"You may climb on my gear..."

This is a first - was at a crag, set up route for TR, left most of the draws on it. My climber wanted to do another TR burn after she was done, I told the party waiting in line to use my gear for leading, even my rope. We come back 15-20min later, see another set of draws hanging on the wall - two quickdraws on each hanger. 
I got curious - it is somewhat easier to ask than arrive to interesting conclusions on your own. Apparently, some experienced climbers who taught them said never to climb on anyone else's gear.
Even though it is generally possible to clip two draws on a single hanger, it is not a safe practice - free movement of bolt side carabiner is inhibited, weird cross-loading may be possible. If you feel compelled to use your own gear, remove the other draw after you clip yours. 

PSA - if someone tells you to climb on their gear at a sport crag, it is OK to do so. As a matter of fact, on a busy line it is considered good karma to allow people to step in for burns on your gear while you are resting.

Getting the popcorn.......

Unless your draws were bleached white from the sun I would have no issue climbing on them.   I climb with lots of different people and climb on their gear all the time.  Putting two draws on each hanger is pretty sketchy and like you said can cause some strange loading issues.   If I were concerned I would just move on to another route. 

Jeez, screw up my matching colorways? Like what peasant would ever climb on someone else's draws if they don't match their PAS.

MICROFRACTURES!  CATPEE!  UNAPPROVED SHARPIE MARKS ON THE ROPE!

Maybe they wanted a redpoint and not a pinkpoint?

Redundancy brah redundancy 

Sloppy Second wrote: Maybe they wanted a redpoint and not a pinkpoint?

BITD, this was accomplished on the fly by removing the hanging draws as you reached each one and clipping each to one’s harness. Then hanging the same draw again and clipping into It. 

Talk about pointless. 

amarius wrote: Apparently, some experienced climbers who taught them said never to climb on anyone else's gear.

Sounds like they need more experience. By logical extension: never clip bolts you haven't personally placed. Oh brutha'.

Two 'biners on a single hanger are OK for anchors for relatively static needs but I wouldn't make a practice of it on pro bolts along a pitch. The exception would be a very dangerous/deathly run-out with only one bolt between climber and the great beyond. Some carry a draw or two rigged with locking 'biners for such critical bolts/gear placements - peace of mind! But if needing to clip two 'biners into a single hanger for whatever reason, preferable to clip in such a way so as to have the lower 'biner (on a shorter draw, gate flipped upside down) on the hanger to bear the weight.

beginner climbers + instructions given/taken in absolutes = funny things happening.

On the other hand, this does bring to mind that accident in which a young Italian climber suffered a fatal ground fall because some random non-climber had assembled the quickdraws incorrectly, with only the rubber retainer connecting the dog-bone to the rope-side biner.

Eli W wrote: On the other hand, this does bring to mind that accident in which a young Italian climber suffered a fatal ground fall because some random non-climber had assembled the quickdraws incorrectly, with only the rubber retainer connecting the dog-bone to the rope-side biner.

I was thinking of this same incident. If nothing else, it's a good idea to give a good eyeballing to other people's gear that you are using.

Eli W wrote: On the other hand, this does bring to mind that accident in which a young Italian climber suffered a fatal ground fall because some random non-climber had assembled the quickdraws incorrectly, with only the rubber retainer connecting the dog-bone to the rope-side biner.

Yes, I thought of Tito Traversa, too. :(

There is always an assumption of risk when using someone else’s gear, sure... but realistically and practically the risk is very small. It is a good idea to inspect the gear you are using, obviously.

But the point here is, if you choose not to take this risk, make sure your “solution” to the potential danger/safety issue isn’t something more dangerous than the issue you are trying to avoid, in the first place. 

Eli W wrote: On the other hand, this does bring to mind that accident in which a young Italian climber suffered a fatal ground fall because some random non-climber had assembled the quickdraws incorrectly, with only the rubber retainer connecting the dog-bone to the rope-side biner.

Not even close to the same situation as the OP.

I am going to quote myself, myself:
If you feel compelled to use your own gear, remove the other draw after you clip yours.

amarius wrote: This is a first - was at a crag, set up route for TR, left most of the draws on it. My climber wanted to do another TR burn after she was done, I told the party waiting in line to use my gear for leading, even my rope. We come back 15-20min later, see another set of draws hanging on the wall - two quickdraws on each hanger. 
I got curious - it is somewhat easier to ask than arrive to interesting conclusions on your own. Apparently, some experienced climbers who taught them said never to climb on anyone else's gear.
Even though it is generally possible to clip two draws on a single hanger, it is not a safe practice - free movement of bolt side carabiner is inhibited, weird cross-loading may be possible. If you feel compelled to use your own gear, remove the other draw after you clip yours.

PSA - if someone tells you to climb on their gear at a sport crag, it is OK to do so. As a matter of fact, on a busy line it is considered good karma to allow people to step in for burns on you gear while you are resting.

Wait.  So, you lead the route, then your partner TR'd it, then you were going to rest, then TR it again at a busy crag...and you left your  draws on it for why?

Greg D wrote:

Wait.  So, you lead the route, then your partner TR'd it, then you were going to rest, then TR it again at a busy crag...and you left your  draws on it for why?

They were being polite. Amarius and co wanted to rest for another TR burn, so they let the other party rotate in, using amarius and co's rope so they could then leave the rope back up for their TR. Least that's what it sounds like to me. 

Really not that uncommon of a thing at a busy crag. Politeness. Less cleaning and rehanging draws=more climbing time for everyone. 

Greg D wrote:

Wait.  So, you lead the route, then your partner TR'd it, then you were going to rest, then TR it again at a busy crag...and you left your  draws on it for why?

My partner wanted to TR it again in 15-20min. I decided that letting other parties in was a more courteous move - I left the gear and rope on this route specifically to make it easier for other climbers to get their rotations in, be it TR or lead. And yes, once we got back, the other party was done with their lead  - in my opinion no time was wasted. 

And if it's steep/overhanging, leaving the draws on and clipping the rope through them, makes it a more reasonable TR.

You guys are over thinking this stuff.

Just climb it!

... just how many times you guys fall on a placement before you retire in shame?  I once was ridiculed for not just going home after three falls off an overhang in Sabino Canyon.

WHAT?  You people just MURDER the climbs with unending physical assaults all day long?

Some days you should try smile and admit that it beat you.  Go amuse yourself on something else and stop being so mental and obsessed. Pull your gear.  Quit greasing up the holds.

amarius wrote: PSA - if someone tells you to climb on their gear at a sport crag, it is OK to do so. As a matter of fact, on a busy line it is considered good karma to allow people to step in for burns on you gear while you are resting.

"You may climb on my gear".  Sure, it's a nice offer, but unless I know you - or am comfortable making a decision in the moment - I would very much prefer not to.

I don't understand how we can collectively ridicule "just bomber gear" and obscenely terrible TR anchors, but at the same time take at face value another party's invitation to climb on their gear because it's clearly ok.

Two draws in one hangar is admittedly taking things too far, but so is the blanket declaration that "it's OK to do so".