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Just got word that Shawn Snyder is banned from Smith Rock State Park for 210 days!

The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 70
5.Seven Kevin wrote: Angst and hate filled replies from climbers from the nicest crag :^)

This websites too easy now, even tradiban is going to get bored at the rate you guys get triggered here.

You're a pretty unskilled troll. Tradiban and Burchy are at least proficient at trolling. 

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3
5.Seven Kevin wrote: Angst and hate filled replies from climbers from the nicest crag :^)

This websites too easy now, even tradiban is going to get bored at the rate you guys get triggered here.

Yeah, the butthurt in this thread is somewhere between comical and sad.

It almost makes me want to head out there and pick up where Shawn left off even though I don't like what he did. The MP righteous indignation makes it worth it.

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3
Brandon Fields wrote:

That is sacrilege.. I have 60lb of developing gear stashed at one of my crags because it’s insane to hike class 3-4 in and out with a 80lb pack and clean, climb and bolt for 8 hours repeatedly. Stealing developer’s gear as a climber is like burning down your own business. Or something. I don’t know, it’s horrible. Stealing draws is bad enough, but thwarting the people who spend all their money, time and energy to make these places climbable is a whole different level of wtf.

Well, that's some self-righteous screed right there. There still are people who believe that if you can't lead it on gear, you toprope it, and if you can't toprope it, you just leave it alone. But thanks for your help in turning the outdoor crags into climbing gyms!

The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 70
Chalk in the Wind wrote:

I'm pretty terrible at this trolling thing.

I agree with your statement.

Tim Lutz · · Colo-Rado Springs · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

Supertopo called and wants the 80s bolt wars back

Brandon Fields · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5
Chalk in the Wind wrote:

Well, that's some self-righteous screed right there. There still are people who believe that if you can't lead it on gear, you toprope it, and if you can't toprope it, you just leave it alone. But thanks for your help in turning the outdoor crags into climbing gyms!



You’re in a thread about Smith Rock. If you feel that way, you might be in the wrong thread.

Ryan Underwood · · Laguna Hills, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55
Tim Lutz wrote:

I agree. Want to go remove all the fixed lines on EL Cap?

Sure, as long as you're belay b*tch for the day.

rockhard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 75
Artful Dodger wrote: Some of the best routes at Smith go on gear. 

What reality do you live in?

Tim Lutz · · Colo-Rado Springs · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5
Ryan U. wrote:

Sure, as long as you're belay b*tch for the day.

Thats fine. But note that since we are rewinding the clock, I only hip belay for ethical reasons

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

The simple solution is to import aggressive Teton marmots to police the grounds at Smith.

Chuck Becker · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 50

As far as I can tell Shawn's a total hypocrite - when he was in the process of re-bolting Heinous Cling last fall I distinctly remember seeing his re-bolting kit left overnight at the lower anchor on the wall along with a fixed rope.

Chris Hatzai wrote:

as well as allowed by the State Park officials, saying it’s ok to leave gear up. 

Regarding project / fixed draws - is this in writing anywhere? It seems the official policy posted earlier says that climbing gear is only allowed to be left overnight if it's hidden, and that leaving in situ gear is prohibited. Is this just an unofficial verbal policy, or a policy everyone knows they don't really enforce?

Chris Hatzai · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,815
Chuck Becker wrote: As far as I can tell Shawn's a total hypocrite - when he was in the process of re-bolting Heinous Cling last fall I distinctly remember seeing his re-bolting kit left overnight at the lower anchor on the wall along with a fixed rope.

Regarding project / fixed draws - is this in writing anywhere? It seems the official policy posted earlier says that climbing gear is only allowed to be left overnight if it's hidden, and that leaving in situ gear is prohibited. Is this just an unofficial verbal policy, or a policy everyone knows they don't really enforce?

From what Ian Caldwell told me, any gear left on the walls is technically considered park property. Anything removed from the walls is then considered stealing from state property. Now obviously there is a lot of grey area with this and I think the park and park users know that it’s general ettiequte here that it’s ok to leave your gear  up while projecting a route or the routes that are fixed, theyre ok as well. 

It just really sucks that this little Smeagol needs to push it to this realm of overly bureaucratic black and white.
malnuboy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 60

I remember reading about this kid in another thread. I was just curious because I think in the other thread there was something about him leaving all the gear he took at a park kiosk or something to that effect, is that true? I'm not saying it's ok if that's what he did, I just couldn't remember.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669
malnuboy wrote: I remember reading about this kid

He's like 50. 

Sawyer W · · NH · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
Long Ranger wrote:

He's like 50. 


Act childish, get called a kid.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 146

Shawn has little room to talk. He left his slackline and setup standing out at Margaritaville in Apple Valley for over 2 years without taking it down.
Someone else finally did.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

I’m a new climber so help me out....In the trad world, ya leave gear on a route because you can’t climb and it’s free booty.   At Smith, you leave gear on the ground cuz ya can’t walk, but it’s not?

Got it.  
Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

your a new climber... SUAL

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
Marc801 C wrote: Yet acceptable at Smith. This magnified area of the image from up-thread:

I've never seen a "discreet manor."  Most are big, huge, gaudy affairs with gates, facades, outbuildings, that sort of thing.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

The “Discreet Manor” at Smith.  Allows entitled slackers to stash their ropes and slack lines so their parents don’t get on them to finish school and get a job...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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