New and experienced climbers over 50 #4

ErikaNW wrote:

Yes - it’s a 2015 Cricket. We got a killer deal on it! 

How do those handle winds when fully popped up?

Everyone has great New Year's resolutions.  Except Carl.  I feel like we should have a community vote on whether he can keep having his 'moments'.  Carl, we need you around for 2020!

I'm wrapping up my trip here in a day or two, and have been spending my recovery time taking pictures and exploring winter in the desert. (I can't believe there was actually an explanation for armpit pain!)  It's 34 degrees here now, but when the wind picks up, it's cold.  BTW... thank you all for the puffy suggestion.  That was really helpful!

I had an incredible experience yesterday that helped me form my own New Years resolutions.  I was watching a climber on Double Cross who got stuck about halfway.... he couldn't move up or down, his rope was stuck at the top.  He finally had to rig a rappel where he was, lower down, and leave his rope and gear all along the wall.  Another climber decided to lead back up and save the gear.  I've watched a lot of people flounder on Double Cross... but this climber was absolutely steady and aware, moving up that crack, placing cams along the way, and then he freed the rope at the top and brought it all down.  I can see why so many accidents have happened here... there are unprotected places where a hard fall could be bad. Anyway, he was calm and cool, and I imagine a lot of you are as good as he is. It was inspiring.   

I also got to watch several climbers attempt Sexy Grandma, and be way over their heads.  In fact, every one of them got stuck at the move from the chimney to the face and eventually gave up.  Now I understand Bob's coaching to get my left shoulder deep into that chimney, left arm way in and up high,  toe in my left foot into that crack, and stem right up and over.  At the time it made no sense, and I felt off-balance.  It's probably the only way to make that transition.  None of these climbers could figure that out.  I noticed a lot of gym cards flapping in the breeze...  

I got a text from my little climbing buddy at the gym... it's been a couple of weeks, she's getting antsy.  She's probably a grade higher than me at the gym... without a lot of effort.  And yet I realized... she's never been outside.  That learning curve would be a real challenge.  Brand new, never tied a rope, seen an anchor... felt a breeze.

I've gained a fresh appreciation for climbing on rock (not the gym)--the wonder of being outdoors, where every footstep is different, decisions made, and the vibe is personal.  Climbers are an elite, lucky club.  For all the work we do at the gym, it can't touch heading up a route.  For me, it's really coming down to being outside and climbing.  (and hats off to those who already had years/decades of climbing and now stay strong at the gym).  If I thought a good long trip would suffice and get the great outdoors out of my system... that did not happen. 

But still no Flake.    It wasn't a 'no'... just the hassle of rigging a top rope for this climb.  And we were so busy in every other part of the park.  I sat in that little chimney again yesterday, to get out of the wind.  I don't think I can see the line after the off-width... but it looks like some face climbing and then good slab.  I always laugh thinking of John's solution to the slab which initially looked daunting.  Smartass.    

Here's to 2019.  May it be full of life, love and wonder.  

Señor Arroz wrote:

How do those handle winds when fully popped up?

We had high winds (40-50 mph) a couple of times and had no issues (other than the noise). The tent part is pretty minimal. I know some people collapse it for sleeping just to keep the warmth - we have camped in 20 degrees a few times and did not feel a need to do that - we have a propane heater buddy though. I suppose it all depends on what kind of wind you are talking about - not sure how it would fare in a tornado or hurricane!

ErikaNW wrote:

We had high winds (40-50 mph) a couple of times and had no issues (other than the noise). The tent part is pretty minimal. I know some people collapse it for sleeping just to keep the warmth - we have camped in 20 degrees a few times and did not feel a need to do that - we have a propane heater buddy though. I suppose it all depends on what kind of wind you are talking about - not sure how it would fare in a tornado or hurricane!I

I'm pretty sure we've all seen what happens to trailers in tornados and hurricanes. I'm curious just because some of the places I'd use a trailer like that get pretty windy. The California desert in particular. That's a great idea to collapse it for sleeping. I hate flapping tent walls when I sleep. One reason I'd never go for a rooftop tent. 

Lori Milas wrote: ...Everyone has great New Year's resolutions.  Except Carl.  I feel like we should have a community vote on whether he can keep having his 'moments'.  Carl, we need you around for 2020!...

Ha ha ha how nice of you Lori!  I guess I should decide on one or two or three, so...

1. Lead at least grade 16 Trad
2. Send my first V5
3. Lead at least grade 23 sports again
4. Gain muscle and get ripped and look way way hot
5. Do 21 laps of the climb 'Extra G (grade 21)' on top rope in sets of 1 rep, 2 reps, 3, 4, 5 and 6 with three minutes between sets

Oh, also, have I shared my song with you guys?  If not, view it as a belated (and crappy) Christmas present, don't read it if you don't like cussen'

It's called "I Ain't Got No Fuc&ing Cams"

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I ain't got no fuc&ing caaams, I ain't no fuc&ing traaaader,
I just go bouldering,
I got a Mondo crash paaaadah,
I set problems at the gym,
Haters say they're fuc&ing laaaaders,
I'm just a dirty dirt bag boulderer,
I never wash my puffer jaaaacket...

