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rafael
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Jan 6, 2019
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Berkeley, CA
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 35
I have an intense urge to climb at my gym redpoint limit in my tc pros and climb a handcrack in my sport shoes
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Rob WardenSpaceLizard
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Jan 6, 2019
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las Vegans, the cosmic void
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 130
LOOK AT THIS CHUFFER!!!! SOLUTIONS CRACK CLIMBING!
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Sam M
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Jan 6, 2019
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Portland, OR
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 30
It's a good "one shoe quiver" shoe, that's why
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Zack Robinson
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Jan 7, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 0
I think your question is legitimate, and I also think "It's the climber, not the shoe" is a bit of nonsense. Shoes matter, although they may not matter as much as some people think. But I'd love to see someone climb 5.15 in a pair of Nike running shoes. It's probably not going to happen. But can Sharma climb something in Nikes that I probably can't in my $180 climbing shoes? Probably. That doesn't imply "It's the climber, not the shoes," though. It just implies that a world-class climber can outclimb a random dude even if he has bad shoes on. But Sharma would still climb better with real climbing shoes on than he would in Nikes, and he would climb better in certain climbing shoes than he would in others.
This sort of boils down to how we evaluate causation. Back when steroids in baseball were a big topic, people would say that steroids can't hit a home run -- one still needs to be a good hitter in order to do that. It was true of course, but it missed the point. Steroids might take a talented hitter's warning track shot and turn it into a home run. That's why players like Barry Bonds went from hitting 40-something homers to 70+ homers. Did the steroids cause Bonds to hit those home runs? They may have been necessary for some of them, but they certainly weren't sufficient. That's how climbing shoes are. A talented climber climbing at his or her limit might get a route in cutting edge shoes that he or she may not have gotten in flat beginner shoes. In that case, the shoes were at least necessary, even if they weren't sufficient, for that climber climbing that route.
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Rob warden The space lizard
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Jan 7, 2019
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Now...where?
· Joined Sep 2009
· Points: 0
I maybe in the minority. I have super soft slippers sized at performance fit specifically for the gym. I like soft shoes on plastic and I dont want to teach myself bad foot work from sloppy shoes
That said my shoe situation is more of a quiver than a single rack.
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Stephen L
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Jan 7, 2019
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South + Van
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 166
My guess is they just like how the show performs for them, regardless of whether it's overhung, etc. The Shaman, with it's super hard sole and down turn toe, is like $20 cheaper? For top end climbing shoes you're always looking at north of $150 so that's moot, I'd say.
So I don't think you're missing anything... people just find the shoe that works for them or a certain route and bingo. Ol' Ondra duder wears two different shoes for some routes... whoa.
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Darren Mabe
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Jan 7, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2002
· Points: 3,669
They do it specifically to fuck with you
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Buck Rio
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Jan 7, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
I climb almost entirely in stiff shoes because I have terrible osteoarthritis in my toes and feet. Shoving them in a performance shoe would make me cry. So I climb in flat, rather stiff shoes. Except the gym where the longest I will be wearing them is about 5 minutes.
Perhaps that is why they wear the TCP when they are sussing out the route, and switch to their Boostics or Skwarma (sp?) when they are ready to send??? Just an idea.
I am also wondering how Tony B's recovery is coming along.
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Mike Knight
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Jan 7, 2019
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Detroit, MI
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 55
I honestly think they are wearing them for the main reason that it is ironic and they think they are cool. Based on the people I see wearing them at my gym that's the vibe I get.
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Gunkiemike
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Jan 7, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,732
Mike Knight wrote: I honestly think they are wearing them for the main reason that it is ironic and they think they are cool. Based on the people I see wearing them at my gym that's the vibe I get. I have a growing suspicion that this is the answer that OP is looking to hear: they are doing it because they are not as smart as OP; they are merely poseurs who care more about emulating their idol than making sensible shoe choices. Maybe in time they will acquire OP's wisdom and get proper shoes, but until then, the yoga pants are watching and so TC Pros it is. Now can we please move on to discussing why folks who never leave the urban pavement drive an $80K SUV?
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John Clark
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Jan 7, 2019
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BLC
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 1,408
Has anyone bothered looking at new TC Pros? They actually have a small downturn compared to the classic flat shoes like Moccs, Mythos, rainbow of Anasazis, etc. That being said, I think TC pros are way overkill for most climbs and I can buy two pairs of shoes for what one pair of TCs cost.
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Buck Rio
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Jan 7, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
Gunkiemike wrote: Now can we please move on to discussing why folks who never leave the urban pavement drive an $80K SUV? Because they can??? BTW, a 7000 lb. SUV is not great for off road anyway, at least not around here. When they inevitably slide off the track, they are a bitch to get out.
