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Training stemming and dihedrals

Original Post
Peter M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 10

I'm looking for more pratice in stemming with smooth dihedrals and I was wondering what you guys are doing that don't have access to a quaility route that easily. I think I remember Mike reardon training for romantic warrior and he was stemming in a parking garage corner? But I don't have easy access too one of those either. Any advice is great, thanks guys.

Steve Pulver · · Williston, ND · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 460

No idea if it helps, but have hoped I would get some cross over from just doing yoga.

Peter M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 10
Steve Pulver wrote: No idea if it helps, but have hoped I would get some cross over from just doing yoga.

Yeah better flexibility is totally gonna help. I do good stretching after training but I think adding a yoga day would be really benefical

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,473

Some of the best climbing gyms have great dihedrals. Like the Gravity Vault gyms around metro NY/NJ.
And their routesetters have gotten creative to exploit those features to create brilliant dihedral / stemming routes in the 5.10-13 range.

Only problem is that lots of _outdoor_ dihedrals then seem a bit boring after working on those.

Ken

Peter M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 10
kenr wrote: Some of the best climbing gyms have great dihedrals. Like the Gravity Vault gyms around metro NY/NJ.
And their routesetters have gotten creative to exploit those features to create brilliant dihedral / stemming routes in the 5.10-13 range.

Only problem is that lots of _outdoor_ dihedrals then seem a bit boring after working on those.

Ken

Yeah, the one or two dihedrals we have in our gym have slick wood walls and the usually the holds are to big around there to make it difficult. From what I've gathered I just need to pony up and lead so I can set up a rope on some 11s in my area and run some laps. 

IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

Ask the gym to set a dihedral with some smaller holds? Also, the stemming doesn't need to be too difficult to build hip flexer muscles and flexibility.

Mark Straub · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 295
kenr wrote:Only problem is that lots of _outdoor_ dihedrals then seem a bit boring after working on those.

You need to get on some better outdoor dihedrals!  The second pitch of Moratorium has a phenomenal stemming crux.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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