I've got a chalk bucket!
It's full of white chalk!
Come on yeah!
Come on yeah!
You can send this problem!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

It DOES need some work, and maybe quite a few more verses,  feel free to add to it.  It's sung in a sort of punk style, loud and aggressive (like me).  The last verse (chorus?) is (sort of) sung to the Bohemian Rhapsody bit where it goes:

"I see a little silhouetto of a man
Scaramouche, Scaramouche,
will you do the Fandango

One day we'll all meet up somewhere, get way way drunk on $2.99 chardonnay and sing it raucously together.
OK I'll go away now....   

Carl Schneider wrote:

Ha ha ha how nice of you Lori!  I guess I should decide on one or two or three, so...

1. Lead at least grade 16 Trad
2. Send my first V5
3. Lead at least grade 23 sports again
4. Gain muscle and get ripped and look way way hot
5. Do 21 laps of the climb 'Extra G (grade 21)' on top rope in sets of 1 rep, 2 reps, 3, 4, 5 and 6 with three minutes between sets

Oh, also, have I shared my song with you guys?  If not, view it as a belated (and crappy) Christmas present, don't read it if you don't like cussen'

It's called "I Ain't Got No Fuc&ing Cams"

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I ain't got no fuc&ing caaams, I ain't no fuc&ing traaaader,
I just go bouldering,
I got a Mondo crash paaaadah,
I set problems at the gym,
Haters say they're fuc&ing laaaaders,
I'm just a dirty dirt bag boulderer,
I never wash my puffer jaaaacket...

I've got a chalk bucket!
It's full of white chalk!
Come on yeah!
Come on yeah!
You can send this problem!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

It DOES need some work, and maybe quite a few more verses,  feel free to add to it.  It's sung in a sort of punk style, loud and aggressive (like me).  The last verse (chorus?) is (sort of) sung to the Bohemian Rhapsody bit where it goes:

"I see a little silhouetto of a man
Scaramouche, Scaramouche,
will you do the Fandango

One day we'll all meet up somewhere, get way way drunk on $2.99 chardonnay and sing it raucously together.
OK I'll go away now....   

Carl, you have my permission to attempt #4... maybe you can just stay with that for awhile?  As for your song I think it would be better listened to: maybe you can do a little recording of yourself singing it, upload it and we’ll vote. 

If you bust out a verse of Bohemian Rhapsody I’m going to inquire if you’ve had maybe a little much of the witheria tea. Hold that thought until we can all meetup...can you TRY not to hurt yourself before then? 

I’m having a horrible time tearing myself away from here to go home.  I just don’t want to leave. The quiet has been good for me. The peace. Meanwhile the last vestiges of a relationship up in smoke along with my server and computers.  2019.  A clean slate. (I think the server is going to be ok).

So hanging out a little longer, I had a good laugh watching a woman try to climb Double Cross. She somehow managed to struggle up the entire thing without ever putting a hand or foot in that crack! It’s not nice to laugh but I couldn’t help it. Gym card flying in the breeze and clearly she had never seen a crack before.  She did it the hard way.

And what do you know: I watched a climber on the Flake.  Got it now. A goal for 2019.   

Lori Milas wrote: I’m having a horrible time tearing myself away from here to go home.  I just don’t want to leave. The quiet has been good for me. The peace. Meanwhile the last vestiges of a relationship up in smoke along with my server and computers.  2019.  A clean slate. (I think the server is going to be ok).

So hanging out a little longer, I had a good laugh watching a woman try to climb Double Cross. She somehow managed to struggle up the entire thing without ever putting a hand or foot in that crack! It’s not nice to laugh but I couldn’t help it. Gym card flying in the breeze and clearly she had never seen a crack before.  She did it the hard way.

There are few things sadder (and more funny) than watching a perfectly good 5.8 hand crack go to waste while someone struggles on 5.10 face moves. 

Señor Arroz wrote:

There are few things sadder (and more funny) than watching a perfectly good 5.8 hand crack go to waste while someone struggles on 5.10 face moves. 

Ha ha - guilty! I’ll gladly seek out 5.11 face to avoid 5.6 crack... should probably work on that!

Lori Milas wrote:

Carl, you have my permission to attempt #4... maybe you can just stay with that for awhile?  As for your song I think it would be better listened to: maybe you can do a little recording of yourself singing it, upload it and we’ll vote. 

