How versatile can one pair of boots be?

How close can you get to a do-it-all boot for hiking and moderate mountaineering? Can one boot bridge the gap between a) hiking/trekking at altitude or in cold temps and b) Ecuador volcano climbing? If so, what boot would that be?

How far can a lightweight single boot go for a reasonably fit person who doesn't need to stand around belaying?

These are the questions. I am planning a trip to Ecuador to do some hiking, some trekking, and ultimately a Cotopaxi climb. Is it possible to do all of those things with one pair of boots, which I can break in with some winter Appalachian Trail section hikes?

That’s an unreasonable ask, unless you are super fit and fast on Cotopaxi. Like, so fast you can run up and down to avoid the cold. (Disclaimer: I’ve not climbed Cotopaxi.)

I climb in Scarpa boots so I can use them as an example, but this applies to most other lines. For non-technical summer moderates they make the Charmoz. Need something stiffer and with some light insulation, the Mt Blanc Pro. Getting cold, Phantom Techs. Getting to 6,000 meters, Phantom 6000.

Walking the AT in Phantom 6000s would not be fun. Being at 17,000 feet with the Charmoz likely means frozen feet.

That’s why it’s not uncommon for alpinists to own a quiver of shoes and boots. Also, when you add up the costs to get on Cotopaxi, you’d hate to fail because you didn’t invest in the right gear for the climb. Hope this helps. 

How cold does it get on Cotopaxi?   I agree with John on the quiver, but my go tos unless it’s really freaking cold are the Scarpa Mont Blanc Pros that are dang close to being Jared’s unicorn.  

Mark Pilate wrote: How cold does it get on Cotopaxi?   I agree with John on the quiver, but my go tos unless it’s really freaking cold are the Scarpa Mont Blanc Pros that are dang close to being Jared’s unicorn.  

How cold can you take the Mont Blancs if you keep moving? 

On my South America trip last year (we didn't go to Ecuador but climbed and trekked in Chile, Bolivia and Peru) we took trail running shoes and full-shank leather mountaineering boots. Shoes were fine for all the trekking stuff, and in cases where there was snow we walked in the shoes but carried the boots.

We used our single boots up to 6000m. I have Garmont Mountain Guides and my partner had Mont Blancs. It was doable but our feet got pretty cold. The second 6000m peak we attempted we hired double boots.

I've worn my mbp in VT (smuggs) on single digit days climbing and belaying and not had any problems. This was while wearing a synth liner sock, getto vapor barriers (shopping bags) and a medium weight wool sock in them. For me, the important part of keeping my feet warm in those boots is keeping my insulating layers dry. 

Jared- to answer your question, I agree with Nick.  Personally I don’t think twice as long as it’s north of 0.  Not sure if you have to account for a MN/VT perspective vs. an SC one.   Even my perspective is different based on start of season to end of season.  I definitely get my “winter blood” about a month in, and what seemed cold before becomes t-shirt weather by January.  

Jared Chrysostom wrote:

How cold can you take the Mont Blancs if you keep moving? 

I think it's subjective.

Do your feet get cold easily? If my toes are cold it is probably because my feet sweated and and the tips of my socks are damp. I have an old version of the Scarp Kailash I have had resoled and have spent teens single digits in them, and my feet are never cold. I love those boots and hiked thru a snow storm, in them, to Mt Rogers, VA. this past winter. I think a more robust moutaineering boot is really about keeping the moisture out while spending all day in the snow. Because the moisture barrier is no longer as efficient in my Scarpas, I bought a pair of Assolo Fugitives, as my new snow boot; they are not considered alpine boots, but they are fine for winter in the Apps and spring in the Rockies. I don't know anything about Cotapaxi. I will point out that the goal of the outdoor apparel industry is to sell us shit we don't need.

Why not get an insulated leather boot, like the referenced Scarpa Mont Blanc/Garmont Mountain Guide Pro/La Sportiva Nepal, and then pair it with an overboot or supergaiter for colder temps and higher altitude use?  And I agree on use of a vapor barrier to aid warmth.  

It depends on what you're optimizing for.  If you want a boot that's good for Cotopaxi (at 5900m) you should get something like Phantom 6000 or G2SM and know that you'll have warm feet but less sensitivity while you're ice cragging in New England.  Can you do conditioning hikes to get your feet broken in in the winter in NE? Absolutely!  If you'd rather optimize for winter hiking in NE then you should do something different.

