Climbing conditions in New Hampshire

Etha Williams wrote: Anyone done the easier (≈5.7 and under) leads at P-way lately? Seep-y or dry-ish?

(Apologies for repeatedly bumping this thread with various "dry or not" queries, and thanks again to everyone who's answered!)

Pway is very seepy and hard to dry in general. Also, beware, I've heard reports that the back flies are in full force. For leads recently at pway, I've done "Pete's tree" and you can climb soaking wet and is still "fun" (spicy), "pine tree crack" is at the Dome which dries the best out of all the crags, "the roof" dries better than the others at upper cliff but upper cliff is really seepy, "cornered" on ridgeline wasn't bad at all recently. 

Rob Rogowicz wrote:

Pway is very seepy and hard to dry in general. Also, beware, I've heard reports that the back flies are in full force. For leads recently at pway, I've done "Pete's tree" and you can climb soaking wet and is still "fun" (spicy), "pine tree crack" is at the Dome which dries the best out of all the crags, "the roof" dries better than the others at upper cliff but upper cliff is really seepy, "cornered" on ridgeline wasn't bad at all recently. 

Thanks so much, Rob!

I'm guessing Longstack might be a better bet for dry-ish easy leads in southern NH tomorrow?

Edek F wrote: I would love to get on W-G or Moby Grape at Cannon as well, any updates?

I mean there was a possibility of Snow in the Northern White's just recently. It has been wet, places are still soaked and Cannon sheds. I doubt anyone is going to tell you it is great go for it. It has still been pretty early spring conditions around (extended early spring this year...), I would personally stay away from Cannon. Especially if you are not comfortable enough to make the assessment on conditions by looking at weather history and feeling comfortable with that decision. YMMV, it might be great if your risk tolerates it, there may be a ton of people there and maybe nothing will happen... But large rockfall is a numbers game...

Not much has changed since the updates earlier in the thread. A lot of the ice is probably gone, but I would bet there have still be some cycles of freeze thaw higher up, especially after this last set of storms... People do still climb Moby Grape!  Just about a year ago in June I was on the lower pitches Union Jack when out of the blue rock fall from above started raining down, I was shielded by an overhang but I watched some softball sized and larger debris rain down the cliff. My climbing partner was on rappel and had luckily rappeled out of the rock fall danger. Rock fall is real, and often times it unleashes from WAY above and does NOT have to be human triggered. That area by Union Jack is known for some rockfall from above (why most people don't go to the top of the cliff in that area), but still it was a bit shocking for sure.

Etha Williams wrote:

Thanks so much, Rob!

I'm guessing Longstack might be a better bet for dry-ish easy leads in southern NH tomorrow?

My pleasure! I'm a little bored at work if ya can't tell. Some will probably argue and maybe it was just too early in season, but Longstack rubbed me the wrong way. I didn't think it dried out for shit. Every climb I did was dirty, wet, and half overgrown. The protection was funky and I kept pulling ticks off me the whole day. If it was me and trad leading in SNH was my goal tomorrow, I would go to pway. Checkout "Lakeside Jam" on my way to hit up "Pete's Tree" and then go straight to the "Dome", then checkout whats good on the "Ridgeline" (cornered, finger crack, beginners).

Snowing at roughly 2000 ft and higher

Longstack is probably the fastest drying crag in the state. South facing, exposed and get the wind off the lake. Some really good fun climbs there, just have to like slabs and mantles haha.

Strychnine, winter classic, locals only, still gettin’ booty, gentle violence, the arete and coyote rain are all awesome climbs and usually dry. But even if it’s soaked, if the sun comes out it will be dry in like an hour or two. 

Ticks are everywhere, Ben’s 100 is the best to keep them, the black flies and mosquitoes at bay. Plus, deet is safe for your rope! 

Big and Wonderland Walls should mostly be fine - at least all the classics.  As should Hanta Yo and maybe Toltec Dream.  Ticks are all over Longstack; I've pulled off at least 3 each time I've been out past couple weeks.

Coyote Rain was named partly because it had rained the night before.  Last week there was one seep under the roof to the left and it was nowhere near the holds.

A family of ravens has settled in once again for the summer near the top of Strychnine - heads up.

Try Trifecta P1 if you like mantles.

Longstack could also use a good scrub, I keep forgetting to bring a brush to contribute when I'm there. 

Spirit guide / Tardis area needs it most.  I'll try and get a scrub in next afternoon I have off.

Anyone been up on the Pinnacle in Huntington yet this season?

Derek Ehrnschwender wrote: Anyone been up on the Pinnacle in Huntington yet this season?

Not sure but I seen snow up there yesterday. 

Still very snowy in the Presidentials. New snow earlier last week. The ridge may be clear and reasonably dry, but expect lots of snow on the approach. Winter is hanging on up there.

The Sherburne ski trail closed yesterday! Still hanging in there. 

Spotted falcon closure signs on cathedral ledge from the right side of the cathedral roof to just left of deidre. The posting has an expiration of August 1st.

If it's any consolation, I just got back from Red Rocks where I climbed most of the time in a heavy shirt and/or windbreaker with day temps in the 60-70's. [Normal this time of year is well into the 90's]   Overnight on the 27th-28th Mt Charleston got several inches of new snow down to what looked to be the 9000-10,000 ft level. Seems it's been super-cold in the Vegas area too.

 I heard Mammoth was planning to stay open through Aug. (but don't know if it's true) Mt Charleston was definitely still ski-able but the lifts weren't running.  

Hello, can anyone give me an update on Echo Crag? Thanks 

Echo is slow to dry, even in the best of springs which this one certainly isn't !

Artist's bluff gets more sun and more breezes, and far, far fewer trees and turf above it.  

John Stoneham wrote: Hello, can anyone give me an update on Echo Crag? Thanks 

Walked through there yesterday. Most climbs are still seeping, but there were plenty of people climbing. Depends on how much you like wet rock, I guess. Skeletal Ribs, Carpet Path, and Sleep In The Dry Spot all looked good. 

Artists Bluff was sunny and dry yesterday. Great climbing over there on Standard Route.

Anyone been up the easy leads (≈5.4-5.7) at P-way lately? Dryish? Likelihood of my belayer dropping me while swatting away black flies? ;)

Edit: Looks like rain tomorrow, a brief dry spell on Wed, and then more rain after...so...probably not the time.

Looking for some Conway area climbs that dry out nicely by the day after rain. Have done Funhouse-Upper Refuse which dry ok. Climb Longstack down here regularly. What about Endeavour at White's, or Cakewalk  or Robinson Crusoe at Humphrey's ? Any others?