If you bust out a verse of Bohemian Rhapsody I’m going to inquire if you’ve had maybe a little much of the witheria tea. Hold that thought until we can all meetup...can you TRY not to hurt yourself before then? 

Ha ha ha.  I'm literally sitting here chuckling :-)  I'll get me and my mate to do a recording for you of my classic tune :-)

Carl Schneider wrote:

Ha ha ha.  I'm literally sitting here chuckling :-)  I'll get me and my mate to do a recording for you of my classic tune :-)

Oh god. 

Lori.... sounds like you had a fab time! And yes the leaving is a hard part! One day you might just do what a bunch of US have done.... Don’t leave, stay climbing!
Stay happy. 

Guy Keesee wrote: Lori.... sounds like you had a fab time! And yes the leaving is a hard part! One day you might just do what a bunch of US have done.... Don’t leave, stay climbing!
Stay happy. 

Don’t tease the animals, Gus.   I don’t need one more word of encouragement to stay.  Someone will have to come find me and fetch me home.   

Lori Milas wrote:

Don’t tease the animals, Gus.   I don’t need one more word of encouragement to stay.  Someone will have to come find me and fetch me home.   

 Oh you can say that all you like but when summer hits you’re out of there! 

So Bob has a two-day anchor class, max 3 people. He teaches as he guides, but I can only imagine that this class is solid. (And I’m missing it this trip). After all his years climbing he is still methodical and precise. Might be too slow/boring for some but I think it’s right for me. We run through the drill (anchor-belayer-climber) every single time. Spine of carbiner and ATC have to be aligned. Knots dressed. Quick draws placed correctly. Every time.  I’ve learned to tap rock to feel what’s solid, hollow or rotten. 

When not climbing we’re watching other climbers and it’s quite something to see setups that can so easily result in hard swings or falls. Bob cringes. I look away.

I get the smugness towards inexperienced climbers and topropers (like myself).  Even I get frustrated to find a 10b climb is now a 10d because it’s been overclimbed, or holds chipped off. Don’t know about the ethic of sawing off bolts that piss off experienced climbers (to keep less experienced climbers off the routes). 

Lori Milas wrote: So Bob has a two-day anchor class, max 3 people. He teaches as he guides, but I can only imagine that this class is solid. (And I’m missing it this trip). After all his years climbing he is still methodical and precise. Might be too slow/boring for some but I think it’s right for me. We run through the drill (anchor-belayer-climber) every single time. Spine of carbiner and ATC have to be aligned. Knots dressed. Quick draws placed correctly. Every time.  I’ve learned to tap rock to feel what’s solid, hollow or rotten.

When not climbing we’re watching other climbers and it’s quite something to see setups that can so easily result in hard swings or falls. Bob cringes. I look away.

I get the smugness towards inexperienced climbers and topropers (like myself).  Even I get frustrated to find a 10b climb is now a 10d because it’s been overclimbed, or holds chipped off. Don’t know about the ethic of sawing off bolts that piss off experienced climbers (to keep less experienced climbers off the routes). 

Bob's every-time anchor drill sounds like a very good thing.

I don't think chopping bolts is done for the purpose of keeping less experienced or less skilled climbers off the routes. There's a climbing "ethic" that the climber who does the first ascent decides whether and how many bolts to place. Some routes are bolder than others. In some cases, the routes were done before climbers started (routinely) bolting. It's considered bad form to add bolts without the original climber's consent. Here in CO, climbers decide whether to replace old and possibly unsafe bolts and anchors with new ones. I've not participated in those committees, so I can't say exactly how that works. But it reflects respect for how a climb was originally done.

A slightly different situation is when the first ascensionist puts up a new, bolted route in an area where routes are traditionally not bolted or the bolts are less closely spaced, so it's considered aesthetically ugly. Similarly if bolts are placed right next to good crack placements.

 Lori marry him!

Lori Milas wrote:I get the smugness towards inexperienced climbers and topropers (like myself).  Even I get frustrated to find a 10b climb is now a 10d because it’s been overclimbed, or holds chipped off. Don’t know about the ethic of sawing off bolts that piss off experienced climbers (to keep less experienced climbers off the routes). 

You know, in my honest opinion the hand-wringing about how J-tree is overwhelmed and "ruined" is way overwrought. Small sections of J-tree are overused. And the camping situation is pretty beat. But there are THOUSANDS of named climbs in J-tree alone. Probably 150 get regular, daily use. Between Ryan Campground and Indian Cove you could still hike for days through the Wonderland of Rocks and put up a lot of first ascents, if that's your thing. And that's just J-tree. The rest of CA is filled with places to climb without another soul for miles. 

Tim Lutz wrote: I heard Jtree and Yos are Poo-cylypse these days

Lori can weigh in on that, I'm sure, since she's there.