Mountain Project Logo

Boatrock Competition

Original Post
shannon stegg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
  • We are having the Boatrock  competition tomorrow after nearly a straight week of rain knowing that saturated granite is much weaker and more likely to break?  We should reschedule this event unless saftey and rock preservation is to take a back seat to SCC's sponsors and volunteers.
Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,190

Does water actually weaken granite if it's above freezing? Never heard that one before...

shannon stegg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Chuck. you need to do your research before commenting on this subject.

shannon stegg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Just what I thought! Southern climbers do not have inquiring minds. What a shame.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Link to the research that shows granite weakens after rain?

PWZ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote: Link to the research that shows granite weakens after rain?

Is it difficult always playing the straight man?

shannon stegg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Most certainly. 

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 141

You can climb on granite in a downpour and it is a no higher risk of breaking.  If anything, it is at less risk because it will be slick and you won't be able to pull as hard.  It is not water permeable.  Yes granite cracks can be affected by freeze/thaw, as any rock would suffer with thermal expansion.  

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

"An Internet troll is a member of an online social community who deliberately tries to disrupt, attack, offend or generally cause trouble within the community by posting certain comments, photos, videos, GIFs or some other form of online content"

Now I get it!

saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221
Chuck Parks wrote: Does water actually weaken granite if it's above freezing? Never heard that one before...

Boat Rock in happier times:


All that's left after the irresponsible bouldering competition on wet granite:


. . . the horror . . . the horror.

JL
Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,196
saxfiend wrote: All that's left after the irresponsible bouldering competition on wet granite:

. . . the horror . . . the horror.

JL

I don't know, John.  I see a few unpicked plums in there.

shannon stegg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Sorry for thinking I could have a serious debate on this subject. Most of my climbing friends are in agreement with me on this topic but are curiously absent from this discussion. The fact that Mr. Saxfiend is a Mountain Project administrator with a axe to grind against me even makes this whole episode more disturbing. I am sure he does not have the intelligence or the decency to be fair or objective. That is sad, and a diservice to the climbing community at large.

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 141
shannon stegg wrote: Sorry for thinking I could have a serious debate on this subject. Most of my climbing friends are in agreement with me on this topic but are curiously absent from this discussion. The fact that Mr. Saxfiend is a Mountain Project administrator with a axe to grind against me even makes this whole episode more disturbing. I am sure he does not have the intelligence or the decency to be fair or objective. That is sad, and a diservice to the climbing community at large.

I love an intelligent debate.  Start it by debating my comment above.  Please cite why you think wet granite is in any way weaker.  There is a reason that granite makes great countertops.....it is not permeable!  

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Eric Carlos wrote
  .  .  .  .  .  .There is a reason that granite makes great countertops.....it is not permeable!  

 Granite used for fixtures in building is "cultured stone"  treated  &  polished
Polished  Countertops are not raw stone.

Climbing on water-soaked raw granite allows, in a very small, but noticeable way, to very experienced climbers for easier polishing to occur.  
Causing fine grit to be rubbed off, changing the texture, diminishing coarseness &  so reducing adhesion & friction on sloping holds.

I'm sure I will be sorry that I have said anything As it is not my circus.

saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221
Shannon's Moores Wall climbs (to name a few) are still stand-alone test pieces.

Can you give us some examples?

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

.

YES,( yeah I got  that all wrong, mixed up places & climbers with names that both start with the same letter .  

saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221
Suburban Roadside wrote: YES

I guess I wasn't entirely clear.  I was asking if you could give us some examples of his Moore's Wall FAs.


JL

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 8,357
saxfiend wrote:

I guess I wasn't entirely clear.  I was asking if you could give us some examples of his Moore's Wall FAs.


JL

Been climbing at Moores for a looong time and never heard of a Stegg route there. Not sure what FAs have to do with this subject anyway.



Back to the topic. Even though granitic rocks are not as permeable as sandstones they can still soak up water. And it is a well known fact in geology that water can lower the yield point (strength) in rocks, though I don't think that is the primary issue we're talking about here. More of a problem for climbing is that water can weaken the bonds that hold those small nubbins and (flaky) crimps in place on the surface of the cliffs.

There Shannon, finally something you and I can agree on...

Dylan Valvo · · Marshall NC · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 1,916

I have the start hold for paintcan sit, the crystal from the woods hill wave project and a piece from fernandos block at my house. All broken by individuals climbing after rain at boat rock. I absolutely promise granite can be weakend by moisture alone.  No freeze thaw necessary. 

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 141
Dylan Valvo wrote: I have the start hold for paintcan sit, the crystal from the woods hill wave project and a piece from fernandos block at my house. All broken by individuals climbing after rain at boat rock. I absolutely promise granite can be weakend by moisture alone.  No freeze thaw necessary. 

Promising is not science.  Please provide some scientific evidence of granite permeability and it's weakening due to water.  

FYI: last time I climbed at Boatrock was circa 2008.  I have no dog in this race with regard to the specific event, but water doesn't weaken granite.  

Ryan7crew · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 651

I too no longer live in the southeast, but I love a good debate.  And Shannon is guaranteed to provide!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
Post a Reply to "Boatrock Competition "

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.