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What are some easy-moderate roof climbs near SoCal?

Original Post
Jeff Lee · · Thousand Oaks, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

It's easy for gyms to set up nice, long roof climbs, but I've never seen any outdoors. I think the closest thing to what I'm imagining that I've tried is Powder Keg at Holcomb Valley, but that can be argued to just be a steep climb. Are there any other fun roof climbs that are 5.11 or easier in California or Nevada?

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

More Funky Than Monkey, Super Roof, and Imaginary Voyage in J Tree come to mind.

WoodyW · · Port Orchard, WA. · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70

Triton Tower on El Cajon is pretty spicy. Saw some dude, who left his harness in the van, make a "swami harness" out of runners and cord and lead it without whipping. 

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 50

A bunch of the climbs in The Gunks?

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114368492/bigcone-buttress

This is a big one that won’t disappoint!!! Get some!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Jeff... ECHO has some. Stoney has some, over at Martin Landing.
If you go to the BMX/Horseman center in the hi desert you can find more.
IMHO the best steep climbing in So Cal is to be found at the Kern Limestone. This is a big roof!
The best climbing at Church Domes are the overhung ones. “Liquid Jesus” is awesome.
And go visit Texas Canyon.... Tripper has a few new climbs in the big roof/cave - first thing you get to.
Don’t forget New Jack city.
Or Sunny but steep in Red Rocks...
the ORG .... tons of them!
And I hear tales of a full pitch one named “Tokopaugh Reality” in Sequoia NP at the Santa Cruz domes.
So much to climb, so little time. 

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,685
Jeff Lee11 wrote: It's easy for gyms to set up nice, long roof climbs, but I've never seen any outdoors. I think the closest thing to what I'm imagining that I've tried is Powder Keg at Holcomb Valley, but that can be argued to just be a steep climb. Are there any other fun roof climbs that are 5.11 or easier in California or Nevada?

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107253664/blacklisted

not necessarily a roof, but it's a fun steep climb.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

This fails the "easy-moderate" test but everyone needs life goals.

Paisano Overhang​​​

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
Señor Arroz wrote: This fails the "easy-moderate" test but everyone needs life goals.

Paisano Overhang

I never think easy moderate roof... 

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
Guy Keesee wrote:

I never think easy moderate roof... 

True. That whole upside down thing makes them not easy. At least for me. 

Dunder Thunder · · Ventura ca · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 53
Guy Keesee wrote: Jeff... ECHO has some. Stoney has some, over at Martin Landing.
If you go to the BMX/Horseman center in the hi desert you can find more.
IMHO the best steep climbing in So Cal is to be found at the Kern Limestone. This is a big roof!
The best climbing at Church Domes are the overhung ones. “Liquid Jesus” is awesome.
And go visit Texas Canyon.... Tripper has a few new climbs in the big roof/cave - first thing you get to.
Don’t forget New Jack city.
Or Sunny but steep in Red Rocks...
the ORG .... tons of them!
And I hear tales of a full pitch one named “Tokopaugh Reality” in Sequoia NP at the Santa Cruz domes.
So much to climb, so little time. 

 I went up to kern limestone a couple years ago. There was several active bee hives on/near some of the lines on the left side of the crag. We opted out for better conditions. 

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

I had some friends who went there in November. They climbed in the cave... where the best climbing is. Didn’t say a word about bees. The place could use a new fixed line they said. 

plantmandan · · Rice Lake, WI · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 96

Have you ever been to Eldo? Old school 5.8+ roof heaven. Two hour flight from SoCal.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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