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Top rope anchor setup at Ragged Mountain CT

Original Post
Wolf L · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 136

Hello! I am planning to visit Ragged mountain in Connecticut soon. Looking for some beta on the top rope anchor situation at the main cliff.

Main question is do I really need a super long static rope for the anchor. I have a 45 meter static rope but would rather not bring it unless it's essential for many climbs. (YMC Route, Vector, Bombay, Carey Corner, etc.) I also have a 16 meter static rope, a 25ft 7mm cord and lots of trad gears and slings. I know how to build gear anchors. Please help! Thanks!

Robert Gregory · · Berlin, CT · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Bring your long static rope. The trees used for anchors are pretty far back from the edge of Main Cliff, so a 150 ft static rope is pretty standard for Ragged Mt.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Yes, I'd definitely bring your long static to Ragged--and most of the other Traprock crags as well. While there are a few places where it is reasonably straightforward to set up gear belays at the top of the cliff, many of the other such setups require complex and time-consuming placements to assure a safe anchor. Much easier on a brief, first time visit to use a long rope to the trees far back (not that many of them are that confidence-inspiring), despite the unpleasantness of lugging it up to the cliff. The routes you have on your ticklist are all very worthwhile, just be aware of Connecticut grades!!! Have a great visit.

Wolf L · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 136

Thanks!! 

Maynard · · Lisbon, ct · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1

You can use a cord and some slings for an anchor on unconquerable and subline. With a single rack, cord, and runners you can build an anchor for almost every climb there. Wet wall, Carey’s, Broadway, vector, weissners crack, tower. Ymc is an interesting one. .4 cam and lots of slings.

m russi · · New Haven, CT · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

IMO ragged works better when you settle into a routine of leading, building a gear anchor to belay up your seconds, hiking down and repeating. you'll get more routes in and avoid contributing to the scene that forms every weekend under the skull and bones block. after leading with a single rack i've never had trouble building safe gear anchors for all of the climbs mentioned above. have a great time!

Wolf L · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 136

Thank you! If I build a gear anchor at the top and belay up my second, do I have to do hanging belays?

Rock Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 309

Had to ignore my 100ft static and buy a 200ft static to TR there. Bring trad gear for more fun, but expect to be creative and use small trees with long ext for TR.

I don’t often build gear anchors on most routes due to lack of good placement or awkward stances.

Or bring a drill, some bolts and a giant pair of balls to pull off setting up bolted TR anchors.

Maynard · · Lisbon, ct · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1

No but I typically lower off and the second tr’s, drops the rope and walks off as you get ready for the next climb. Also watch out for copperheads.

m russi · · New Haven, CT · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

I've never done a hanging belay at Ragged

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

No, the top is pretty flat, so you set your anchors to let you sit near or on the edge. As some others have posted, it is possible, with some work, to set reasonable gear anchors for most of the climbs, but those leading the climbs and setting the anchors are primarily locals familiar with the area, the rock, the 'quirks'. I still think as a 'first timer' having a long static to set up top ropes will give you a better opportunity to familiarize yourself with the cliff and the rock. If you decide on the 'lead' approach, I'd strongly recommend starting on  routes a couple of grades below your regular leading level until you get a 'feel' for the area.

Wolf L · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 136

Thanks for all the beta! Much appreciated!!

Scott Sampietro · · Bloomfield, CT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 102

I second the Copperhead post. I am always on the lookout and still missed one last Saturday. Came down off Juniper Wall, sat down to take my shoes off. Got the left shoe off and went to take the right one off and just about jumped out of my skin when I saw the Copperhead curled up under my right leg about 3 inches from my hand.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

I'll 'third' the copperhead warning!!! It is uncanny how similar the coloring of the traprock is to that of the copperhead--almost perfect camouflage.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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