Protecting Mt Whitney Mountaineer's Route - mid/late May

Hi all,

I have a multi-day permit for the Mountaineer's Route 20-22 May.

I will go prepared to protect the last section of the climb - i.e. a small alpine rack of rock pro and a rope.

However I understand that the route can be icy. I can't work out whether this is limited to verglas on the rocks or if the upper snow slopes themselves can be icy. Are there sections where ice screws could potentially be helpful? I haven't seen it mentioned so I assume not.

Background - I'm living in the UK and have some experience in Scottish winter climbing, European alps, and NZ (Southern) alps. However I haven't climbed in the Sierras before so any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Michael

Others will prob will add some solid advice as I've only been up in June.  But if I was headed up there and was thinking that I needed protection; maybe a couple of hexes or so and a 30-35m skinny rope....doubt it'll be super icy. Most likely snow. Sierra ice doesn't normally reveal itself until September after the snow has melted off and exposed the revitalized ice underneath.

This year, more snow has fallen than normal.

Michael Cawley wrote: 
I will go prepared to protect the last section of the climb - i.e. a small alpine rack of rock pro and a rope.

However I understand that the route can be icy. I can't work out whether this is limited to verglas on the rocks or if the upper snow slopes themselves can be icy. Are there sections where ice screws could potentially be helpful? I haven't seen it mentioned so I assume not.

howdy michael.  i've been up there in a decent variety of conditions (pow, windslab, melt-freeze, alpine ice) and have never seen the route in conditions that would justify bringing ice screws.  the one time i've brought a rope up there to belay a neophyte, i found plentiful opportunities for placing mid sized cams and slinging natural features. 

When you get to the top of the couloir there's a stuck C4 to your left. At least it was there a couple of years ago. So there's one piece you won't need.

Late April of an average year. Spikes were good enough for most parties, but plenty of options for rock pro or terrain belays.

I'm going the weekend before you and intend on doing the same.  No ice screws.  Maybe a picket, but I don't really like using those.  I know there are usually some rap anchors up top set up for 30M ropes.  I think last year there were 4 stations with the second one being super sketchy/not good.  Bring some tat to back up the existing material and you should be good for the way down.

Wonderful. Thank you all so much - I really appreciate the beta and the swift replies. Great info :)

Early welcome to America   

I did the mountaineers route mother days a few years back. Brought two 30m half ropes some nuts a picket anda couple screws. We didn’t use any of it just soloed with crampons and ice tools.

​Never really felt necessary but if you fall after the notch your going for a ride.