static line anchors for lead climb projects

There are some climbs that I would like to set up bomber anchors on so I can project them for redpointing.  

Where I'm climbing there are often bulges and ledges that the climbing rope runs over when I set up an anchor with a quad or quickdraws.  I've already thrashed one dynamic rope and now that I'm on to the next am trying be smarter about rope wear.  I've been reading about using static lines and they seem like a versatile option that would certainly prevent wear by affording ample anchor length such that the anchor is fixed over the less-than-vertical area where all the wear occurs with rope running smoothly through steel carabiners past the edge.  However, I'm wondering how practical this option would be if the only way to get to the anchors is by lead climbing the bolted routes.  Does anyone have any experience on getting a 50-83 ft line up to the top of the climb?  I'm thinking it's too heavy to rack, especially for a project route, and I'd have to have my belayer tie the coiled line to the climbing rope and then haul it up, once I'm at the anchor.  And then start tying the clove hitches.  Seems like a lot of work.

I also have a 30ft 7mm nylon cord that I typically use for making the quad--which can be easily racked.  I could treat this the same as a static line, but I hesitate to do this because it is not as abrasion resistant as polyester-sheathed static ropes.

A final option would be slings, but I also wonder about abrasion resistance in that scenario.

In this scenario are you climbing past the bulge that you would want to extend the anchor over? I think that from what you are explaining you might just have to take the rope wear, or find different routes to tr. Some routes just suck to work on a top rope, and it is unavoidable. The harder you start leading the higher angle the climbing will become and the less this will be an issue.

Have you considered stick clipping bolts as you go instead of settling up a pure tr?

Or am I misunderstanding and the anchors are only jus above ledges that you can stand on, and these ledges are not lower on the route?

In this case extending an anchor past the ledge is a good way to save a rope and potentially yourself. Avoiding rope running over a ledge is always key!

You can extend these anchors with any of the ways you mentioned. Cord with a quad, or slings. If the bolted anchors are close enough to the ledge consider alpine draws. If not, stick with cord.

Advice above is good. You could also just tie the end of the static line around your harness and trail it up. Then you only need to dog up the route. This removes the bulk factor entirely, and mitigates the weight issue as much as possible.

David Arredondo wrote: Advice above is good. You could also just tie the end of the static line around your harness and trail it up. Then you only need to dog up the route. This removes the bulk factor entirely, and mitigates the weight issue as much as possible.

The only problem this might cause (in classic ygd fashion) is that the single rope to the anchors will move and grind way more on the ledge with sode to side movements and falls, so would need to be examined/kept an eye on. An extended anchor, not so much

This is what I imagine you are trying to do, Evan.

David Arredondo wrote: Advice above is good. You could also just tie the end of the static line around your harness and trail it up. Then you only need to dog up the route. This removes the bulk factor entirely, and mitigates the weight issue as much as possible.

I like that solution.  Seems like it would solve the problem.  Yeah the picture is like what I'm trying to climb, except the bolts are a few more feet back.  Thanks for the input.