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highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
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Jan 7, 2019
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Colorado
· Joined Oct 2012
· Points: 35
I've climbed a lot of routes in my TC Pro's. I first started doing it to break them in for longer stuff, once I got them broken in, I realized I liked them a lot.
They aren't down turned but are precise with serious edging power. Performance wise, in sport climbing, they're similar to Anasazi Pinks. They are heavier and take too long to put on but they are a great shoe in most situations.
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Mike Knight
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Jan 7, 2019
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Detroit, MI
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 55
Gunkiemike wrote: I have a growing suspicion that this is the answer that OP is looking to hear: they are doing it because they are not as smart as you; they are merely poseurs who care more about emulating their idol than making sensible shoe choices. Maybe in time they will acquire OP's wisdom and get proper shoes, but until then, the yoga pants are watching and so TC Pros it is. Now can we please move on to discussing why folks who never leave the urban pavement drive an $80K SUV? Are you saying I believe they are not as smart as me? Or the op? I was just giving an answer based on why I feel they are wearing them. No judgement from my end that’s just my observation. Wether they are cool or not isn’t my concern. I wear the blue and green katanas so obviously I don’t know what’s cool or not.
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Gunkiemike
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Jan 7, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,732
Mike Knight wrote: Are you saying I believe they are not as smart as me? Or the op? I was just giving an answer based on why I feel they are wearing them. No judgement from my end that’s just my observation. Wether they are cool or not isn’t my concern. I wear the blue and green katanas so obviously I don’t know what’s cool or not. Sorry, was talking about OP, not you. I've fixed my post to make that clear.
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Ted Pinson
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Jan 7, 2019
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Gunkiemike wrote: I have a growing suspicion that this is the answer that OP is looking to hear: they are doing it because they are not as smart as OP; they are merely poseurs who care more about emulating their idol than making sensible shoe choices. Maybe in time they will acquire OP's wisdom and get proper shoes, but until then, the yoga pants are watching and so TC Pros it is. Now can we please move on to discussing why folks who never leave the urban pavement drive an $80K SUV? Mike, I can understand your suspicions, but they couldn’t be further from the truth, and I’d like to think that my previous forum experience could grant me a little more benefit of the doubt, as I can’t recall ever demonstrating that sort of attitude in the past. If I did, then I apologize. I am definitely a gear nerd when it comes to shoes; I like trying on different shoes and comparing their performance in different environments, and TC Pros are one of my favorite shoes, although I sized mine comfy and was never too impressed with their performance on the steeps. I’ve heard they get pretty incredible at edging when you size them aggressively, but hadn’t thought of climbing steep routes in them, which was why I was curious when I saw people that did. By the way, in answer to your question: kids. Once you start putting car seats in, cargo space becomes a big issue, and there are limited options for three row seating.
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Mike Knight
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Jan 7, 2019
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Detroit, MI
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 55
Thank you for the clarification. I appreciate it.
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Andrew Rice
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Jan 7, 2019
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 11
Simple answer: Because once you put on your TC Pros they're a pain to take off
Alt Answer: Because they've got a new pair of shoes and want to break them in at the gym before relying on their "all day comfort" all day. (People have seen me climbing steep routes in TC pros at the gym for this reason.)
2nd Alt Answer: Because they're training for a big outdoor climb with some steep pitches and want to see how the TCs perform at that.
Final answer: Why didn't you just ask the people in question?
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highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
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Jan 7, 2019
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Colorado
· Joined Oct 2012
· Points: 35
I want to clarify something. I have 40.5 tc pros. All my other la sportivas are 39.
Ted says he heard they edge great when sized aggressively. Probably true but they also edge great when sized for comfort. It's pretty close to having it both ways.
I haven't worn mine in like 2 years. Baby, job, and location have kept me away from multi pitch and the ease of low tops is my priority lately.
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Gunkiemike
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Jan 7, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,732
Ted Pinson wrote: Mike, I can understand your suspicions, but they couldn’t be further from the truth, and I’d like to think that my previous forum experience could grant me a little more benefit of the doubt, as I can’t recall ever demonstrating that sort of attitude in the past. If I did, then I apologize. I am definitely a gear nerd when it comes to shoes; I like trying on different shoes and comparing their performance in different environments, and TC Pros are one of my favorite shoes, although I sized mine comfy and was never too impressed with their performance on the steeps. I’ve heard they get pretty incredible at edging when you size them aggressively, but hadn’t thought of climbing steep routes in them, which was why I was curious when I saw people that did.
In that case, I'd be curious to hear YOUR suspicions of why people are doing what you observe. Surely by now you have formulated at least something of a theory.
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