Granite sport climbing?

Granite sport climbing can be so good! It's usually subtle or balance dependent and yet requiring some bouldery power.

Thunder Ridge
Index
Pet Wall at Squamish
Public Sanitation wall in Yosemite

• I would have to say Devils Head in South Platte co has some of the best. 

When i visited Colorado front range area i thought the Crimpfest wall in South Platte was really fun. Also King’s Throne was super fun bolted sport climbing.. I think they were both granite..

Chek by squamish has some of the best granite sport climbing this side of the universe. Imagine if rifle and Boulder Canyon had a baby (minus the choss). Well thats Chek

Ailefroide is pretty darn awesome. Routes up to 15 pitches or so, and lots of single pitch. But maybe France doesn't count? 

Jaren Watson wrote: Are we getting trolled by a genius here?

"We", being rejects spending time on climbing forums in the middle of the day, likely aren't in a position to evaluate level of mental competence.  

Fun list regardless.

Jaren Watson wrote:

Yes, but none of them are “enjoyable.”

  

It’s all in the eye of the beholder, but I think I’ve ‘enjoyed’ much granite sportivity. I suppose other choss is some people’s thing to ‘enjoy.’ But yeah, don’t go to the City. Very ‘unenjoyable.’

11 Mile Canyon and Tanner Dome fit the bill.

Jaren Watson wrote:

Yes, but none of them are “enjoyable.”

  

i found Morning Glory to be a quite enjoyable moderate sport multipitch. 

Rob T wrote: Haven’t been but Shagg Crag in Maine is about the only crag I’ve seen on the east coast that makes me drool every time I see a pic. 

you haven't looked enough.....

City of Rocks, ID. Yep, classic spurt climping.

Very worth it for the Trad too.

Sorry a little bit of clarification: when I say "classic" I'm meaning somewhere that is worth a destination trip or you would go out of your way on a road trip. Obviously there is not a granite red river gorge out there but when I think classic sport climbing the areas that come to mind are RRG, Smith rock, EPC, ten sleep, ORG....etc...

Is chek granite? Been a couple years but thought it was something else.

Cochise is not what I consider sport climbing. I've spent a lot of time here and yes there can be lots of bolts but not really sport climbing.

Sport climbing I think easy approach, safely bolted not have to worry about falling, bomber 2 bolt anchors. Bonus points for free/good camping and water.

Go!

In Boulder Canyon you have Cascade, Bihedral, Sport Park, Solaris, Avalon, Watermark.  Easy approaches at all of them.   Some of these crags are pretty crowded during peak times, and not much camping, so maybe not destination spots.

In the Front Range, Upper Dream Canyon is great, and it's beautiful.

Shuteye
Donner
Mayhem Cove
Bowman
Emeralds
Rock Creek

Thomas Gilmore wrote: Chatting with my partner today, I realized that I havent ever found granite sport climbing that I enjoyed.

Independence Pass has some pretty good, steep granite sport climbing.

Shagg Crag is super cool, if you can evade the mosquitoes, ticks and rain! 

Thomas Gilmore wrote: Sorry a little bit of clarification: when I say "classic" I'm meaning somewhere that is worth a destination trip or you would go out of your way on a road trip. Obviously there is not a granite red river gorge out there but when I think classic sport climbing the areas that come to mind are RRG, Smith rock, EPC, ten sleep, ORG....etc...

Is chek granite? Been a couple years but thought it was something else.

Cochise is not what I consider sport climbing. I've spent a lot of time here and yes there can be lots of bolts but not really sport climbing.

Sport climbing I think easy approach, safely bolted not have to worry about falling, bomber 2 bolt anchors. Bonus points for free/good camping and water.

Go!

Since you mentioned ORG as a worth destination area, I'll counter with Pine Creek. It is only 20 minutes from ORG and is, in my experience, its equal in quality. The styles are quite different, of course, so visit them both and see which you prefer. New guidebooks out recently for both areas.

I'll concede your point that the world's great sport destinations tend not to be granite. Generally, limestone and some types of sandstone lend themselves better to consistently producing high quality, steep, pumpy, athletic sport climbing. In many pplaces the granite just isn't featured enough to provide this. There are exceptions, though, and they are awesome. This thread has a pretty great list to start you off.

Alvaro Arnal wrote: Independence Pass has some pretty good, steep granite sport climbing.

Good addition to the list. Indy Pass is perhaps not a major sport climbing desitnation, but it is for-sure a worthwhile road trip stop.