First Flatiron: Adding bolts at the p1 Tree

Found a couple new sets of anchors on my lunchtime climb of the direct. Greg was this you? Can't tell for sure, but it looks like you can rap with a 70m? Pictured is the anchor near the tree at the end of the first pitch. Also found another set of bolts at what I think is the top of the second pitch. Another party was on the route and seemed glad to have the anchor there.

Flatirons Climbing Council wrote:

There is a formal process for adding fixed hardware in the Flatirons and it is against the law to add bolts without a permit. 

Please do not add any rogue bolts. Reach out to the Flatirons Climbing Council or the OSMP rangers if you need some guidance

Wonder if those went through the FCC application process? 

ErikaNW wrote:

Wonder if those went through the FCC application process? 

I'm sure it's all legit. OK, show's over. Move along.

Weren't there yesterday morning... 

Michael Fober wrote: Found a couple new sets of anchors on my lunchtime climb of the direct. Greg was this you? Can't tell for sure, but it looks like you can rap with a 70m? Pictured is the anchor near the tree at the end of the first pitch. Also found another set of bolts at what I think is the top of the second pitch. Another party was on the route and seemed glad to have the anchor there.

Interesting! Where exactly are these? Do you have another photo that shows the position relative to the route?

^^^sexy biner. Who makes?

Looks like DMM Shield.

Post was deleted but it appears to have not gone through the application process? I for one think that is pretty crappy. I understand the argument for adding an anchor to preserve the tree, but sounds like there were multiple anchors added and you can now rap the route? Wonderful - I can just imagine the s**t show of people soloing and having ropes thrown down on top of them as well as up/down traffic on the route which is already super crowded.  

Pretty sure those are things the FCC would have taken into account when considering a proposal. Plenty of gear anchor options for the upper pitches as well - definitely did not need a convenience anchor for the 2nd pitch.

I hope the FCC weighs in on whether these anchors were approved or not, and if they plan to take any action on it.  

Has anyone else actually confirmed there are multiple new anchors? Not sure if a single photo from someone who has only made a single post is trustworthy or not.

Hey
I am with the FCC, and I can confirm that no applications were submitted and OSMP has issued no permits. 

I personally haven’t been up there to check, but a couple of people that have say they saw no new anchor.  It seems the photo is just a joke. 

OSMP would support an anchor if there was a chance it would save the tree.  We will discuss this at an upcoming meeting.  

I climbed it 2 days ago and there was no new anchor at all

Might I suggest painting the hangers or using TAN ones...

That bolt does not look newly placed from the photo. Shenanigans?

Guess I got trolled! Relieved it was a joke. Thanks Mark!

Michael Fober wrote: Found a couple new sets of anchors on my lunchtime climb of the direct. Greg was this you? Can't tell for sure, but it looks like you can rap with a 70m? Pictured is the anchor near the tree at the end of the first pitch. Also found another set of bolts at what I think is the top of the second pitch. Another party was on the route and seemed glad to have the anchor there.

Indeed - I think this might be a photo that I posted on the ACE facebook page a few years ago. Pretty sure that is my sling and 'biner.

Matt Pierce wrote: Might I suggest painting the hangers or using TAN ones...

Not really sure how to go about it, but it seems to me like one attractive option would be to install a monolithic eye bolt similar to the ones on the first pitch or on the third flatiron to keep with the character of the route. While beginners might get a little nervous about using a single piece anchor, I personally like the idea of keeping bulky modern belay anchors off the first to preserve the character and nature of the route. 

Jeremy Bauman wrote: Not really sure how to go about it, but it seems to me like one attractive option would be to install a monolithic eye bolt similar to the ones on the first pitch or on the third flatiron to keep with the character of the route. While beginners might get a little nervous about using a single piece anchor, I personally like the idea of keeping bulky modern belay anchors off the first to preserve the character and nature of the route. 

Fatty glue in ie 14mm nice and long and ur done. Jim Titt has them iirc.

Just an observation from climbing the first yesterday a couple times.

The tree note is doing absolutely nothing to stop people from using it as an anchor.

The first time I climbed it there was a party belaying directly off the tree and another party belaying on the ledge a few feet higher. (this may still be a problem if there are anchors added to the route as if there is a party already at the anchor other parties may be enticed to use the tree)

My second lap there was another party who were standing on the tree and had it girth hitched, but were belaying from an anchor above them.

Not sure what the solution should be, but that note seems to be doing little to nothing to dissuade parties from using the tree 

trice Rice wrote: Just an observation from climbing the first yesterday a couple times.

The tree note is doing absolutely nothing to stop people from using it as an anchor.

The first time I climbed it there was a party belaying directly off the tree and another party belaying on the ledge a few feet higher. (this may still be a problem if there are anchors added to the route as if there is a party already at the anchor other parties may be enticed to use the tree)

My second lap there was another party who were standing on the tree and had it girth hitched, but were belaying from an anchor above them.

Not sure what the solution should be, but that note seems to be doing little to nothing to dissuade parties from using the tree 

Its a process. People have to be educated over time.

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Its a process. People have to be educated over time.

I am not sure how much more educated you can get than reading a note saying, "do not belay from this tree as it is dying"

They read the note, became educated about their impact, then proceeded to still do exactly the opposite of what the note said.

I do not think the note is an effective strategy as people (especially new climbers who flock to the first) have a plan for their belay from the ground (the tree) and are not good at improvising when they realize they should not use it. They think, "well I was going to belay here and its not a huge impact if only I do it" and proceed to belay from the tree.

Maybe if there was a note at the base of the first pitch telling people to plan accordingly and not use the tree. Or instructions (i know it sounds ridiculous) on the note attached to the tree with an alternative gear anchor spot so that new climbers don't have to look themselves, but instead have instructions telling them where they can make an anchor.

Or there could just be a bolted belay a few feet higher on the decent ledge. When that anchor is being used parties would still use the tree ledge, but a bolted belay would severely decrease the number of people using the tree ledge.