How to carry gear to the climb?

Hi all, I'm wondering how to carry gear on a four mile approach to a 10 pitch climb. I believe we'll be doing mostly an out-and-back except for a short loop around the mountain (get to the climb, climb up one side, come back down and return to the approach trail). Should I plan on carrying a light 35 liter pack, or should I plan on backpacking the rope and tossing the gear on the harness? I've done the gear-on-harness approach for two miles and found it just ok. What do you all do in these cases where a pack is possible (we'd have to rack up once we get to the place where the approach diverges from the descent) but potentially unnecessary?

Also any tips on transitioning from trad multipitch (Yosemite, Lover's Leap, Red Rocks) to alpine (13k feet) would be appreciated!

~20L backpack.  I use and love a TUFA Mochilla pack - they are awesome!! You should easily be able to fit everything in a pack that size with a rope draped over the top, unless it's particularly cold out.

Whether you use a pack is personal preference, but if you do, keep it as small as possible and reasonable. Personally, I don't like having everything on my harness when hiking or climbing, so I bring a pack.

Edit: Why would you be carrying the rope and the rack? Your partner should be carrying one of those.

+1 for the TUFA Mochilla. Best climbing day pack out there and Josh is a pleasure to work with. 

I'd either be carrying the rope or the rack. Backpacking the rope is easy enough. Fitting the rack into my 18L pack with jackets would be tough to say the least.

I carry a hydration pack that has about 18L or so extra capacity for small alpine rack, layers, etc (its an older Camelbak called the blowfish). If i'm charged with the rope i carry the rope on back alpine backpack style just to the side of my pack. takes a few tries to get it right, but works well. Anything over 4 miles or an especially heinous approach (think W. Ridge of Mt. Conness), i go with the 30-35L climbing pack, and whilst climbing i just cinch it down as compact as possible and it never bothers me too bad. Granted most stuff i do in the alpine is less than 5.10.

As far as transitioning, i don't think the skills are that much different. just go lighter and be in better shape. Exercise and acclimate at altitude and you'll obviously be better prepared for the transition.

Kyle Robson wrote: I'd either be carrying the rope or the rack. Backpacking the rope is easy enough. Fitting the rack into my 18L pack with jackets would be tough to say the least.

If you have, or get, a 22L pack, you can fit a rack of doubles, slings and draws,  climbing shoes, 2 liters of water, lunch and an extra layer. Maybe wear an empty harness. Did this two days ago.

Dallin Carey wrote: +1 for the TUFA Mochilla. Best climbing day pack out there and Josh is a pleasure to work with. 

Looks like an interesting pack. When I have to carry over I tend to carry a 28L pack and it just fits all the crap I carry. In the packing video on the TUFA site he is packing a "double rack" that looks light to me ( no # 3 or #4, not enough double length runners), maybe I am just a wimp and carry too much gear though. Do you find that you can fit everything you need for a long multi-pitch climb that is at your limit? 

To the OP: Any steep snow sections on the approach?

Anything over 4 miles or an especially heinous approach (think W. Ridge of Mt. Conness)

Hah! That's what I'm doing. I'll drive up with both 35L and 18L packs and if I get stuck with the rack I'll see what I can do to fit it in the 18L, if not I'll probably pack the 18 in the 35 and switch to the 18 on the last part of the approach.

To the OP: Any steep snow sections on the approach?

I think early season there is snow, but I'm not expecting much right now. I could be wrong. I'll drive up with an ice axe and crampons but I'm guessing we won't climb with them.

Dude, that little sack of nylon is $140!! (Unless you want a daisy chain on it, then it's $160.) If you're rolling like that why not hire an Italian supermodel to carry your stuff to the base?

Ashort wrote:

Looks like an interesting pack. When I have to carry over I tend to carry a 28L pack and it just fits all the crap I carry. In the packing video on the TUFA site he is packing a "double rack" that looks light to me ( no # 3 or #4, not enough double length runners), maybe I am just a wimp and carry too much gear though. Do you find that you can fit everything you need for a long multi-pitch climb that is at your limit? 

To the OP: Any steep snow sections on the approach?

