Gordon's Hangover pillar is loose

The classic sit down rest "bicycle seat" pillar at the junction of Gordon's Hangover, and Gordon's Direct is loose. Gravel, sand, twigs, and leaves were pouring out of the bottom today the moment it was touched. There is a crack along the base of the pillar where it begins to widen. If it falls it will do some severe damage to the base area. Heads up!

I got dibs on the new name.  "Gordon's Hungover":

Gordon Fell-over?

We were on it last week and I thought it felt looser.  Sand and twigs falling out of it is not a good sign.

Be careful compadres..

If it gets any looser maybe the LCC climbers tribunal should rule on trundling it in the middle of the night..

Crowbar(s).

Tirejack.

Be sure to have video rolling.

Video! Yes please. And without that pedestal, does anyone else think that thing gets a wee bit harder? 

Dang that sit down rest was sweet! I always thought the big flake on the finishing traverse was suspect too.

+1 more for the safe trundle

Charlie S wrote: Gordon Fell-over?

We were on it last week and I thought it felt looser.  Sand and twigs falling out of it is not a good sign.

Damn... that is a better name.

Need to take a look at it, but the pillar provides a nice stance in which to launch into the flake, if it's gone the route could be a lot harder. The pillar is quite historical.

Wonder if it's possible to chain the flake to the wall?

I hear those sport climber types will use glue to keep limestone from falling apart.

Paging Aleks for training program to fuse rocks together with bare hands.

bsmoot wrote
Wonder if it's possible to chain the flake to the wall?

This is either an awesome joke or the worst idea ever.  

Luke Bertelsen wrote:

This is either an awesome joke or the worst idea ever.  

Been done before. You should look at BSmoot’s resume...the guy knows what he’s talking about.

Luke Bertelsen wrote:

This is either an awesome joke or the worst idea ever.  

See rocker block on moonlight buttress 

Jake wander wrote:

See rocker block on moonlight buttress 

It has been done, but Gordon's Hangover and Moonlight Buttress aren't on the same scale. One is a local classic and one is the most famous sandstone bigwall in the world. My vote is to trundle it, even if that means making GH and GHD harder. 

That said, if someone chains the flake to the wall, I'm not going to freak out, scream on the internet, and chop the bolts. It doesn't really matter. 

C Archibolt wrote:

That said, if someone chains the flake to the wall, I'm not going to freak out, scream on the internet, and chop the bolts. It doesn't really matter. 

Don't worry. There will be plenty of others to take up the outrage. Check the thread on bolted rap anchors on the Stately Pleasure Dome descent.

Marc801 C wrote:

Don't worry. There will be plenty of others to take up the outrage. Check the thread on bolted rap anchors on the Stately Pleasure Dome descent.

Or the rap anchor installed on School Room. Holy Hannah. 

C Archibolt wrote:

It has been done, but Gordon's Hangover and Moonlight Buttress aren't on the same scale. One is a local classic and one is the most famous sandstone bigwall in the world. My vote is to trundle it, even if that means making GH and GHD harder. 

That said, if someone chains the flake to the wall, I'm not going to freak out, scream on the internet, and chop the bolts. It doesn't really matter. 

hey sorry, didnt mean to sound like i thought this specific column should be chained to the wall, just was stating that it is something thats done and isnt that outrageous of an idea.

Jake wander wrote:

hey sorry, didnt mean to sound like i thought this specific column should be chained to the wall, just was stating that it is something thats done and isnt that outrageous of an idea.

Got it. And agree. It's not an outrageous idea. 

Luke Bertelsen wrote:

This is either an awesome joke or the worst idea ever.  

This reply is respectfully submitted.
Brian Smoot is one of the most thoughtful, introspective, and talented climbers I know, and is truly an icon and legend in the Wasatch. He has established numerous bold routes in the Cottonwood Canyons. He is a Wasatch guidebook author.
 His suggestion of chaining a flake in place should be taken seriously. Gordon’s Hangover, is in fact, one of the most iconic routes in the range.
 I am not suggesting that I agree or disagree with
Brian’s suggestion. I am suggesting that his opinion, (and that of others) be heard and considered  with respect. Disrespectful statements are the bane of on-line forums, and forum administrators should bear a special burden in this regard.