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Beginner Climber

Original Post
Krizzy Roberts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

I'm busy at work, absolute beginner in outdoor climbing, though I did one session of indoor climbing. I really enjoy the physical challenge, though I'm still working on my strength in the gym, and feel like I have a long way to go. Having share that, I'm planning to do outdoor climbing weekly or perhaps 2-3 times a month. Also, still gathering some stuff and browsing good areas to go.  Anyway, would really appreciate tips and advice for absolute beginner outdoor climber.

Wesley Neill · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 645

Mountain Project has a regional partner finder section of the forums. I would use that to find someone who is willing to climb with you outdoors. But first, be sure you are a competent lead belayer and have the minimal amount of gear (harness, shoes, maybe a few quick draws to start with). You don't want to show up with nothing and expect for everything to be provided, although some folks like me keep extra gear around in case someone needs it.

Some gyms have basic belay and lead climbing courses, if you don't already have those skills.

Most climbers are pretty nice so ask lots of questions here. Everybody wants to put in their two cents and sound smart (me included), so you'll get plenty of advice. Good luck!

Curt Haire · · leavenworth, wa · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1

in the Bad Old Days (talkin' 50 years ago), I'd have said find a copy of Freedom of the Hills (Seattle Mountaineers), and study it.  Basic Rock and Advanced Rock by Royal Robbins are excellent primers despite dating from the 1970s.  John Long's How To Rock Climb series is somewhat more modern (1990s) and encyclopedic.  Familiarizing yourself with some of these classics may help you distinguish between posers and potential mentors.   If you can follow written instructions, you may even be able to safely teach yourself the simplest aspects of belaying and anchoring (many of my generation survived this learning process, including many of the founding members of the AMGA).  Before the days of "belay tests" required at rock gyms by insurance companies, beginners routinely learned to belay by catching sandbags dropped from a top anchor.   To this day I remain convinced that the most effective way to learn to lead trad is to grab a pair of aiders and a trusted belayer, find yourself a straightforward crack, (better, several) and lead it on aid.   After a couple of pitches, you'll know more about placing gear than most climbers who've followed (and some who've led) trad for a season or more...

Soft Catch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

For beginning and even most intermediate outdoor climbing, you don't need to be strong.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

First off..... be smart!

To give some good sound advice to you it might help to know where you live.
Boulder CO or Omaha NE???

This place, and other places like this are special, if you’re lucky you might live close to one.

Stoney Point

climbing.com/videos/stoney-…;​​

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

Drop knees and flagging.  It's all in the feet.  Your hands will get tired fast, and you'll freeze, thinking you need to grip the rock differently, when you need to be looking at your feet and moving them.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194
Krizzy Roberts wrote: I'm busy at work, absolute beginner in outdoor climbing, though I did one session of indoor climbing... Having share that, I'm planning to do outdoor climbing weekly or perhaps 2-3 times a month. 

Are you going to go bouldering or are you planning on roping up?  Are you in an area where you can walk up to the top of a route and set up a TR, or do you have to lead?  Do you have friends that know wtf they are doing so you don't die and/or injure other people?

There are lots of climbers who figured it out along the way and survived early stupidity through dumb luck and are solid, safe climbers today.  There are also folks who were not lucky.  The best advice I can give is to make friends with folks who know what they are doing so you can learn the essential lifesaving techniques needed to stay safe.  You would not buy a parachute and jump out of a plane on your own or buy scuba gear and go diving without instruction.  Rock climbing outdoors can carry the same safety risks.

Scott Morrison 182 · · Alburtis, PA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 3
Curt Haire wrote: To this day I remain convinced that the most effective way to learn to lead trad is to grab a pair of aiders and a trusted belayer, find yourself a straightforward crack, (better, several) and lead it on aid.   After a couple of pitches, you'll know more about placing gear than most climbers who've followed (and some who've led) trad for a season or more...

Curt, im just getting into trad myself. Ive followed a few leaders. Purchased a full rack and do a lot of ground school. What's a good set of aiders to learn on? I don't plan on doing any big wall in the future so used and cheap is perfectly fine. I've seen this suggested before to 'weight' your gear to see how well you did with your placements. Thanks.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Krizzy Roberts wrote: I'm busy at work, absolute beginner in outdoor climbing, though I did one session of indoor climbing. 

Your climbing experience is one time, indoors? And never, outdoors?

Here's my tip for you:

Continue to climb, have fun and stay safe. Climb with experienced people.

Josh Lipko · · Charlotte · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10
Paul Hutton wrote: Drop knees and flagging.  It's all in the feet.  Your hands will get tired fast, and you'll freeze, thinking you need to grip the rock differently, when you need to be looking at your feet and moving them.

Yes use as many drop knees as you can on your second ever trip to gym, it will work splendidly.

Steve Marshall · · Concord NH · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45
Scott Morrison 182 wrote:

Curt, im just getting into trad myself. Ive followed a few leaders. Purchased a full rack and do a lot of ground school. What's a good set of aiders to learn on? I don't plan on doing any big wall in the future so used and cheap is perfectly fine. I've seen this suggested before to 'weight' your gear to see how well you did with your placements. Thanks.

then any pair would be fine. imo, ladders > etriers in terms of ease. used ones go up for sale on the forum pretty often. you can do it with slings if you hate yourself. bounce test every piece before you weight it, that's where the learning takes place. not hanging on it and having it blow.


to OP, i haven't seen it mentioned... learn how to lead-belay and get good at it, this will greatly open your options for people to bring you out. most folks don't want to spend a day setting topropes for a beginner, but if you can lead belay them then they can climb something they want to climb, and you can follow it and learn. then it is win-win. climbing is a partnership and if you can bring something to the table its much easier. trade your belaying in exchange for their teaching. otherwise it's just someone donating their free time to teach you. which isn't a bad thing, just not gonna happen as often.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Josh Lipko wrote:

Yes use as many drop knees as you can on your second ever trip to gym, it will work splendidly.

Ha ha. And focus on ringlocks. Very important for a rank beginner!

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 434
Krizzy Roberts wrote: Anyway, would really appreciate tips and advice for absolute beginner outdoor climber.

Avoid the Mountain Project forums, it's mostly trolls trolling trolls. The more often you climb the quicker you'll improve.

Jon Banks · · Longmont, CO · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 231

Just be safe and have fun. First figure out how to belay and set up top ropes. Get your safety systems down and then just climb a ton. As you climb more you'll get stronger.

For learning your systems, watch all the "Rock Climbing Basics" videos here
    and watch all of mike barter's videos here

The only technique video I ever watched was this one. It demonstrates a few fundamental techniques really well.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732
Jon Banks wrote: 
The only technique video I ever watched was this one. It demonstrates a few fundamental techniques really well.

Just make sure you do a minute of two of the warm-up shown in the video starting at 4:55.  It'll do wonders to generate some space around you and your partner in the gym.

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740
Josh Lipko wrote:

Yes use as many drop knees as you can on your second ever trip to gym, it will work splendidly.

Doesn't bother me one bit. You're actually insulting the OP HAHAHAHAAAA! Apparently, Krizzy, you possess absolutely no potential to use the drop knee to your advantage, but I believe in you! 

Layne Zuelke · · Baton Rouge, LA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30

Find a mentor. It’s the little details you may miss that’ll get you in trouble. An experienced partner will catch things you won’t and offer techniques you wouldn’t have thought of. Take a lead belay course. Most gyms offer them. Unless I saw you competently belaying someone I wouldn’t rope up banking on you ti catch me. I also wouldn’t take you out just to set up top ropes for you. Gain some proficiency in the gym and make some friends that will lead to outdoor excursions. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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