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Looking for help breaking some climbing gear

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

How much are you short by at the moment jim, for the revo that is. 

Justice Holloway · · Oak View, CA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 120

$ sent, Thanks Jim!

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Good man!
Just about to break out a celebratory beer (it´s 4.30 in the afternoon here) before I start to sort out all my computer files and pictures and write it all up in some way I can dump it onto MP:
I managed to break the thing in the end, tougher than I thought! Broke the biner at 26.96kN pull testing so then did the twist test..
A life-tip;- if you meet Joe beware, he must be f#cking strong! I´m 6ft/200lbs and bend metal for a living  and he must be getting on for five times stronger than me  .

MorganH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 197
Jim Titt wrote: Good man!
Just about to break out a celebratory beer (it´s 4.30 in the afternoon here) before I start to sort out all my computer files and pictures and write it all up in some way I can dump it onto MP:
I managed to break the thing in the end, tougher than I thought! Broke the biner at 26.96kN pull testing so then did the twist test..
A life-tip;- if you meet Joe beware, he must be f#cking strong! I´m 6ft/200lbs and bend metal for a living  and he must be getting on for five times stronger than me  .

Just to be clear, he's not strong, he's a pendant.

MorganH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 197
Jaren Watson wrote:

To be worn about the neck, perchance?

Only a pedant could be sure.

Justice Holloway · · Oak View, CA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 120
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419
Healyje wrote: Think whatever you like, but all kinds of strange shit happens in falls. I personally don't care about drop tests because it's unlikely you'd reproduce one of those strange happenings that way in a limited number of drops. Ultimately all I care about is how strong the actual attachment points are. So drop test away, but the only test I'm interested in is seeing if you can put the biner in a vice and break the attachment points by hand. If you can't do that I'm fine with that aspect of it, but I suspect I could, in fact, break them that way which is one of several reasons why I find it lacking significant enough advantages to consider switching from the Eddy (which I'd do in a heartbeat if a better device ever came along).

 And thye results are in

Jim Titt wrote
:Enough dropping weights, time to break it!

Actually I felt a bit sad, the Revo had taken all I could throw at it and responded better than I´d imagined, just breaking seemed cruel!
To test it I wrapped a thin Dyneema sling three times around the wheel and put it in my hydraulic pull tester, this is actually after the test which I stopped after the karabiner failed at 26.96kN and the sling also started to tear:-

The karabiner fixing-point ears showed no signs of anything happening:-

The centre axle had bent so the whole thing looked pretty sad, still wouldn´t have dropped you to your death though (unlike the rope, biner, harness and all the rest of the stuff)!

O.k, the poor thing was pretty f#cked by now so all that was left was torsionally testing the attatchment points, just for Joe! I´d borrowed a horribly expensive recording torque meter from the guys down the road (they maintain gas turbines), made a fixture to hold the Revo and measured what I could achieve with both hands-34.07Nm (25.13ft lbs). I´m 6ft tall, weigh over 200lbs and bend metal for a living, I´m not that strong but sure not weak either!
Then I broke the Revo clipped into a 12mm round-stock HMS karabiner held in a vice- 144.02Nm (106.22ft lbs). To put this in perspective for those who aren´t mechanics the lug nuts on my car wheels are tightened to 140Nm and with the Revo it´s like trying to do this with a 2 inch long spanner.

Conclusions;- It´s better than I expected, stronger than I expected, gives a softer catch than my GriGri and I´d lead rope solo on it. As a belay device it´s nothing.



Well there you go Joe, & just like the wall gear in the picture below,

 All you need to bring is the balls...(& in my case Shoulders & Toes)
Justice Holloway · · Oak View, CA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 120

For anyone interested mountainproject.com/forum/t…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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