How do you manage your ladders/daisies for free moves?
|
I have the Fish ladders and 6ft daisies which are so long, they get caught on everything when I try to free climb. When you're aiding and get to a free climbing section, what's the best and quickest way to tuck the ladders/daisies away so they don't catch around your knees and feet, but also then be reasonably easy to redeploy when it's time to switch back to aid? |
|
Clip em to the loops on the top of your double gear sling and throw them over your shoulder.. |
|
I've kept my ladders on separate ovals instead of the same locker as my daisys for a few walls, its been way better. |
|
For tiny bits of free climbing I use the shoulder chuck. For extended sections I fold/twist them up and clip them to the rear of my harness. |
|
I use Metolius etriers that have been cut down to four steps when climbing routes with lots of free and mixed combined. They fold and pack on the back of my harness easier and I try and stay in the top steps of my ladders as much as possible already. Recently I have even considered cutting a set down to three steps for this type of climbing. I also don't ever aid climb with daisies. They are a pain in the butt and slow things down always getting caught and tangled. Plus if you've ever fallen on one it doesn't feel great. Way faster without them. |
|
I usually don't use daisies, so that helps a lot. I often just deal with the clusterfuck dangling from my harness if it's just a few free moves. My run-out aiders came with a stuff sack to tuck them into quickly for free climbing. |
|
Bobby Mustard wrote: I've kept my ladders on separate ovals instead of the same locker as my daisys for a few walls, its been way better. Agree with you should not have your ladders and aiders on the same biner. If it's a single move then just throw everything over your shoulder, but if there's going to be some distance of free climbing then the following is going to be helpful afThere's no reason to leave your ladders behind though. If it's a single move then just throw everything over your shoulder, but if there's going to be some distance of free climbing then the following is going to be helpful af (or worse, a distance of freeclimbing followed by more aid) By adding a sling to the piece you're standing on and stepping in that sling, you can remove the ladder and have all the time you need to wrap up the ladders into a ball (clipping every other step into the biner) and put them behind you on the harness, take aiders and wrap them around your waist until they clip snuggly on one of the gear loops with no straps or loops hanging near your knees or feet, then you set off on the free climbing without having to worry about the effort spent unclipping and dealing with the ladder and daisy while holding onto freeclimbing holds with your hands and feet. As much as I hate most of Chris Mac's aid instruction, this is the one technique I picked up from him that I will be forever grateful for. Here's video of the process. |
|
are you from ST or something? who asks such inane questions on here? |
|
For those of you that don't use daisies, how do you connect to the jugs when it's time to follow? |
|
Greg Kommel wrote: For those of you that don't use daisies, how do you connect to the jugs when it's time to follow? Using daisies. We are saying we don't actually aid with daisies. I stay attached to my jugs using adjustable daisies when ascending the rope and they get tucked away when I am back on the rock. |
|
Feed the grab loop through the steps then clip it back to the carabiner. Unclip the grab loop from the carabiner to deploy. |
|
Nathan.H wrote: Feed the grab loop through the steps then clip it back to the carabiner. Unclip the grab loop from the carabiner to deploy. Pretty much what Nathan said. But, if you don't do it right, you can put some serious twists in the ladders which are kind of a bother to remove. I actually clip every other step, not every step. I learned this from a clinic taught by Libby Sauter. Here's a short blog post and a video of how to do it. alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to… |