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Eagle Mount
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Mar 10, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2019
· Points: 0
Hello guys, there are some situations, when routes have 7 bolts, but we have 6 quickdraws, so I want to hear your opinion about it, to make a quickdraw with one sling and two locking carabiners, is it a safe or it will cause damage carabiners or something else?
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Kyle Taylor
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Mar 10, 2019
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Broomfield CO
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 0
I would just buy more quickdraws. You’ll typically see biners and slings used as alpine style draws- I’ll use this method for routes that have overhangs or slabby ledges to avoid rope drag when lowering, etc. I don’t use locking biners tho-
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Gunkiemike
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Mar 10, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,717
I'm curious what sort of damage you think could possibly occur. A draw is really just a short (stiffened) sling and two biners. Do you worry about that?
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Nathan
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Mar 10, 2019
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Tel Aviv
· Joined Mar 2015
· Points: 170
If you had a sling and two biners, you should have counted it in with your number of draws.
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Eagle Mount
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Mar 10, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2019
· Points: 0
and is it possible to change slim with a piece of climbing rope? to make a quickdraw with two carabiners and small lenght climbing rope
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Tyler McClure
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Mar 10, 2019
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Brookline, NH
· Joined Oct 2018
· Points: 315
Eagle Mount wrote: and is it possible to change slim with a piece of climbing rope? to make a quickdraw with two carabiners and small lenght climbing rope Wouldn't use climbing rope as its dynamic and bulky. A static cord tied together correctly could work a in a pinch, but seriously... Your life isn't worth it, just go buy more draws or a couple of slings and carabiners. thank me later..
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Matt Wetmore
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Mar 10, 2019
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Traveling
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 565
Tyler McClure wrote: Wouldn't use climbing rope as its dynamic and bulky. A static cord tied together correctly could work a in a pinch, but seriously... Your life isn't worth it, just go buy more draws or a couple of slings and carabiners. thank me later.. The amount of stretch in a few inches of climbing rope is negligible.
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Brandon Fields
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Mar 10, 2019
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Apr 2016
· Points: 5
It's perfectly fine. If you have certed slings and biners, rack em up. The differences between that and QD's is primarily handling and cosmetic differences. Now, obviously don't fully extend a 48 inch sling as your first clip, but that should just be common sense.
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Brandon Fields
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Mar 10, 2019
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Apr 2016
· Points: 5
Eagle Mount wrote: and is it possible to change slim with a piece of climbing rope? to make a quickdraw with two carabiners and small lenght climbing rope This one is dependent on the rope type, condition, diameter and your ability to tie knots properly. The short answer is: if you are asking this question, you shouldn't do that. You'll have no need to ask questions on here when you're ready to build your own pro out of scrap. The only reason (almost) anyone would want to do this is in an emergency when they need to extend an anchor for fear of rope damage and they have no other options. Just cough up $10 for another draw.
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Eagle Mount
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Mar 10, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2019
· Points: 0
thank you guys for comments, it is always good to get more information about gear and safety.
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Tradiban
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Mar 10, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
Just clip a biner to the hanger. Duh.
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FrankPS
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Mar 10, 2019
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
Eagle Mount wrote: and is it possible to change slim with a piece of climbing rope? to make a quickdraw with two carabiners and small lenght climbing rope What the heck does "change slim" mean? Edit: Are you really asking if you can make a quickdraw with a piece of rope? I am flabbergasted and aghast. All at the same time.
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Anonymous User
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Mar 10, 2019
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San Diego, CA
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 30
It would be fine, the carabiners don't even need to lock. You can also back clean too, sometimes the bolts are spaced so closely together you can clip the next draw and reach down to the previous one with no down climbing. Or run it out.
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Robert S
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Mar 10, 2019
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Driftwood, TX
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 662
I'm calling troll, but in case this is real-- if you find yourself in this situation, lower and then clean the first or second draw; they're not doing anything at that point, anyway. Yeah, it'll arguably cost you the precious onsight and bragging rights at the bar later, but whatever.
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Tyler McClure
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Mar 10, 2019
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Brookline, NH
· Joined Oct 2018
· Points: 315
Robert S wrote: I'm calling troll, but in case this is real-- if you find yourself in this situation, lower and then clean the first or second draw; they're not doing anything at that point, anyway. Yeah, it'll arguably cost you the precious onsight and bragging rights at the bar later, but whatever. Had to do this a couple weeks ago. If you down climb and not get lowered, I would argue that it has even more bragging rights..
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Travis Bieber
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Mar 10, 2019
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Fort Collins
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 1,728
For real buy more quickdraws.
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Curt Haire
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Mar 10, 2019
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leavenworth, wa
· Joined Jun 2011
· Points: 1
why anyone buys pre-manufactured quickdraws mystifies me. more money than brains, I guess. an open sling, whether sewn or tied, completely eliminates the "back-clip" issue because a soft, open sling does not hold the rope-end carabiner in a fixed position. the carabiner rotates under tension to face the "correct" direction. a knot, almost always a double-fishermans, acts as a shock-absorber. tests by the UiAA indicate that thirty-percent of the impact force of a fall, on average, is absorbed in the tightening of knots. tied slings are cheap - I never use them for more than a season or two, so i never have any question whether that sling is still ok or not. rope, web, shoe-lace, your bandana -- you can make a quickdraw out of just about any configuration of fiber provided you can reliably tie a double fishermans knot. Its wisest to use a fiber you are certain will hold the expected load, say 10 kilonewtons. and any two full-strength carabiners will work. a fully functional brain trumps any piece of manufactured gear...
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Tradgic Yogurt
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Mar 10, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2016
· Points: 55
Eagle Mount wrote: and is it possible to change slim with a piece of climbing rope? to make a quickdraw with two carabiners and small lenght climbing rope Change Slim?
Your scientists were so concerned with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
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Darren Mabe
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Mar 10, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2002
· Points: 3,669
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Mark A
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Mar 10, 2019
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Golden, CO
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 96
Locker wrote: "Eagle Mount wrote: ... is it a safe or it will cause damage carabiners or something else?"
A couple of issues come to mind.
Issue #1 = "yer GONNA die!!!"...
Issue #2 = it will cause micro fractures throughout all of your cams and biners... Issue #2 and also micro fractures in your rope and belay device
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Mark A
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Mar 10, 2019
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Golden, CO
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 96
Eagle Mount wrote: Hello guys, there are some situations, when routes have 7 bolts, but we have 6 quickdraws, so I want to hear your opinion about it, to make a quickdraw with one sling and two locking carabiners, is it a safe or it will cause damage carabiners or something else? Look up "Trad draw"
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