New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #6

Jeffrey Constine wrote:  The hardest poodle route I have done is called Igor prince of poodles 11cR

EXACTLY.  You can take care of the hard Poodle routes, for humanity.  I’ll do my part.   

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Two thoughts:  Thank you Jeff for the reminder that it’s all about footwork. I want to get this right. Today I worked on 5.7-5.9 slab...just trying to understand and feel the delicate foot placements and read the rock, before moving on to harder routes. I’m REALLY feeling it this trip...placing a foot, trusting it, committing. I’m sticking to stuff I would never have believed would hold.
Anyone... it’s supposed to rain tomorrow. I’m totally game but wondering if here that includes the possibility of lightning. (Ie danger) Can you climb in Josh storms?

I’m not climbing in Josh in the rain wind can be just a bad. Happy you are having fun!

Lori Milas wrote:

Anyone... it’s supposed to rain tomorrow. I’m totally game but wondering if here that includes the possibility of lightning. (Ie danger) Can you climb in Josh storms?

Never climb in the rain. Unless you're after that first epic..... ;)

Lori Milas wrote:

 For instance I have as a goal climbing all the Poodle climbs in Joshua Tree.  (All the climbs with the word Poodle in the name).   

A worthy goal. Some are real gems, others ... maybe not so much.  Still, a fun project.

Not sure anyone has done them all (maybe Chris Miller or Todd Gordon has).

And, yes, I'm sure Hillary Clinton was referencing Poodle Routes, just like Nancy Reagan was warning us to stay away from certain grainy pile routes with "Just Say No."

Well this week has been all about cracks so far...toe, foot, hand and fist.  And finger below.  They are flowing now...with ease. This was a 5.9 and I was so absorbed in the rhythm of climbing I forgot to even notice the crux moves.  

Figures, In Las Vegas, work, chores, repairs, finally get everything caught up and ready to go climb, it rains.

So far only 1/4 inch.  I'll call Desert Rock climbing store tomorrow to check with the locals to see if they would climb, but I am thinking we will have to wait a day.  

OldTradGuy stopped by yesterday to say hello, he has a really cool dirt-baggers van, light and fast.  The woodwork in the ceiling is amazing.

In search of climbing partner/s.  My regular partner is on the disabled list, and wont be back to climbing until July.  Trips to Kalymnos, Isle of Skye and Wales have been booked and paid for in May and June.  So I'm going, solo if necessary but hoping to find another adventurer.  PM me if interested.  I'm experienced, safe and will have all the gear required.

Lori Milas wrote:

Well I have been thinking about this problem of difficult climbs and I think it should be a community project.  For instance I have as a goal climbing all the Poodle climbs in Joshua Tree.  (All the climbs with the word Poodle in the name).  The problem is...some of those climbs are 5.11 and up. So it just seems to me that as a community of climbers we could knock this one out as a group.   ”Some” very selfish people could come and send the hard Poodle routes, if only they would...and some of us could tackle the easier Poodle routes—voila it makes a whole. You know “It takes a village”. Or maybe you don’t know because you are in Australia and haven’t read Hillary Clinton’s book. Pretty sure she was talking about sending all the Poodle routes. 

We can read books in Australia, we just hold them upside down... :-)

I generally hate cracks (I see you've been doing heaps).

I onsighted a nice slab on the weekend, 'Triad' grade 19, just on top rope.  It has pretty much no protection.  It was actually established as a free solo.  I used to solo some (easy) stuff but don't have any desire to anymore.

I had another wonderful day with Chris. I finally feel like I can begin the journey of crack climbing—they make sense now, I’m learning something about feeling a jam. And slab.  But just as cool is to begin to get used to hanging out at heights. Feels totally ok...for awhile.   

Gratitude. It’s my main thought these days.

I was going to put off buying a rack. I so don’t want to be a poser. And it’s a big expense. But I won’t learn to use what I don’t have. So... we compromised with (I believe) a half rack: a single set of cams, not Ultralights along with everything else. I think that works for now.  

I am amazed at the intimate knowledge veteran climbers have of their gear and terrain. I bought a cord specifically labeled for an autoblock. Instantly Bob and Chris knew it was a few inches too long to be an autoblock. I now have the proper length.

I’m still overwhelmed watching these guys work with ropes and cordalletes, and the number of steps involved in setting up anchors, rappells, extensions, it’s just in their DNA now. I need it to be in mine. (Will it ever be?)

I’m also looking for women climbers because I think we use our bodies differently.

Meanwhile my new little heartthrob Jeremy turns out to be an excellent skateboarder.  I can’t say why these kids brighten my days so.  It’s just joy, play...deep health.

