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Best climbing puffies?

Original Post
ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

Alright all you gear guys and gals, let's hear your recommendations for the best puffy jackets for climbing purposes. I don't buy new stuff very often so it would be nice to get some advice. It's gotta be warm, fairly low profile, be nice if it packs into its own pocket, and has a hood. I've had the same puffy going on 20 years and it's time to upgrade. What do you like?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Patagonia Nano Puff fits the bill.

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer.

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

How warm are we talking? A mid layer or a belay puffy? Ice or rock? Down or synthetic?

GearGuy 316 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

The North Face Summit Series L3 Down Hoodie

- Warm: Check
- Fairly Low Profile: Check (though not as low profile as Ghost Whisperer, but certainly warmer)
- packs into its own pocket: Check
- has a hood: Check

Paul Morrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 55

Cerium LT. Only a couple of ounces heavier than the Ghost Whisperer and substantially warmer. Also has a hood cinch. Anything that doesn't will drive you even madder on a windy day.

GearGuy 316 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Andrewww wrote: How warm are we talking? A mid layer or a belay puffy? Ice or rock? Down or synthetic?

The only belay puffy that I know of that can stuff into it's own pocket is the Outdoor Research Perch Belay Parka. All other belay parkas have a separate sack


https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/en/mens-perch-belay-parka/p/2448080001005

Ice climbers know a thing or two about staying warm in all those long, stationary stretches when their partner is leading a pitch. We made the Perch Belay Parka for them (and for anyone who wants water-resistant warmth while, say, grilling burgers in a ski resort parking lot in February). A Pertex® Endurance shell pumped full of down-like PrimaLoft® Gold, designed to fit over all your other layers. It also stuffs into the big interior pocket in the back so it can clip to your harness while you lead the next pitch—or be used as a pillow. 
GearGuy 316 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Paul Morrison wrote: Cerium LT. Only a couple of ounces heavier than the Ghost Whisperer and substantially warmer. Also has a hood cinch. Anything that doesn't will drive you even madder on a windy day.

I don't think the Cerium LT can stuff into it's own pocket, and it requires a separate stuff sack, but I could be wrong.

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

If you’re not hanging it off a harness, packing a puffy into its hood is nicer on the materials and faster to do, I wouldn’t rule anything out because it doesn’t have a stuff pocket

Elyas Bianchi · · Eugene, OR · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

patagonia nano air or nano puff is great 

al ex · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 20

Whichever one from one of the competent brands that is on biggest sale. A BD Access I got for $110 has been serving me adequately this season. It’s pretty no frills, but it does the job and I don’t worry about trashing it.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Buy in July.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

There is no "best". I have 6 jackets that meet my needs for belay jackets. Each has their merits, bit not one of them can do it all under all conditions.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

Rab Xenon X

Insert name · · Harts Location · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 46

Really depends on what you want jacket/parka, insulation weight and body type.

I am a real big fan of the BD jackets , I own the cold forge jacket/parkas, stance belay. I have put 200+ days and 12+ hours on the stance belay/ CF jacket. They range from 50f raining to -60f as my primary Insulation layer with a RA Harness on and hold up well.

I am happier with these than with my Patagonia/ La Sportiva jackets if I am wearing them to work because the shells seem to hold up better & personally fit me better.

My friends wear a lot of Rab jackets and have good luck with them lasting, but the fit seems
To be specific, Euro cut?

Gunks Jesse · · Shawangunk Township, NY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 111

Eddie Bauer First Ascent Microtherm 2.0 StormDown Hooded Jacket.  I’ve climbed in the non-hooded previous version for at least 6 years.  One small tear from years ago.  It’s held up wonderfully.  I think it fits all your feature requests and it’s budget friendly when on sale.

Mel Groves · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Same question, but for a woman? 

Chris Michalowski · · Granby, CO · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 290

Rab neutrino- warm, durable, hood fits a helmet really well. I like that there is insulation fully to the top of the zipper, keeps your neck warm.  It's a coat that can handle legitimate cold, without being too bulky.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 130

M.H stretch down RS hooded.  I wear mine climbing camping skiing. It’s very warm and compressible. -6 a few weeks ago in Telluride riding the lift with a breeze, only a base layer and this jacket I was warm!  It’s climbs well to not as small as the ghost but I think its much warmer.
If my partner and I are taking only a belay jacket this  one goes!
Love it!

ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

Thanks for the suggestions! Gives me a good place to start.  Looks like I still have a fair amount of research to do on specific jackets not to mention trying to find a good deal.

For those that asked...this is mostly for rock climbing but wouldn't mind if there were crossover into colder activities...ice, etc...

Maybe it's a multi jacket solution as was also mentioned.

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292

I’ve been really really happy with my BD cold forge puffy. The top of the collar has soft fleece and also in the pockets. 70% down 30% primaloft i think. Jacket is going on 4 years now. Only gripe i have is that it doesn’t have 2 main zippers to make belaying easier.

https://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-cold-forge-hooded-down-jacket-mens​​​

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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