My experience is that I've had Charmoz boots up to 9000' in the Cascades in winter when it was in the single digits but I was moving pretty fast on a single day push.  I've also had my Nepal Cubes down to -10F and spent the day belaying my partner when she was first getting into ice climbing.  Both were comfortable without extraordinary measures.  My wife has since had her Nepal Evos down to -30F for a day of ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies this last winter but a couple of her toes are still numb from that trip after she laced her boots too tight.

Could you climb a 6000m peak in something light?  Yes but you don't leave much margin for error.  

Given the rest of the cost of the trip and the other gear you'll need to climb Cotopaxi comfortably I would not skimp on the boots.

I appreciate the comments, everyone. To ask the same question a different way, how far into hiking boot territory can I take something like a Mont Blanc Pro or a Nepal Evo?

C J wrote: Why not get an insulated leather boot, like the referenced Scarpa Mont Blanc/Garmont Mountain Guide Pro/La Sportiva Nepal, and then pair it with an overboot or supergaiter for colder temps and higher altitude use?  And I agree on use of a vapor barrier to aid warmth.  

the main issue for high altitude treks is you want the ability to take the boot liner out at night and dry it in your tent. this is the main downfall of a single layer insulated boot (and why they are not recommended above 5000m)

Jared Chrysostom wrote: I appreciate the comments, everyone. To ask the same question a different way, how far into hiking boot territory can I take something like a Mont Blanc Pro or a Nepal Evo?

How comfortable are you with your feet looking like hamburger?

Seriously though,  trail runners +climbing boots.  Even if you haven’t had blisters before in your boots a hot humid long approach will munch your feet.  

Realistically, if you plan to spend real time climbing mountains, you need a set of summer boots (Charmoz for me), winter singles (Nepal Cube) and winter doubles.  I run hot and can push winter singles to -20 if I am on the move, but colder than that or overnight stays... doubles it is.  Boots (and sleeping bags) are the two places where trying to make do cause immeasurable discomfort.

Lots of good and varied advice here. I'll throw in my personal two cents.

I have climbed a fair bit at that altitude range in South America. I own Scarpa Charmoz (single boot) and Scarpa Phantom 6000 (double boot). Before almost every trip, I hem and haw over the decision. Some generalizations that I've found:

My choice for north-facing routes and routes on which I will be moving fast (like glacier walk-ups) is the Charmoz.

If I am on a cold south face, and/or doing a route with many hanging belays (so, not the normal route on Cotopaxi), and/or guiding clients (lotsa waiting), and/or doing an extended expedition (2+ nights camped on glacier), then I will opt for the Phantom 6000.

I can wear the Charmoz trekking all the way down to the jungle, no need to pack trail runners. This is a huge plus for me. No way would I do the jungle trek in the Phantom 6000.

For Cotopaxi? Tough call. Could go either way. I do want to reiterate Jason's advice here, as it is of great importance.

Could you climb a 6000m peak in something light?  Yes but you don't leave much margin for error.  

Jared,

As CJ stated, keeping your insulation dry is critical, so using vapor barrier socks is the way to keep single boots dry on the inside.

Another way to boost warmth is with chemical packs. With vapor barriers and good gaiters you can’t do more. Of course keeping your torso worm, staying fed and hydrated play a role, too.

Listening to other posters who have experience in the area boosting a pair of MBPs or similar might be the answer. My MBP are the most comfortable boots I’ve ever owned (for a technical boot). I could trek in them all day, though they will be hot in warm weather. And renting is an option!

You’ve been given lots of input and experience here. 

curt86iroc wrote:

the main issue for high altitude treks is you want the ability to take the boot liner out at night and dry it in your tent. this is the main downfall of a single layer insulated boot (and why they are not recommended above 5000m)

Use a vapor barrier, problem solved.

I´m perplexed. Why would one want a do-it-all boot for two extremely different environments? luggage weight?

I´d take a light trekking shoe for everything else, and rent a proper boot in Quito if attempting Cotopaxi. Also, imagine passing by locals while trekking on huge boots vs their flip flops...

No experience in SA but every season I try to break my feet into my ice climbing boots(Nepal evo) by going hiking for a few miles... substantially slower and less comfortable, notice how I said break my feet into the boots not the other way around.
If you’ve got good ankles then trail runners until you hit snow is a good way to go. 

I did Chimborazo in leather singles and my feet froze (numb to the ankle for hours). Doubles=happy feet at those elevations. Singles are doable, I had no lasting damage, but it’s neither fun nor safe.