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What did I climb in Cochise near The Wasteland?

Original Post
Jeff Deutsch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2007 · Points: 0

Was climbing The Wasteland and reached the top of the fourth pitch. From there we saw a line of bolts heading up and right. So rather than follow The Wasteland all the way back left and up, we got on the new route. At first I thought it was Fire Sermon, but I'm pretty sure we were right of Fire Sermon. What we climbed was right of the feature that is in the "crux corner of pitch four" photo in the Fire Sermon entry on MP. The route we climbed had two bolts protecting a steep crux. After that you pull around on to lower angle terrain and follow a line of about six more bolts up and left to the summit. The climbing at the crux was about 5.10c and the climbing on the lower angle terrain was not a gimme. I'd put it around 5.9 including a final bulge right before the belay bolts.

Just curious... what was I climbing?

wwwcochiseclimbing com · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 145

It sounds like you might have traversed farther right then the standard place to set up the belay for  the 4th pitch of The Waste Land. I always end up just chugging along slinging those chicken heads having fun so it is easy to miss the place to head back left to finish that route. If you started that final pitch from an anchor you were on Rickson's Pinnacle a 4 pitch 10+ with the final corner of Fire Sermon above you. The pitch you took was indead 5.10+ and a great way to enjoy that steep headwall finish. Way to go for it not knowing what it was. There are 13 routes on The Waste Land and because of the rock quality of that dome, every route gets a star. You can find them all in my East Side guidebook and hundreds more in that style of safe moderate routes. Tanya

Jeff Deutsch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2007 · Points: 0

Thanks for the info! Yup, Rickson's Pinnacle is definitely what we were on. I'd recommend it to anyone as a great finish to The Wasteland. Harder climbing at 10+ but bolts everywhere you need them.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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