La Sportiva Genius no edge shoes

Alright, I am about to try a pair of La Spo's shoes with no edge technology and wondering what everyone else is thinking, Likes and dislikes, different footing techniques, good/bad indoors or outdoor, what kind of climbing or rock are they good for...
Tell me all the things...

I love mine. Very comfortable, incredible sensitivity, and great sticky rubber. Check out the reviews on outdoorgearlab.com.

I like them. Big change coming from the mythos I had previously. I am a size 40.5 in most la sportiva shoes and found that to work for the genius as well. Been using them for only about a month, so no sense for how they'll hold up over time yet.

I haven't put my new ones through the paces, but they are crazy light (like wearing minimalist shoes). The no-edge things seems to match the hype. 

Seem to work really well for me on polished limestone. Don’t really edge any better for me than solutions but really seem good on slick small edges. 

Paul...as the previous posters have stated the Geniuses are light, sticky, and sensitive, but it takes a few outings to wrap your head around how to place the edgeless shoe on footholds, especially if you have worn a good edging shoe in the past. It's a quality problem for sure.

I had 3-4 pairs of the Futura, and recently moved to the Genius. Big fan of both of them.

Love them/no edge technology... you get used to it fast. Using the Futuras as gym shoes, Genius for hard outdoor, and TC Pros for trad, multi... never been happier with my shoe quiver.

I love my Futuras - also No-Edge - in the gym (mainly because of durability and the fact you have to be more precise with your feet on steep terrain) or outdoor edging routes that aren’t super steep.  I prefer Solutions for pocket climbing as the Futuras have a very blunt toe that doesn’t fit as well in pocket footholds.  

Didn't take long to get used to the no-edge. Put your foot on hold, foot sticks to hold, voila! I was such a fan when I got these, that I bought a pair of Maverinks for gym climbing. My feet get pretty tired after a couple hours of bouldering in the Maverinks, but have been very happy with the no-edge rubber on all type of terrain.

How about resoling? Any experience anyone? 

Rock and Resole in Boulder does no edge resoles 

Piotr Sobczak wrote: How about resoling? Any experience anyone? 

I have 2 pairs of Geniuses. The first pair has been resoled, and I'm climbing in them currently. Rock and Resole does them, and uses the certified La Sportiva spare rubber piece for it, so it's as good as brand new. (There is an additional $10 charge, since they can't use sheet rubber.) My second pair is currently at Rock and Resole for its first resole.

I also have a buddy who has Geniuses, and has had them resoled once (also at Rock and Resole). His came back, and after a few climbing sessions, the new rubber started coming up at the edge on the toe of one shoe. R&R fixed it for free, expedited (one-week turnaround, iirc).

Andrew Krajnik wrote:

I have 2 pairs of Geniuses. The first pair has been resoled, and I'm climbing in them currently. Rock and Resole does them, and uses the certified La Sportiva spare rubber piece for it, so it's as good as brand new. (There is an additional $10 charge, since they can't use sheet rubber.) My second pair is currently at Rock and Resole for its first resole.

I also have a buddy who has Geniuses, and has had them resoled once (also at Rock and Resole). His came back, and after a few climbing sessions, the new rubber started coming up at the edge on the toe of one shoe. R&R fixed it for free, expedited (one-week turnaround, iirc).

I wonder if they can do the no edge resole far any shoe??

jason.cre wrote:

I wonder if they can do the no edge resole far any shoe??

I've wondered that as well. I also wonder if they'd do en edged resole on an edgeless shoe, though I'm only academically curious; it's not something I'd ever do.

When you put in an edgeless model, it defaults to edgeless rubber for the extra $10. Not sure if you could change that to a different rubber (or if you could pick the edgeless option for a standard shoe.)

Andrew Krajnik wrote:

I've wondered that as well. I also wonder if they'd do en edged resole on an edgeless shoe, though I'm only academically curious; it's not something I'd ever do.

When you put in an edgeless model, it defaults to edgeless rubber for the extra $10. Not sure if you could change that to a different rubber (or if you could pick the edgeless option for a standard shoe.)

I have seen photos of this done on a few different shoes. Here are a pair (photo stolen from this thread). 

Tom V wrote: Rock and Resole in Boulder does no edge resoles 

Did they actually do this for you? I've requested this of them in the past with my Speedsters and they came back with an edge.

Yes, I had 1 pair of futuras resoled by them with no-edge. I did have another pair come back with an edge in another case. No real clarification why, but I assume it was due to some damage to the rand that prevented no-edge resoling.

Forgive me for going back to basic, but what is the whole idea behind no edge? How is it different than your gym shoe that has been rounded out due to your shitty ass footwork?

jason.cre wrote: Forgive me for going back to basic, but what is the whole idea behind no edge? How is it different than your gym shoe that has been rounded out due to your shitty ass footwork?

IMO it’s very similar. I was an exclusive Miura Lace guy for many years, and my ‘sweet spot’ was always after a few months of breaking them in and having the edge round out a bit and they’d become smedging machines. I got a pair of Geniuses about a year ago because I wanted something more aggressive, and found that the No Edge was basically getting the sweet spot out of the box with no break in.

I got my solutions resoled as no edge and they’re certainly different.  I don’t have anything to compare unfortunately.  But they have taken some getting used to indoors and I’m trying them outdoors this weekend.  I’ll keep everyone updated