give a damn either way. No one rule will ever satisfy everyone in our community. Let's just all agree not to bolt lines that go reasonably well on gear, yea?

This community is in denial about what their real impact is (their daily life) as compared to bolting rocks which doesn't mean shit in the grand scheme of consumerism and commuting to the crags.

Cracks that go entirely on gear should not be bolted. Bolts can be added by the FA to any climb they think is not adequately protected on gear as long as it is worth climbing.

Brandon Fields · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

This community is in denial about what their real impact is (their daily life) as compared to bolting rocks which doesn't mean shit in the grand scheme of consumerism and commuting to the crags.

Cracks that go entirely on gear should not be bolted. Bolts can be added by the FA to any climb they think is not adequately protected on gear as long as it is worth climbing.

You and i are in agreement on those points. :)

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

Bet you were happy that bolt saved you on Sword Of Damocles 5.9,  Tradiban.

5.Seven Kevin · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

This community is in denial about what their real impact is (their daily life) as compared to bolting rocks which doesn't mean shit in the grand scheme of consumerism

Never seen a more accurate post.

Climbers are either the dumbest fucking group of people, or so far in denial that indeed, yes, they're stupid. 

Yukon Cornelius · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0
Tradiban wrote:

Erosion is a natural process. The cliff top would erode with or without humans. 

I will take erosion any day over intrusive and destructive bolts.
It’s pretty standard practice everywhere to take steps to avoid excessive erosion cause by humans. Establishing paths and encouraging people to stay on them, no wake zones on bodies of water with sensitive shorelines, camping only in official campsites. Obviously it’s different way out in the wilderness, but Barn Bluff is right in town with parking a quarter mile away, and it’s a popular park for non climbers as well. Not to mention this way is safer for the climbers below. Maybe it’s worth mentioning that this spot is in Minnesota, and it’s not just rock on top but relatively fragile soil. Probably also worth mentioning that I’m a relatively young climber and this area was bolted before I was born! So I’m taking the guide book writers word for it, not speaking from my own experience.
Spider Savage · · Los Angeles, ID · Joined May 2007 · Points: 540

At Texas Canyon I set up Pangea Wall so that it could be "Grid Toproped" but alas, after a few years no one could figure that out and then someone stole the hangers.  Now there are lead routes.  There are so many features on this wall it is totally a candidate for "grid bolting" but it is such a beautiful place that bolts and set lines ruin the view and the adventure.  But alas, times change.

Parachute Adams · · At the end of the line · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0
Tradiban wrote:

Erosion is a natural process. The cliff top would erode with or without humans. 

I will take erosion any day over intrusive and destructive bolts.

Unless it is retro bolting at Tahquitz, then you're all for it.

Don't have the balls to do it but you sure do like to throw support behind the idea every year or so.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Jeffrey Constine wrote: Bet you were happy that bolt saved you on Sword Of Damocles 5.9,  Tradiban.

Lol. Jeffery, you are so pathetic stalking my tick list from 6 years ago! At least you aren't being a coward this time, facing your tormentor, you GO girl!

Bolts are aid!

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674
Tradiban wrote:

Lol. Jeffery, you are so pathetic stalking my tick list from 6 years ago! At least you aren't being a coward this time, facing your tormentor, you GO girl!

Bolts are aid!

So I guess you were having feminine aidiban moment that day lol  6 years ago or 6 mins whats the difference. 

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880
Zach Smith wrote: Buncha vandals running around calling themselves constructive altruists.

I usually call myself an Anarchist/Voluntaryist.

100's of people play on stuff I've built every year. What have you done?

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

Crypto keeper gets paid well ! 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Jeffrey Constine wrote:
Crypto keeper gets paid well ! 

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

Don’t worry I’ll make sure you will have a safe Punchbowl day. 

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

I too run out bold 5.6 ascents.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
5.Seven Kevin wrote:

Never seen a more accurate post.

Climbers are either the dumbest fucking group of people, or so far in denial that indeed, yes, they're stupid. 

Just so sheltered from the real world that a hobby is life. Its a privileged white person thing.

onX Sucks · · onX sucks, USA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 319

Why are there bolts on El Cap?  Just top rope the climbs ffs

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Jeffrey Constine wrote:

So I guess you were having feminine aidiban moment that day lol  6 years ago or 6 mins whats the difference. 

Next thing- compare him to a homosexual or colored person.... Oh wait, you did get some homophobia in that didnt you? Way to degrade millions Jeffry!

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Jeffrey Constine wrote:

So I guess you were having feminine aidiban moment that day lol  6 years ago or 6 mins whats the difference. 

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 447

"Seems if you can't get up it with natural pro or top rope you shouldn't climb it."

Yeah, and plus I love busting out my 20,000-meter rope for El Cap!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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