Does Anyone Climb Steep Routes in TC Pros?

I’ve been seeing this a lot lately, and it’s quite baffling.  Many of the people doing it are climbing way harder than me, so I’m not able to dismiss it as idiot newbies who watched Free Solo/Dawn Wall.  I get that it’s the climber not the shoe, etc, but it seems like if you’re going to spend $180+ and climb steep sport routes, you’d be better off with a more aggressive last rather than a flat, stiff shoe.  Am I missing something?

I only have one pair of shoes currently. They work. Plus it will feel easier when I can afford a shoe for steep climbing! 

Ted Pinson wrote: I’ve been seeing this a lot lately, and it’s quite baffling.  Many of the people doing it are climbing way harder than me, so I’m not able to dismiss it as idiot newbies who watched Free Solo/Dawn Wall.  I get that it’s the climber not the shoe, etc, but it seems like if you’re going to spend $180+ and climb steep sport routes, you’d be better off with a more aggressive last rather than a flat, stiff shoe.  Am I missing something?

Ted, its not the last that matters.  The speed record was set on the Nose several times in 5.10 Mocs.  You say you get that its not the shoe and then you say you would be better off in a different shoe.  Seems like you think its the shoe Ted.  Its the confidence that the shoe gives the climber.  

I get that a skilled climber can climb anything in any shoe, but that doesn’t mean that every shoe is ideal for every job.  My bafflement is why someone would use such an expensive shoe for such an unusual purpose.

Ted Pinson wrote: I’ve been seeing this a lot lately, and it’s quite baffling.  Many of the people doing it are climbing way harder than me, so I’m not able to dismiss it as idiot newbies who watched Free Solo/Dawn Wall.  I get that it’s the climber not the shoe, etc, but it seems like if you’re going to spend $180+ and climb steep sport routes, you’d be better off with a more aggressive last rather than a flat, stiff shoe.  Am I missing something?

- some people only own a single pair of shoes

- some people have toe problems and can't handle super downturned shoes

- when you are climbing a route that's easy for you, it doesn't matter what shoe you use (usually)

- the person may be climbing the route in their old pair of tc pros that have 4 resoles already

The TC is pretty good all around shoe, not great but pretty good.  Now, if you were climbing at Josh and you saw someone climbing in a super down turned shoe some slab route that would be a more legit beef than someone climbing a steep route in TC's.

No beef!  I was hoping there was some secret they had discovered.  I wasn’t particularly inspired by their performance when I bouldered in mine, but they’re sized for all day comfort and I’ve noticed that you can go pretty damn tight in TCs if you want to.  Also, I’ve heard people swear by Testarossas and Solutions on slab, so...

You can find lots of videos of Sharma, Trotter, etc. climbing hard routes in flat shoes. 

Haha.  Maybe not.

Guys, I get that people can climb hard in flat shoes.  I don’t get why someone would spend $180 if “the shoe doesn’t matter.”  If any shoe will do, why get such an expensive one?  Is it just a matter of fit?

Never pay retail.

Ted Pinson wrote: Haha.  Maybe not.

Guys, I get that people can climb hard in flat shoes.  I don’t get why someone would spend $180 if “the shoe doesn’t matter.”  If any shoe will do, why get such an expensive one?  Is it just a matter of fit?

It is just a matter of hype. After Dawn Wall  FFA TC Pro sales rocketed thru the roof. They still are pretty popular.

Climbers have a lot more money these days to spend on disposable items like TC pros.
 On a related note as has been mentioned  , it’s the climber not the shoe. You shoulda seen the shoes Derek Hersey would climb in ....sized soo big he would wear 3 pairs of wool socks in them! 

mountainhick wrote: Never pay retail.

I'm fairly new to the sport. How would you suggest not paying retail? Just waiting for online sales?

Domenic Contrino wrote:

I'm fairly new to the sport. How would you suggest not paying retail? Just waiting for online sales?

In the case of TC Pros, I would suggest finding out what size you wear, then checking the For Sale forum here. I don't know what it is about the TCPs' fit, but it seems LOTS of people buy the wrong size and then sell their "nearly new" shoes here for half price. Their loss = your barGAIN.

Theyre probably going for comfort over anything else. It’s not the shoe that makes the climber... 

Don't know about other folks, but I boulder in the gym in a pair of loose $50 demo shoes that I picked up for flatirons scrambles.  No, they don't perform well on edges.  And they are also not aggressive/downturned, but with the foot arthritis, that's not an option.
Or maybe you see me in there in my old Sportiva Barracudas from 10+ years ago.  The glue is still holding them together.  Maybe one more resole, maybe not.
I view it like riding a heavy old bike - it's a workout and it is cheap.

Now, if I end up in the gym and all I have is what was in my pack... Or maybe if something else is in for that resole it might live through... then you might see me climbing in TC pros, but it is a fluke if so.

So there are some possibilities/philosophies to consider.  As for what other people think/do?  Shrug.  I don't know.

As they say... “It ain’t the arrow, it’s the injun.”

Wearing the aggressive slipper isn’t the prerequisite you thought? Maybe that was the fad? 

They didn't pay $180 for 'em.

You guys are still missing the point.  I get climbing in cheap shoes, but TC Pros aren’t cheap, even if you don’t pay retail.  They’re one of the more expensive shoes out there, so if your game is overhanging sport and ANY shoe will do...why that one?

It’s just money. And apparently they edge really well.