Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

Alex (spellstrike) Palmiter wrote: youtu.be/zF9USNiV6Jw

Since it's called "The Up Part", I intuited that there might be a down part, which would probably be even worse. I checked his channel and was not disappointed:

This is actually the full this-person-has-no-business-doing-this experience: the climb, some walking around the top of the cliff, and the downclimb.

The only saving grace of this video is that you know he survived otherwise he couldn't have uploaded the video onto the internet.

I wonder where that is? It seems like there's some solid rock underneath all that choss, but it's also kind of an awkward height--a bit highball for bouldering and a bit short to bother roping up for.

Alex (spellstrike) Palmiter wrote: youtu.be/zF9USNiV6Jw

"inspired by Alex Honnold" pained me inside

Alex (spellstrike) Palmiter wrote: youtu.be/zF9USNiV6Jw

This has to be a very good troll, it ticks all the boxes. No one is that stupid to be "Inspired by Honnold"

Ross Goldberg wrote:

No one is that stupid to be "Inspired by Honnold"

Have you been outside?

Alex (spellstrike) Palmiter wrote: youtu.be/zF9USNiV6Jw

11/15/2019: All that remained was a pile of rocks, a desiccated carcass, and a dead gopro.

Alex (spellstrike) Palmiter wrote: youtu.be/zF9USNiV6Jw

Not really trad and not really not awesome so much as the dumbest choss climbing video I've ever seen.

David K wrote:

I wonder where that is? It seems like there's some solid rock underneath all that choss, but it's also kind of an awkward height--a bit highball for bouldering and a bit short to bother roping up for.

At least it's taller than most of the limestone in Austin, TX that is bolted....

I like this thread much more than the awesome videos thread, keep them coming!  Maybe I should get a GoPro so I can contribute....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OHikq7tCOg

Quality content right here, check out the green cam in the begging

Ross Goldberg wrote: youtube.com/watch?v=3OHikq7…

Quality content right here, check out the green cam in the begging

How about that mummy wrap hand tape?

Ross Goldberg wrote: youtube.com/watch?v=3OHikq7…

Quality content right here, check out the green cam in the begging

That is fucked 

Kids, don't try this at home.

Ross Goldberg wrote: youtube.com/watch?v=3OHikq7…

Quality content right here, check out the green cam in the begging

High adrenaline on The Open Book in 2006. 

Brad G wrote:

High adrenaline on The Open Book in 2006. 

Love the Jansport backpack and SPF 100 socks!

Matt B wrote:

Kids, don't try this at home.

When I’ve climbed with newer climbers and talked about cam placements Ive talked about this placement. It might hook the rock and hold that way?

It's called a passive placement, and some cams are rated for them.

In practice, I've never seen a place where a passively placed cam was a better option than an actively placed cam or a nut, including that screenshot. Spring force keeps an actively-placed cam in place better than a passively placed cam, and wedging keeps a passively-placed nut in place better than a passively placed cam.

David K wrote: It's called a passive placement, and some cams are rated for them.

In practice, I've never seen a place where a passively placed cam was a better option than an actively placed cam or a nut, including that screenshot. Spring force keeps an actively-placed cam in place better than a passively placed cam, and wedging keeps a passively-placed nut in place better than a passively placed cam.

That is a bad placement lol. 

David K wrote: It's called a passive placement, and some cams are rated for them.

In practice, I've never seen a place where a passively placed cam was a better option than an actively placed cam or a nut, including that screenshot. Spring force keeps an actively-placed cam in place better than a passively placed cam, and wedging keeps a passively-placed nut in place better than a passively placed cam.

Look at the picture again, the cam is in a downwards flare, textbook bad placement  and absolutely will rip on any sizeable fall and not work as a passive placement. Yes c4s are rated for passive placements but that is where there is a constriction downwards and/or outwards, this placement has neither.

This placement is bad, especially with better placements all around. 

Jesus, guys, did you read my post or did you just quote it and respond without reading it? I said that in practice passively placed cams are generally a bad idea, including that screenshot. I was replying to JonReg's asking "It might hook the rock and hold that way?" That's a passive placement. And yes, obviously it's a bad placement.

I suspect the person placing the cam didn't even intend to place it passively, so even if the cam would work as a passive placement, they don't get credit for it.

Anyone else get bugged by the incessant talking?  I've got a friend that'll yak the whole time he leads something and I always tell him the goal for the day is for him to climb quietly.  He can't ever comply.

Also, once again.....DIRECTION OF PULL!!!