I am able to fit:

A double rack from BD .1-.75 and one #1-3
A full set of BD nuts and nut tool
6 Petzl ice screws and v thread tool
6 alpine draws and extra cord
4 lockers and slings for anchors
Belay device and prussik
2 pairs of climbing gloves
1 pair of belay gloves
Food for the day
1 MSR Windburner stove
1 1.5L Water bottle
A winter weight belay jacket.
I haven't tried but I'm pretty sure I could fit my Thermarest Neoair Xtherm in the sleeve as well
Tools and crampons go on the outside, rope on the top.

Ideally you and your partner will be splitting the rack or one takes the rack and the other has the rope so that will give you slightly more room.

Josh has essentially recreated Mary Poppins' bag for the alpine.

Short Fall Sean wrote: Dude, that little sack of nylon is $140!! (Unless you want a daisy chain on it, then it's $160.) If you're rolling like that why not hire an Italian supermodel to carry your stuff to the base?

True, for that price you can get a dyneema cilogear sack!

​​​​ is far enough to hire a sherpa or rent a mule.  

Good luck.  

I have a camelback and an extra bladder.  I drink one on the hike and have one for the climb/hike-out.  That way you can roll it up and save space when its empty.

Also, I bought the 'nylon sack' and have beaten it for a year and it does not show signs of quitting.  I'd hate to think I spent 140 on it, but if I did, I forgot and am glad I have the TUFA (supermodel sherpa would be nice too though).

Steve

I stuff my ~15L small climbing pack (with water, extra layers, snack, etc) inside a larger pack, along with either rope or rack (split those with your partner), harness, helmet, climbing shoes for long approaches. Then rack up and leave the larger pack at base of climb or wherever approach & descent trails split. Also usually leave an extra water bottle in the large pack for the hike out.  I just don’t like wearing harness/gear, or having rope snag on branches/bushes on really long approaches. It’s purely personal preference. 

Short Fall Sean wrote: Dude, that little sack of nylon is $140!! (Unless you want a daisy chain on it, then it's $160.) If you're rolling like that why not hire an Italian supermodel to carry your stuff to the base?

Now taking applications to be my supermodel pack carrier!

if you are climbing in the alpine, better get used to climbing with a pack. it's just part of the game. i've done everything from a small 18 L up to a 45 L, all depending on the approach, climb, time of year and gear required.

the only real advice i can give for a pack: don't cut yourself short. don't force yourself into a smaller pack because you are worried about weight. don't leave that rain jacket at home because you think the 1 lb it saves will make or break your day (not having it will make or brake your day). think smart and critically. what are the risks? is the approach complicated with difficult route finding? if yes, bring the extra bottle of water...

regarding your last question, you need to start thinking more like a mountaineer than a climber. worry more about weather, approaches and route conditions. consider the remoteness of your objectives and what to do in an emergency... it's a whole different ballgame.

Ashort wrote:

Looks like an interesting pack. When I have to carry over I tend to carry a 28L pack and it just fits all the crap I carry. In the packing video on the TUFA site he is packing a "double rack" that looks light to me ( no # 3 or #4, not enough double length runners), maybe I am just a wimp and carry too much gear though. Do you find that you can fit everything you need for a long multi-pitch climb that is at your limit? 

To the OP: Any steep snow sections on the approach?

That video is me, and I could fit several runners and 3 on top of that stuff if I wanted. The 4 would probably get strapped to the outside, or, more likely, inside with something else outside.

Brian Abram wrote:

That video is me, and I could fit several runners and 3 on top of that stuff if I wanted. The 4 would probably get strapped to the outside, or, more likely, inside with something else outside.

Thanks for the reply! 

Do you think I could fit all of that plus a 3L bladder?

Ashort wrote:

Thanks for the reply! 

Do you think I could fit all of that plus a 3L bladder?

Probably not without 3 more liters of stuff strapped to the outside, hobo style

Kyle Robson wrote: Hah! That's what I'm doing. I'll drive up with both 35L and 18L packs and if I get stuck with the rack I'll see what I can do to fit it in the 18L, if not I'll probably pack the 18 in the 35 and switch to the 18 on the last part of the approach.

I think early season there is snow, but I'm not expecting much right now. I could be wrong. I'll drive up with an ice axe and crampons but I'm guessing we won't climb with them.

This is a good strategy. As you may know, you can stash stuff at the "sandy plateau" before the descent gully (heinous). You'll be able to easily get it back when you walk off the summit later and retrace your steps to the last notch you passed through on the approach in.