Dropped Gear Protocol

You’re replacing an old c4 with a totem? You can go climbing with me anytime. Fair warning, I’m going to surreptitiously cut the gear sling before I hand the rack to you.

Alternatively I do offer intensive climbing partner therapy courses for far less than the going rate.

Briggs Lazalde wrote:

Yes and when I come climb with you, I'm bringing my used rack of C4s ill purchase off here before I come. Ill have you show me how each of them work, way up high of course, and ill have my fingers crossed.

Yeah I have some C4s that you could Chuck off the mountain and replace with Totems. Let me know when you can come climbing.

Roy Suggett wrote: Off the topic a bit...or not, but I thought that if a piece of gear (cam, biner, belay device) was dropped from some distance, said piece might have developed micro cracks that could lead to failure.  If in fact this is true, total replacement with a new piece would seem prudent.

facepalm.

Reading this thread makes me glad that I only climb with partners with whom I don't have to worry about squabbling about damage to gear, responsibility, and sterilized terms like "protocol." (Excuse me sir, could you please enter your crux protocol for route #1.23.76(a) onto the spreadsheet by Friday?)  If gear gets damaged due to my own ineptitude, I'll replace it, and all my partners would, too.  When we start a multipitch, we may informally agree that any dropped gear gets replaced 50/50, and if it gets dropped because of a rookie maneuver, we'll just talk shit on the victim at the bar afterward.  Not a huge deal.

I've never had conflict about "protocol" arise because I don't climb with goobers.

I managed to lose three of Joe Szot's screws on Power Play when one of those stupid plastic clips someone talked me into using came open. (We were using Joe's screws because for some reason no one ever wants to climb on my shit). The worst part about that was stopping in the crux section to place a screw and realizing I only had two left, and I needed to build an anchor at the top of the pitch. We talked about it after and he said two would be fine, but I went ahead and bought three new ones for him because, well, it was Joe.

Fehim Hasecic wrote: Upon reading this tread and some reflection, I think it’s time for us to start seeing other people Hugh. Your obsession with your goods made me realize that it was never about us, I was just another tool that you used to feed your addiction. I’ve spent so many hours giving you attentive belays, encouraging you when occasion arose, sacrificing my family time so you can yet again fail on one of your projects. After the judgement in this thread I’m not sure I’ll be able to handle your nuts like before. I made but one mistake, fumbled with your cam and let it slide down the coarse granite and instead of words of comfort you immediately judged me. I was hurt, still am. How can we stay together if I’m not able to handle your goods anymore? Since you always looked up to the older gents (Scarpelli, Donini, Stone Masters), maybe it’s time for you to explore this alley. I’ll always cherish the moments we had, knowing even though our journey had to end it was a magical experience. Here’s few memories dear to my heart:

You’ll receive your replacement cam in mail (what’s your address again)

Oh my, you know no one handles my nuts like you, buddy.  Obviously, I need to be contrite and offer apologizes, flowers, and my undying devotion.  Would endless belays on projects of your choice overcome my infidelity on MP?  I need you!  (And esp those totums, brah!)  If we could work through that "incident" with the Vegas stripper, we can get through this!  What can I do to win back your love?!

Em Cos wrote:

Unsightly is in the eye of the beholder... but as was mentioned earlier in this thread, cams can have fragile egos and it may be traumatized. Since the damage is aesthetic, perhaps you can offer to spring for some nice nail polish in a few bright colors, and pretty up that cam a bit, or even the whole rack?

I see. I was marked with nail polish so strangers don’t take me home with them 

Well played, everyone. Well played.

Tim Stich wrote:

Your elders were weenies.

Thought I would hi-light some of the comments made about my replies....you know to show how well some climbers here articulate their opinions...

Jeremy Bentham wrote:

Your ex-guide mentors were and still are goofs and poltroons! Bring them into this, your century, and allow them to let go of ridiculous superstitions. I suppose they still hip belay with coils of hemp, too? Dunderheads!

Nice and classy....

Roots wrote:

Nice and classy....

I interpret it as parody.

Jon Frisby wrote:

talking about your overly dainty liability policy not your irrational fears

Oh I missed another comment that...well...basically seems on par with the others.

I'm all for talking about subjects like this and having fun with humor (aka parody) but ...?. And I evolve just like climbing does overtime time but to resort to name calling.....whatever happened to the "climbing brotherhood"?

The bottom line is that there is no rule in this regard that has to be followed by all. What matters is what you and your partner decides works for both of you.

Dropped gear is always replaced with new gear. Don't like the rules? Be more careful with my shit. 

Roots, I also do general therapy at prices well below the going rate. 

Roots wrote: I'm all for talking about subjects like this and having fun with humor (aka parody) but ...?. And I evolve just like climbing does overtime time but to resort to name calling.....whatever happened to the "climbing brotherhood"?

Roots wrote: I'm all for talking about subjects like this and having fun with humor (aka parody) but ...?. And I evolve just like climbing does overtime time but to resort to name calling.....whatever happened to the "climbing brotherhood"?

The bottom line is that there is no rule in this regard that has to be followed by all. What matters is what you and your partner decides works for both of you.

The “climbing brotherhood” you speak of pretty much means we will stick together against non-climbers not that we will always agree and get along. 

Adrienne DiRosario wrote:

I used to believe this. I once dropped my partner’s #3 100’ and watched as it bounced off the cliff multiple times on the way down. I was insistent on buying her a new one until a friend offered to scan it for us. Not a micro fracture to be found! She happily re-racked it. 

Might I ask how it was scanned?

Mark Andes wrote: Lashes...with the cam if we found it....one lash for each foot of the fall....times two if I liked the cam.

Submitting my vote for this to be come the new de facto rule. 

I LOVE A GOOD TROLL! :D ...this thread has a few

Adrienne DiRosario wrote:

I used to believe this. I once dropped my partner’s #3 100’ and watched as it bounced off the cliff multiple times on the way down. I was insistent on buying her a new one until a friend offered to scan it for us. Not a micro fracture to be found! She happily re-racked it. 

Metal doens't "micro fracture". This is FAKE NEWS. It's a made up word that doesn't apply to metals. What happens when an overpass gets hit by a semi? They bend the girder back into shape. What happened when the WTC was hit with airplanes? NO "MICRO FRACTURES". On a molecular scale metals are a basically a SEA of cations that share electrons. Any "micro fracture" that could form would be filled with ions. Metals STRETCH, BEND and EVENTUALLY SNAP, they don't "micro fracture". Bones micro fracture, concrete micro fractures, metals BEND.

Next time someone drops the carabiner on their keychain in the parking lot and exclaims that they need a new carabiner, point at them. Tell them they are a part of the problem. They live in a fake world with fake words. Show them a video on youtube of a tensile strength test. If they still don't believe you, SHUN THEM.