Petal Attache screw gate locked

Jeffrey Constine wrote: I collect bail gear after the weekends from the bailers,  heading out now for more free gear, have a nice day. 

I'm reading this as, "I don't try anything outside my comfort zone." :p

Non-screwgate user enters thread about screwgates to espouse non-screwgate use.  Then posts selfie.  Kewl!!

David K wrote:

I'm reading this as, "I don't try anything outside my comfort zone." :p

I'm reading this as "another Gunks noob" talking shit on the internet.

FWIW, if this problem only occurs on new gates it may be due to the threads not being chased (cleaned) completely during the manufacturing process.  A small bit of metal from the machining could easily weld a threaded joint closed, especially if overtightened; Type of metal(s) plays a factor as well.

As others said, don’t overtighten, also slowly working gates open/closed when purchased could help naturally clean the threads.

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

I'm reading this as "another Gunks noob" talking shit on the internet.

Guilty as charged! I see you've found your reading glasses. :p

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

I'm reading this as "another Gunks noob" talking shit on the internet.

 Looks like that guy is the one who never climbs out of his comfort zone Boon.  David TR K 

David K wrote:

Guilty as charged! I see you've found your reading glasses. :p

Dude: There is ample pictorial evidence of Jeffries climbing prowess right here on MP, and the covers of guidebooks and climbing magazines etc. I don't think you should be commenting, other that to say " In the Gunks this would be rated..."

Man, not a lot of sense of humor here. Y'all are way too serious. This started with Jeffries bragging about how he never bails. If that's not funny I don't know what is.

I'm not actually trying to insult anyone, just poking a little fun. Given it seems like he's actually as big as his swagger, he can handle it.

I use reading glasses to see the holds, To pull down on, David;).
Good point Buck!

Jeffrey Constine wrote: I use reading glasses to see the holds  you could pull up on, David;)

You're supposed to pull down on the holds, Jeffrey. ;)

So I have my stash of old round stock Attaché's, Currently sit at 2 unused and another two in service. But I may have a new favorite.

At Xmas my elderly mother gave me a REI gift card (bless her heart) and I buy some assorted gear that was on sale, which included a DMM locking biner. I swear that thing has ball bearing in it. It is called a Rhino, and it has a nice radius for rapping, but has a horn on it to prevent a grigri from sliding down the spine and cross loading. Neat piece of kit.

Buck Rio wrote: So I have my stash of old round stock Attaché's, Currently sit at 2 unused and another two in service. But I may have a new favorite.

At Xmas my elderly mother gave me a REI gift card (bless her heart) and I buy some assorted gear that was on sale, which included a DMM locking biner. I swear that thing has ball bearing in it. It is called a Rhino, and it has a nice radius for rapping, but has a horn on it to prevent a grigri from sliding down the spine and cross loading. Neat piece of kit.

+1 for this, the Rhinos in the Red "Kwiklock" variation are my favorite belay biners.

Buck Rio wrote:but has a horn on it to prevent a grigri from sliding down the spine and cross loading. Neat piece of kit.

Don't believe the marketing hype. I actually bought two of them specifically to use with my Grigris (one stays in my gym bag and the other stays in my crag pack). However, more than once the Rhino has gotten into a weird position when I'm holding someone with the Grigri, the top of the gate would catch on my belay loop and the Grigri would be located right at the "horn". It's not exactly crossloading, but it definitely doesn't load the Rhino along its major axis (I can post a picture if anyone has trouble visualize this). Initially I thought this was caused by a skinny belay loop on a lightweight harness, but then when I switched to a harness with a wider belay loop it still happens.

Other than that they are good biners, but it kind of pissed me off since these biners are supposedly designed for Grigris.

I use this. 

aikibujin wrote: [...] these biners are supposedly designed for Grigris.

Citation for this? Stranger things have happened, but I'd be a bit surprised if DMM designed a biner to be compatible with their competitor's belay device.

Jeffrey Constine wrote:

I use this. 

Tried one of those, didn't like it.  For starters it's just a twist lock rather than a triple lock.  Secondly I just didn't find the second half useful.  If I'm worried about cross loading I'd just use any other biner with a bd gridlock style design.  Besides this is all irrelevant to the thread lol.

Cross loading is not a thing.

Cross loading is not an issue lol  it’s funny how people worry about that. Yur not gonna break a carabiner  in my 40 years of climbing I have never seen it happen and I climb a lot. Ahh the new generation of climbers ;)

Jeffrey Constine wrote: Cross loading is not an issue lol  it’s funny how people worry about that. Yur not gonna break a carabiner  in my 40 years of climbing I have never seen it happen and I climb a lot. Ahh the new generation of climbers ;)

It has never happened. The cross-loaded rating for a modern locker is equal to a FF2 impact with a test dummy. You can't break a locker with a human being no matter how you load it. Its just not a thing.

Petzl Am'D twist lock is ideal for a gri-gri for my climbing. Handling with a gri-gri is ideal. That Freino is heavy and spendy but I can see the appeal for lowering or rapping.

Gratx, Sheeple, you are buying things from the gear makers that even THEY know you don't need. Who knew?

You can't break a locker with a human being no matter how you load it. Its just not a thing.

Sure you can. It's very unlikely that it can happen with a purely cross-loaded carabiner, but you can break lockers by nose-hooking them or levering the gate (even when fully locked) against an object. Is it likely to happen to your belay carabiner? No, and it's not worth worrying about in that situation, but locking carabiners can certainly break with climbing loads when subjected to misuse.