Yet another bowline question...

Matt Himmelstein wrote:

A bowline is also a very helpful know to tie if you want to check if your partner actually checks your gear or just looks at you.  I have had many climbing partners look at my know and tell me I am good to go, when I know that they don't know how to check a bowline and thus did not do a real check.  Sometimes I call them out on it, sometimes I don't.

      So true!   Or they look at you, with a disgusted look, and say, "I have no fucking idea if that knot is right."  

I'm a firm believer in self-checks, which is a good thing, because no one I know can verify the bowline variant I use (and posted above) anyway.

Tradiban wrote: Blah, blah, blah. Tie whichever knot YOU are comfortable and confident with. It's YOUR ass.

Perhaps both climbers should be comfortable with it  The leader might not be too happy to see his second toppling off the stance especially while still attached to the belay device.  

i shore wrote:

Perhaps both climbers should be comfortable with it  The leader might not be too happy to see his second toppling off the stance especially while still attached to the belay device.  

As a belayor, aren't you in-direct?

If, say, you've clipped the rope to a master point and the knot at your harness comes undone while you're hanging back on it then you'd probably pull the leader off (actually if  you've locked him off you'll both be left dangling from the runners). If the belay device is clipped to the rope tie in loop and the knot slips undone then that's another problem.

Tradiban wrote: Blah, blah, blah. Tie whichever knot YOU are comfortable and confident with. It's YOUR ass.

I used to roll with bowline with yose finish WITH a double fish on the loop but with some stiff ropes it would still loosen up sometimes.

Check out the finish in rgold's post above yours, it should solve the problem you were having.

John Byrnes wrote:

      So true!   Or they look at you, with a disgusted look, and say, "I have no fucking idea if that knot is right."  

Those are the good partners, because they actually look at the knot.

pfwein wrote:

Check out the finish in rgold's post above yours, it should solve the problem you were having.

Yes. That's what I do PLUS a double fisherman's on the loop. Still will loosen on some ropes, but wouldn't untie.