Carl TRing does not count for on sight Because you rap  down the face to set it up you got to look at it. More like you climbed on tr lol.

Lol, Lori! I'm off shopping this morning to add to a rack that I may never ​lead with. But? If I'm climbing with guests? You bet I want us to have what they want, and plenty of it, when they're rope gunning for me!

As to our affinity for the "kids"? I can't speak for you, Lori, but my heart just sings when I'm in with my "tribe". That 19 year old is still there.

Yes, women climb differently. Watch in the boulder part of your gym. That's where beta gets swapped, people are trying all sorts of moves, and you can quickly see how differently the same route gets done by mere humans. My all time favorite example was a pair of identical twins. These ladies each climbed in their own style, with body size and shape as matched as it could possibly be.

EDIT to add:

https://youtu.be/u7cZFXxfiO4

Check out this local boulder comp. Warning, the finals are pro climbers, and folks at that level! Matt Fultz is in his 20s, Oscar is in his teens (and an awesome kid). Pretty sure the lady with two braids is very young teen also. 

Best, Helen

Jeffrey Constine wrote: Carl TRing does not count for on sight Because you rap  down the face to set it up you got to look at it. More like you climbed on tr lol.

From Dictionary.com

wet-blanket

[wet-blang-kit]
|verb (used with object)

1. to extinguish (a fire) with a wet blanket.  

2. to dampen the enthusiasm or enjoyment of (person, group, etc.).   
   
   

Jeffrey Constine wrote: Carl TRing does not count for on sight Because you rap  down the face to set it up you got to look at it. More like you climbed on tr lol.

It does if he downclimbs it!  

FrankPS wrote:

From Dictionary.com

wet-blanket

[wet-blang-kit]
|verb (used with object)

1. to extinguish (a fire) with a wet blanket.  

2. to dampen the enthusiasm or enjoyment of (person, group, etc.).   
   
   

Frank.... I think it is best when we use climbing lingo properly. 

Jess saying 
Lori keep it up. I find your take on climbing and climbers refreshing. It’s good to develop a “yout” possie.... like these. I drive, cook, show the way, score the beer and they do the heavy lifting, get the rope up and carry all of my gear. Fair exchange. 
And Dallas...... if you thought about your destinations more you would avoid sandstone spots in winter and go to southern granite spots like Cochise, The Lemon, Alabama Hills, Kernville or NJC... all have free RV camping and dry out as soon as the rain stops. 
Carry on 

Get the rope up.

Cowboy Breakfast

Jeffrey Constine wrote: Carl TRing does not count for on sight Because you rap  down the face to set it up you got to look at it. More like you climbed on tr lol.

Just a question, okay? 

What if you hiked up to set up the top rope? Or, some one else has a rope up, and offers you a shot? The last assumes I'm not there, and/or not paying any attention.

Thanks! For the record, take my tick list on here with a huge grain of salt. I'm always straight with partners about my abilities(and lack thereof). My ticklist is how I remember the ones that mattered to me. Usually? Because the people are special.

Like today. Climbing shortly, I really hope it goes well. I've got my best friend getting me out, back on the horse, so to speak.

Best, Helen

Old lady H wrote:

Just a question, okay? 

What if you hiked up to set up the top rope? Or, some one else has a rope up, and offers you a shot? The last assumes I'm not there, and/or not paying any attention.

Thanks! For the record, take my tick list on here with a huge grain of salt. I'm always straight with partners about my abilities(and lack thereof). My ticklist is how I remember the ones that mattered to me. Usually? Because the people are special.

Like today. Climbing shortly, I really hope it goes well. I've got my best friend getting me out, back on the horse, so to speak.

Best, Helen

The terms, "onsight," "flash" and "redpoint" all apply to leading, only. There has been a fun, mocking term invented called the "TRonsight," for toproping.

Of course you can do anything you want

But that said especially in certain historical places  
The definition of  ~ "onsight"~  must be retained !    It has to Be ground up,  (with (minimal)  cleaning on lead ) seeing the challenges as they appear
To be a free first ascent,no hanging or wieghting any gear, or rope.
 Placing gear off hooks?  has been acceptable in some cases, for hand drilling,  but it is a matter of purity, is anyone pure?
  . This is black & white,

And I'm late to pick up the high school kids, be bax to adjust this

Suburban.... remember this. If you hang on hooks to drill the bolts you have done the FA. To claim the root as free one must turn around and lead that sucker- then you get to name it, grade it and go proudly post it’s existence on MP, to get the points.

Let’s keep this stuff clear.