Recommendations for first time in Tahquitz
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First time climbing in Tahquitz / on granite / on the West Coast. Coming from D.C. Any recommendations and comparisons of the various multipitch moderate routes (5.7 or below)? My frame of reference is Seneca Rocks, which is notoriously sandbagged. Is Tahquitz the same story?
Would you recommend picking up a guidebook (and if so, which one?), or is Mountain Project sufficient to find the routes and beta? And where can I find the best info on the friction descent? |
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A guidebook is almost always better than MP. https://www.amazon.com/Best-Climbs-Tahquitz-Suicide-Rocks/dp/0762780754 |
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Go to jtree. Those routes are good but I think there is a storm right now |
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FYI before it was called the YDS it was called the TDS (Tahquitz Decimal System) so technically there is no way the grades can be sandbagged ;-) |
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Angels Fright, but the others are good too. |
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I don't know how long you all will be out there, but you said 5.7 and below, so I'd be remiss if I didn't tell you to try Fingertrip. It's the original 5.7, and has a little bit of everything--lieback, great jams, airy traverse, fun roof moves. Do the left 5.4 slab finish for extra spice. For the friction descent, I highly recommend following someone down it the first time. Also a bit of a plug for P2 of El Whampo, probably the finest moderate, low-angle hand crack in Southern California. Upper pitches of El Whampo are also 5.7, but chossy. |
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If you climb at Senica.... you will have no problem. |
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Conway Yao wrote: Fingertrip (5.7) or Fingertip Traverse (5.4)? Fingertrip is a blast and would be my #1 off the list in terms of fun. After that I think I would pick Left Ski Track (but it's on the south face and you can really bake on a warm day.) The other climbs are in my opinion less fun / memorable. I think routefinding on WMW is more challenging than the other routes you listed (although still should be no problem if you're comfortable reading a topo) - if you do WMW I highly recommend the beautiful hand crack variation for p2. If you're climbing on a weekend you'll likely have no trouble finding the friction decent... Just follow everyone else. Also, if you're in doubt about the descent once on top, you can always play it safe by walking up to the summit and taking the longer but more obvious descent from there. ** Edit to say that the commenters above me are much more qualified to give advice so you should listen to them ;) -- they posted while I was typing. |
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Although some will say it's technically impossible for ratings at Tahquitz to be sandbags, the climbs are old school like Seneca. I'd say the two areas are comparable in difficulty for climbs of the same rating. |
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Here are some thoughts if you decide to climb in Idyllwild:
The Friction Descent is pretty easy to find if you know where to look. From the top of the Trough and Angel's Fright area, scramble straight up over low angle slabs and blocks (Class 2-3) following the path of least resistance. From the top of Left Ski Track, scramble up and right. Look for two large, garage-sized blocks with trees growing between them. Follow a path between these two blocks, then drop down behind them, moving through some trees. There's a 20 foot steep Class 3 section here. Zig-zag down ledges on the south face, generally trending skier's left (east). If you are doing anything more technical than walking and butt scooting with an occasional easy move, you've taken a wrong turn. If you can't find the Friction Descent, just scramble up to the top of the formation, gaining 400 feet or so at Class 3. Once at the top, continue scrambling towards the saddle formed by Tahquitz Rock and the mountain ridge. Follow the easiest terrain and look for ledge systems. Once you reach the saddle, scramble down the base of the south face of Tahqutiz over mostly Class 2 terrain. Buy the guidebook and bring it with you. |
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The Trough was my first trad multipitch and it's defiantly a good route to get your feet wet. I then moved on to Finger Tip traverse and then White Maidens Walkway. |
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no such thing as a sandbag - just fluffy grades
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Hey, one gem I missed for a while was Coffin Nail, which sounds terrifying. But is a completely, completely safe 5.8. I think there are 3 pitches, but the money 5.8 pitch is so, so nice--long arching hand to finger crack with rests and perfect gear. We linked it to Traitor horn by aiding/rapping a few feet as a link pitch. Flower of High Rank also awesome. The intimidating roof is very reasonable. |
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I just had my first trip to Tahquitz this weekend. Did trough Saturday; It was busy, so be prepared to pass less experienced parties and have faster parties pass you. The approach, climb, and descent the first day made a long day, so the second day we went to Suicide which has easier approach and walk-off trails and some good ~2 pitch routes for a 'down' day of climbing. |
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^^^^Catch all that Conway? All these fellas have pretty good info. |
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since no one has mentioned it- Jensen's Jaunt is a fun 5.6 it does require decent jamming technique and does have one semi-hanging belay, but its pretty fun and it'll give you a good view of traitor horn if you're feeling a little more adventurous |
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although there is a shit load of beta already spewed... and spewed... I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Red Rock Route. Look, if you're on the summit of Tahquitz, AND you can find the Red Rock Route, climb the damn thing. Pretty damn good for the grade. Then look behind you as you do, you will see a big, obvious rock that is kinda flat on top. That is the start of the Friction Descent... Oh, I know, this is scary, but You Can Do It!!! |
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Adios, Supertopo! wrote: I’m just going to come out and say it Locals only But if your going to come out at least buy a guidebook from Nomad...not amazon. |
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yea coffin nail to traitor horn is a fantastic linkup |
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ThomasR wrote: yea coffin nail to traitor horn is a fantastic linkup Imo (not worth anything) jam crack to piton to upper royal is better climbing for the grade |
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Conway Yao wrote: Any recommendations and comparisons of the various multipitch moderate routes (5.7 or below)? The OP asked for 5.7 or below. That rules out Coffin Nail, Traitor Horn and Whodunnit. |