TC Pro suck at smearing. Resole???

I've resoled TC Ps w/ C4.  Didn't notice any change in the performance of the shoes.   Save your money and break them in fully first. 

I find most people have a weak core, and are afraid of getting their feet high, which is where the best center is for directing pressure for smearing. Who's gonna be that guy that brings up the old-generation pioneers wearing boots? It's all in technique. I've had my TCs resoled by Yosemite Bum, so, whatever rubber they use. I was just smearing up a 5.10b stem box with my TCs yesterday. I was fine. 

ChadMartino wrote: Tc Pros have P3. Not good for flexing the toe upward. The Sportiva Finales are excellent for smearing and super comfortable, cheap too.

Maverinks knock them out of the water for smearing, absolutely no midsole and xs grip 2. It's like super glue on your toes when it's below mid 50s. 

I hated my TC pros for anything but jamming when I first got them. Between the thick XS edge and stiff last I felt they did not stick well and I had no confidence climbing with them. I've since resoled them with XS grip 2 and I feel it is a marked improvement. I do wonder if weight has something to do with it. I think heavier people tend toward firmer rubber.

Ted Pinson wrote: So having compared TC Pros to Pinks on the same rock and same day I’ll say it’s a little silly how quickly people are rushing to their defense or blaming the climber.  Yes, a good climber can make just about any shoe work (Alex Honnold literally trusted his life to them), but there’s no doubt in my mind that C4 performs much better, especially at friction.  Wearing the Pinks felt like cheating, flat out.  In my awesome opinion, it’s less about “stickiness” and more about sensitivity.  Those of you who have put some serious mileage in have learned to trust the rubber (and when not to), but the proprioception you get from a sensitive shoe like a Mocc makes the process infinitely easier.  I don’t have the hard slab credentials to back up my opinions as some of you do, so YMMV, but at some point you may need to acknowledge that your skill may be compensating for the inherent weaknesses of the shoe.

OP, many people have done this and swear by it.  The general consensus is you get better slab performance (smearing) in exchange for not quite as good edging.

+1

I've compared TC Pros and Pinks on the same rock on the same day and there's a noticeable difference in friction performance. My TC Pros have softened up substantially from when they were new, but Edge is never going to be all that good at smearing. When it's time for a resole they're getting C4 or Grip2.

Nick Drake wrote:

Maverinks knock them out of the water for smearing, absolutely no midsole and xs grip 2. It's like super glue on your toes when it's below mid 50s. 

Haven’t tried the Maverinks, they look badass, like the old Speedsters. 

bruno-cx wrote: Always blame the equipment. You should be wearing solutions.

+1 for Solutions. Beth Rodden sent Meltdown in ‘em. Probably go a size larger than you would for bouldering.

that guy named seb wrote:

Edging, your more flexible shoe edges better?

Smearing, your down turned shoes smear better?

Cracks, what size? Almost any shoe can climb hands find but good fingers to off fingers are fucking horrendous with a high volume toe box like in the vapour.
I think you have just sized your tc pro's wrong.

You're saying that TC pros have a low profile toe box? The damn things are hard to wriggle in thin hands already, that toe is blunt and bulky. Vapor or katana laces have a far less blunt and lower volume toe. I can get some sole rubber in to somewhat jam pods in granite finger cracks with the vapor/katana that the tc pros are rand smearing only. 

And as far as downturn shoes smearing better, my dragos destroy the tc pro, katana, and vapor for delicate smearing. 

Love my TC Pros, but sent them off to be resoled with C4 when I got home from the first day of climbing in them - slippery suckers.