Sport climbing shoes

Hi all,

I have tc pros for trad climbing/long multi pitch.

I’m looking for the “tc pro” of sport climbing.  I’m looking for something good on techy face, comfortable (not mythos or tc pro-comfy, but fairly comfy), could be worn for thin cracks, and bearable for a few pitches at a time.  

I rarely do overhung sport climbing, but I may in the future.  I had katana lace shoes but they were too painful.  Maybe that’s because they were a half size too small.

Thanks!

Properly sized Katana Laces would be a good option.  I would also try Five Ten Anasazis.  Either the Tan VCS or Pink Lace depending on your preference.

Personally, for sport climbing, I like velcro shoes. Easier to get on and off. I love my Sportiva Otaki's. If you're set on laces, the Kataki's are the laced version of the Otaki's. These are downturned but not as aggressive as, say Solutions, but definitely give you the ability to be precise.

I like the Katana lace shoe.  They are a little bit wider than LaSportiv'a other agressive shoes like the Muira's, i.e. they don't hurt as much.  

Miura Laces are the "TC Pro" of sport climbing for me, one of the better edging shoes I've used. Enough so that they've replaced my TC Pros on a lot of thin trad routes as well. Definitely not the most sensitive or easy to use on very overhung terrain though if that's what you're going for.

Brian wrote: I like the Katana lace shoe.  They are a little bit wider than LaSportiv'a other agressive shoes like the Muira's, i.e. they don't hurt as much.  

Katana Laces are significantly narrower than Miuras, unless you’re referring to the Miura Laces.

If you are not doing hard overhanging face I would just stick with the TC Pros if they are comfortable.  

Ted Pinson wrote:

Katana Laces are significantly narrower than Miuras, unless you’re referring to the Miura Laces.

ted you have a link to the video? intensely curious

Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:

ted you have a link to the video? intensely curious

That's just a standard chart from la sportivas website, i think i remember epic tv using it in a video a while ago.

Ted Pinson wrote: Properly sized Katana Laces would be a good option.  I would also try Five Ten Anasazis.  Either the Tan VCS or Pink Lace depending on your preference.

+1.  I use TC pros for most trad/multipitch.  Katana Laces for sport.  Before the katanas I used the anasazi vcs and they were great but not as aggressive as the Katanas which is why I switched (I also prefer tie to velcro).  Great options! 

Ted Pinson wrote:

Katana Laces are significantly narrower than Miuras, unless you’re referring to the Miura Laces.

I am referring to Muira laces which are shown for narrow feet.  The Katana's are much more comfortable than the Muiras for me.  Maybe it has to do with the "medium asymmetry" vs. the "high asymmetry" which proves that you really need to try on shoes vs going from a chart or opinions on the Internet.  https://www.sportiva.com/media/wysiwyg/Product_Charts/ClimbingComparisonChart2017_lowres_Page_2.jpg 

Ted Pinson wrote:

Katana Laces are significantly narrower than Miuras, unless you’re referring to the Miura Laces.

Sportiva's chart says that but it isn't true. In the same size the Katana Lace is quite obviously wider than both the Miura Lace and Miura VS.

To the point of the thread though, any of the three of those shoes are a viable choice. Try them all. Of the three I prefer the Miura VS.