Multi-pitch in Joshua Tree

Hey there,

Anyone have suggestions for the best multi-pitch in Josh? We climb moderates well and often get into the 5’10 range here in WNC. Definitely willing to get on anything from 5’6 to 5’10. 

Many thanks. 

Look up Saddle Rocks in Joshua tree on this site.  There are multiple multi-pitch climbs.

Few to note

Walk on the Wild Side
Desert Song(5.11d, didnt realize grade)
Right On

Right On (5.6 PG13 or R, depending on who you ask) is among the longest routes in the park, and can't be beaten among the long routes in terms of variation--slab, slammer hand jams, low-angle chimney, to 5.fun jug hauling near the top. Beyond that, Walk on the Wild Side (5.8) is also on Saddle Rock and is likewise a Josh classic. There's not too much more multi-pitch stuff beyond two-pitch stuff in the Wonderland of Rocks (Astro Domes and Lenticular Dome) and some traverse-y multi-pitch stuff such as Dappled Mare (5.8) and The Swift (5.7).

That being said, if you're out in Josh and actively/exclusively trying to get on multi-pitch stuff, then I'd recommend just driving to Tahquitz.

Definitely check out Lost Horse Wall.  Its home to The Swift 5.7, Dappled Mare 5.8, Bird on a Wire 5.10, and a couple others...   short approach, and all within a matter of feet from each other

Lost Horse may be a bit warm. Saddle Rocks and Astro Domes might be better suited if you're climbing now-ish.

Matt N wrote: Lost Horse may be a bit warm. Saddle Rocks and Astro Domes might be better suited if you're climbing now-ish.

Thanks, everyone. We plan on climbing in Josh for a few days and then heading to Tahquitz, so all your info should be great. Many thanks! 

Here are some suggestions for quality multi pitch at Josh:

SHADY ROUTES (afternoon shade)
    North Astro Dome:
          Figures on a Lanscape 5.10b 3 pitches
    South Astro Dome:
         Breakfast of Champions 5.8/9 2 pitches
         Solid Gold 5.10a/b 2 pitches
         My Laundry 5.9 2 pitches

SOME SHADE:

   Freak Bros Dome (early morning)
       I Can't Believe its a Girdle 5.10b 4 pitches

   Saddle Rocks (early morning shade)
        Santa Cruz 5.10a 2 pitches
        Right On 5.6 3 or 4 pitches
        Dial 911 5.10a 3 pitches
        Walk on the Wild Side 5.8 3 pitches

   Comic Book (early morning shade)
       Frontal Lobotomy 5.10a/b 1 or 2 pitches
       Full Frontal Nudity 5.10a 2 pitches
       Comic Book 5.10a 2 pitches

SOME EARLY MORNING SHADE
      Lost Horse Wall
         The Swift 5.7  3 pitches
         Bird on  Wire 5.9+  2/3 pitches
         Dapple Mare 5.8 2+ pitches

SUNNY ALL DAY (SPORT)
        Outer Mongolia
           Love Gas 5.10a 2 or 3 pitches
           Yasmine Bleath 5.10a 2 pitches
           Dos Chi Chis 5.10a 2 pitches
           Cross Roads Finish 5.8 2 pitches

Randy wrote: Here are some suggestions for quality multi pitch

Hope you're going to Joshua Tree soon. It's starting to warm up.

Wes Whitaker wrote: Thanks, everyone. We plan on climbing in Josh for a few days and then heading to Tahquitz, so all your info should be great. Many thanks! 

Pay attention to the road closures if you are headed to Tahquitz any time soon.  The winters did a number on the roads and I don't think you can get there from the 10.  Last I read, they were doing escorts around the construction coming out of Hemmet and there is a way to drive up through back roads you catch south of Hemmet, but I don't know the route.  I'm just waiting for the road to reopen.

If you're pushing higher into the 10's take one of @Randy's suggestion for Santa Cruz and piggyback with Where have all the Cowboy's Gone on Saddle Rocks.  These routes are shady.... could be perfect.  

A good list from Randy (though he wrote the guidebook).  I think Figures is the best multipitch route in the park.  Even though it's "only" .10b, I think it's fairly stiff for the rating.  Accurate, but old school.  

susan peplow wrote: If you're pushing higher into the 10's take one of @Randy's suggestion for Santa Cruz and piggyback with Where have all the Cowboy's Gone on Saddle Rocks.  These routes are shady.... could be perfect.  

Where Have All The Cowboys Gone is a great climb (though 5.10d). It and Santa Cruz share the same first pitch. You can, as Susan suggested, do the 2nd 5.10a pitch of Santa Cruz, then rap back down to the belay at the end of the first pitch. From here, you can then climb WHATCG. As stated, this part of Saddle Rocks faces north-west and stays in the shade more than the routes on the main west face slab.

Hobo Greg wrote: Damn if only there was a website with a feature that let you look for routes based on pitches.. 

Impossible with our current technologies, but I applaud your vision. :)

You don’t need a guidebook to go climbing

Again, thanks, everyone. You’ve been super helpful.