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Question about DMM offset stoppers

Original Post
Simon Hill · · Nevada City, CA · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 15

DMM makes offset stoppers in #7-#11 sizes. does this mean roughly speaking that they can be substituted in for #7-#11 walnuts (besides the offset flaring will they be generally the same size)

I'm considering buying walnuts for #1-#6 and Offsets for #7-#11, I just want to make sure i'm covered and that offset sizes aren't a separate standard in the DMM line or something. would hate to have my package arrive and have several nuts as roughly the same size as this will be my first rack that i'm buying.

I know black diamond sizes their offsets so that the #7-#11 can seamlessly substitute into their standard stoppers but I can seem to find a vendor selling a bundle of just the standards in #1-#6.

Thanks for any info

Andrew Child · · Corvallis, Or · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,553

The offsets are roughly the same size as standard nuts. It's worth noting that nuts size 1-4 are not rated for full strength. I have yet to find any useful placements for my nuts size 1-3 (I have used my brass nuts though).

Andrew S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 36

Get a set of the full wallnuts AND the offsets #7-11. You won't regret it.  For smaller offsets, I prefer brass but you can get those later

Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Skip the walnuts and get the largest three Peenuts. I pair these with a second set of of HB Brass Offsets 1-6 when I know it is going to be thin.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

I find the 7-11 offsets to be extremely versatile. I also really like the Peenuts. The 7-11 sizes are not LITERALLY the same as the Wallnuts. Nor are the BD offsets exactly the size of the BD regulars. But they're roughly the same range. I actually now carry a mix of BD and DMM offsets because they overlap nicely. And sometimes the big BD 12 and 13 if I need something like that. 

Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Also, I've doubled up on the two smallest offset sizes (booty) and find I place all four very often.

Andrew S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 36
Nodin deSaillan wrote: Also, I've doubled up on the two smallest offset sizes (booty) and find I place all four very often.

ditto.  I place the #7 pretty much every pitch

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Simon Hill wrote: DMM makes offset stoppers in #7-#11 sizes. does this mean roughly speaking that they can be substituted in for #7-#11 walnuts (besides the offset flaring will they be generally the same size)

I'm considering buying walnuts for #1-#6 and Offsets for #7-#11, I just want to make sure i'm covered and that offset sizes aren't a separate standard in the DMM line or something. would hate to have my package arrive and have several nuts as roughly the same size as this will be my first rack that i'm buying.

I know black diamond sizes their offsets so that the #7-#11 can seamlessly substitute into their standard stoppers but I can seem to find a vendor selling a bundle of just the standards in #1-#6.

Thanks for any info

I would get the wallnuts if you don't already have any nuts #3-#11. Then add in the offsets #7-#11 and the peenuts at the bottom end #1-#5. That way you have almost a double rack, but the nuts will fit in various crack sizes.

I think it is personal preference, but I really like the offsets in the larger sizes. They fit flaring crack and pin scars better than a stopper or rock.

Spencer Ringwood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

DMM offsets in sizes 7, 8 and 9 correspond to Wallnuts size 4, 5 and 6 respectively. The larger side of the offset nuts have similar dimensions to the Walnuts before they taper.

There are some placements where the offsets won’t fit as well as the walnuts, but the offsets are more versatile in where they can be placed. You should be fine with just the offsets for starts and maybe consider adding doubles of wallnuts in sizes you place often. They are really nice to use and wedge in really well, and the relief cuts work better than the wallnuts too.

Simon Hill · · Nevada City, CA · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 15

Didn't realize the DMM website lists crack size ranges for all their nuts, apparently the Offset #7-#11 are smaller than the walnuts #7-#11 so probably not ideal to substitute them if trying to build a full rack.

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114
Simon Hill wrote: DMM makes offset stoppers in #7-#11 sizes. does this mean roughly speaking that they can be substituted in for #7-#11 walnuts (besides the offset flaring will they be generally the same size)

No, the offsets have are off in numbering by +3.  (IE. #11 offset = #8 walnut).

Alex Milton · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

I'm gonna throw in another vote for getting the standard set of wallnuts with the offsets as doubles. They're cheap, you'll place them, a lot. That #7 offset will make you forget about those finger size cams you can't afford.

But I climb basalt so ymmv

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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