City of Rocks this weekend (9/14) Rock City Friday night??

EDIT: I got a generous offer for a camping space, thanks! I'd be totally stoked to meet any of you who are there, so if the pizza joint is open Friday 9/14, I'll  head there for dinner. Come say howdy! Ditto if you see me out and around this weekend at  COR!!! Silver Honda CR-V, by her stickers you shall know her. :-) Also I'm 4' 11" and old. There's that.
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I'm arriving mid day Friday, and staying through the weekend. I'll look into getting something when I arrive, and I can always go camp with the cows. But. It would be nice(r) to have a home base, with a table and fire pit!

MP, this is also your heads up! Trip is on! I'm pretty sure I've got partners lined up, but I'm plenty stoked to meet any of you who are there. I'll update when I know where I'm staying, etc.

STOKED!!!!!!

Best, Helen

Hey Helen,
Girlfriend and I will be at City of Rocks from Thursday evening til Sunday morning and we have a campsite reserved for all three nights. We’re sleeping in our car so there’ll be plenty of room for other folks in the site, and we welcome the company! We’ll be in Area 2, Site 004. We are planning to get there around 5 or 6pm Thursday but feel free to set up camp there any time.

Thanks sooooo much! PM shortly

Best, Helen

MPers, come say howdy if you're there this weekend!

Best, Helen

be sure to order your pizza before 8pm. they have a strict policy regarding this.

Be sure to let me know what your moderate favorites are, we are starting to put together our tick list for 9/23-30. 

Dallas R wrote: Be sure to let me know what your moderate favorites are, we are starting to put together our tick list for 9/23-30. 

Trad: Carol's Crack, Skyline, Private Idaho, Bat Wings, Rye Crisp

Bolts: Cruel Shoes, Theater of Shadows, Big Time (Castle Rock), Alpinista Sista (Castle), Coo Coo Cachoo (Castle), Roller Coaster, Just Say No, Red Rib (Castle)

Dallas R wrote: Be sure to let me know what your moderate favorites are, we are starting to put together our tick list for 9/23-30. 

Define moderate.

Dallas R wrote: Be sure to let me know what your moderate favorites are, we are starting to put together our tick list for 9/23-30. 

Dallas, I loved Poking Holes in the Firmament (sport lead!), enjoyed my first friction slab on the super easy Warrior Rock (although the left route was a problem for me, height,  downclimbed a bit, then jumped and was lowered, went back on top rope) and Swiss Cheese (on top rope). But the highlight of the trip was following a trad climb, with super experienced climbers. Gallstone was pleasantly uncrowded, had fun, but couldn't get it to go, for me.

Have fun! Sure wish we'd been able to intersect! :-(

Best, Helen

Hey Helen, how were the crowds in general? Were you ever the only ones at a crag on Friday or Saturday?

Old lady H wrote:

Have fun! Sure wish we'd been able to intersect! :-(

Best, Helen

Thanks for suggestions.  I didn't know about the Wounded Warrior aspect of Warrior Wall.  That would be so cool belaying for wounded vets.  

Yeah, sorry I missed you.  Normally we are pretty free to do what we want, but then sometimes we long term obligations. Lifetime of work ethic won't let us cut and run when more fun can be had.   

Jason Whitcomb wrote:

Define moderate.

5.5-5.8, Jason I thought I had responded to this shortly after you posted it.  My internet situation is such that things sometimes don't get processed.  

Eric Duncan wrote:

Trad: Carol's Crack, Skyline, Private Idaho, Bat Wings, Rye Crisp

Bolts: Cruel Shoes, Theater of Shadows, Big Time (Castle Rock), Alpinista Sista (Castle), Coo Coo Cachoo (Castle), Roller Coaster, Just Say No, Red Rib (Castle)

Thanks for the suggestions Eric, Private Idaho 5.11, I wish.  We are more Big Time kind of people. I feel like a kid in a candy store running around and trying to decide.  Barb and I are going to have to set down this week and make a plan, otherwise we will waste a lot of time running around.

Lucas Ulmer wrote: Hey Helen, how were the crowds in general? Were you ever the only ones at a crag on Friday or Saturday?

Even though everything was reserved, it still didn't seem "crowded" to me. We weren't on the top tier stuff, though. We seemed to be the first ones, also, so that may have changed things too. It was such that you just waited for one party, or climbed the thing adjacent. Look at my ticks for a sense of where we were on those days.

Thanks again, you were so kind to give away your camping! That's a lot more remote, too, up at three sisters. I was reminded of this when I glanced up at the rock our site was tucked up against. 10 or so feet up, on top of a boulder? Was a rather fresh looking lower leg, with jagged skin attached. Either a small deer or maybe an antelope. Hmmmmm.... Not sure if it was there earlier, but I don't think so! :-)

Best, Helen

Dallas, I did Rollercoaster last year, and liked it, but that's it on that rock. I know you enjoyed Castle more than City, I'd say to go there again. On sport, the ratings are more true also, because it's so much newer. There are still surprises, though. Poptart has a spicy surprise, and is a rope stretcher! I'd try it again, though, when it isn't freezing like last year!

Best, Helen

Dallas R wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions Eric, Private Idaho 5.11, I wish.  We are more Big Time kind of people. I feel like a kid in a candy store running around and trying to decide.  Barb and I are going to have to set down this week and make a plan, otherwise we will waste a lot of time running around.

Nah Private Idaho has a consensus 5.9 rating, and most/some(?) say 5.8 if you got to the left of the wideness. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105740984/private-idaho

Poking Holes in the Firmament (short but fun) is right at the mouth of Hostess Gully which has a ton of moderate sport climbs, even a couple 2 pitch routes, ratings 5.7 to 5.10- (what i usually think of as moderate).

Dallas R wrote:

5.5-5.8, Jason I thought I had responded to this shortly after you posted it.  My internet situation is such that things sometimes don't get processed.  

I'll 2nd Carol's Crack and Skyline.  I would also recommend hesitation blues, Columbian crack, adolescent homos, and Fred Rasmussen as fun trad climbs in that range.  Rye crisp is a great climb, but a lot of people feel the protection is tough for a 5.8 leader.  I dont remember feeling that way, but I was given plenty of big gear before going up it the first time.  Batwings is a good climb, but I've always found the top of it to be pretty damn scary.

Thank you all for the feedback, but I feel bad because I hijacked Helen's thread.  I have printed out the above list and we will pore over it the rest of this week to make a plan. 

Dallas R wrote: Thank you all for the feedback, but I feel bad because I hijacked Helen's thread.  I have printed out the above list and we will pore over it the rest of this week to make a plan. 

No hijack, dear, you're just collecting beta for me for future trips! One of these years, we'll climb some of these together, perhaps?

;-)

Old lady H wrote:

Dallas, I loved Poking Holes in the Firmament (sport lead!),

Glad you liked!

But, what's up with that route's name?  Ha ha...