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Whats your take on this piece of an anchor?

Original Post
North Col · · Toronto, CA · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

I saw the below the other day, i dont think its common practice though. Anyone ever use this rigging for anything? Id use a diffrent knot to connect to the beiner at the bottom I think ( the knot at the smaller hole, that kind of looks like a double fishermans).


Thanks,

North Col
Gavin Towey · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

That's commonly used for personal tethers in sailing.  The gate is locked unless you push in on the back plate.  Which means it's convenient to hold in your hand and squeeze it to open as you slap it onto a hard point or a jackline.

It would terrify me to use it for climbing because it is absolutely not designed to stay locked with the things that could happen as part of an anchor.  At best you could treat it like the most expensive non-locking carabiner in the world, since you shouldn't trust it to stay securely closed.

North Col · · Toronto, CA · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0
Gavin Towey wrote: That's commonly used for personal tethers in sailing.  The gate is locked unless you push in on the back plate.  Which means it's convenient to hold in your hand and squeeze it to open as you slap it onto a hard point or a jackline.

It would terrify me to use it for climbing because it is absolutely not designed to stay locked with the things that could happen as part of an anchor.  At best you could treat it like the most expensive non-locking carabiner in the world, since you shouldn't trust it to stay securely closed.

I see what your saying, i didnt think of the type of  beiner though, i was asking more about the rope setup but yes to calrify lets assume this one done on a climbing locking beiner

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

The knot at the bottom hole is a double overhand or barrel slip knot and is perhaps the strongest knot one can use for attaching a rope end to a carabiner. It is also among the most practical, as it can be snugged up and so holds a tether carabiner in place.  British climbers and many cavers refer to tethers as "cow's tails" and you'll find this to be a standard attaching knot if you google that phrase.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

The clove hitch and barrel knot tied in the rope looks fine to me. I don't know enough about that carabiner to have an informed opinion but everything else looks like it's probably good, given the limited amount of contextual information available.

I might used a different knot than the barrel knot if I anticipated ever needing to untie it because it is going to become atomically welded after being heavily used and it looks like that section of the carabiner can't simply by unclipped. 

John Kerry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Yeah, I have actually seen that before. Mainly used by sailors. 

David Dentry · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 141

I've seen that type of carabiner on Via Ferrata, too. I have a Black Diamond set with that type of attachment.

Russ B · · Yosemite · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 46

The knot that isn't a clove hitch is referred to as a scaffold knot. 

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

See https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/110108159/scaffold-hitch .  Note that there is a catastrophically wrong (and exceedingly dumb) way to mistie it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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