BD vs Metolius Hexes

Darren Mabe wrote:we definately need more cowbell.

Isn't that true in every aspect of life...

Jason Isherwood wrote: I feel the same way. I know they are "old school", however, in my experience I have found that they seem to fit my style of climbing. Call me crazy. I have placed "regular" hexes a fair amount during my limited leading experiences. Most of this climbing has been around the Flatirons and Eldo. I find them very useful and can really see myself placing them frequently off of my personal rack. After reading the responses I think I will forgo the full set and get larger sizes. I don't know why I am apprehensive to go with the curved ones, but for some reason I am. With that being said, I might just bite the bullet and get the Metolius Alpine set, I am sure I will grow to love them. It seems as though they will suit my needs the best. Avery, is there any particular reason you would avoid a wired set? Thanks for all the responses.

When comparing straight versus curved, I found curved much more versatile. They're just as bomber, too.

I love to place a bomber hex. However, my main problem is that no one else I climb with wants to place them. So they end up being a bit of a waste on most adventures. I guess I would feel the same if someone brought tri-cams.

I can say BD hexes when placed well are so utterly perfect you almost want to climb up 30 feet and lob off just to test it. Not that I'm into that, but I'll take a good hex over anything else. I usually carry 3 or 4 of the mid-sized ones (6,7,8, or 9) if I carry them at all. The big size get very bulky and I don't find placements as often (kind of like the "should we bring the #4 cam" debate) and you might as well just use nuts for the small ones.

They are great at belays, save weight instead of doubling up on cams. I typically bring them for more moderate alpine climbing. If it gets hard for me I'd rather have a bit more weight with more cams, but be able to quickly fire in more gear....sorry not at all answering the question about curved as I've never used them.

I'm definately going to give it to WC for their hexes. Stick with the big sizes and you won't regret them at some point in your climbing. I just gotta have some more COW BELL!

"I gotta have more hexes, baby!"

viva la resistance, cam free for life. Just say no to springs and triggers.

I like the Wild Country Hexentrics. I have the red, blue and yellow sizes, whatever those WC numbers are. Shape is great, and the slings are nice when you don't want the piece to get disrupted.

Kateri,

I didn't know you had such an affinity for hexes. Who taught you that?

Lee

Hey Lee! 'Sup?!?

I admit, I don't always carry hexes and tricams. When I'm on lead close to my limit (ok, it's not that high of a number), having a sewing machine leg, whimpering, cursing, and sweating bullets, I slam the cam. But on multipitch moderates, they're great. Light, fun to place, really flippin bomber.

Lee Smith wrote:Kateri, I didn't know you had such an affinity for hexes. Who taught you that? Lee

Cough, cough...

Clearly, she can't bring herself to mention the details. I'll claim sharing the moment of first hex placement in the Winds. A fond memory.

She had me eternally at that first placement...

Avery,

Truly a gentlemanly reply...and Kateri had me eternally when she caught me on one of my two leader falls in the last 20 years.

Kateri,

I don't believe you ever do the Elvis leg, whimper, curse or sweat bullets...well OK cursing maybe. And that pretty cool "whee-haa" on Supremacy.

BUMP

I had a discussion with a climbing buddy that swears Curved Hexes are best. My experience has been the curved DMM Torque nuts I have dont' sit well in parallel sided cracks, making contact with only the ridges of the concave side and some of the curve of the convex side. Their opinioin, Curved nuts are better, therefore curved hexes.

Anyone care to opine?

You resurrected a 10 year old thread about hexes??? Really???

IMO depends on the rock.  Curved hexes are better for...curvy cracks (Sandstone, granite), straight hexes are better for smoother, straighter cracks (like Devil’s Lake quartzite).  Both are more trouble than they’re worth on lead.

By far the DMM Torque. See the review on the middle of the page. 
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112939616/totem-cams-black-to-orange-preorder-kailas-nuco-totem-basic-and-kailas-emery-nut?page=4

Jason, I often carry one #7 Metolius Curve Hex.  I often use that but never feel the need for more hexes, and I've used them since the 70's.  
Buy another half-set of cams instead, and start adding the smaller sizes too.

Leroy Fielding wrote: You resurrected a 10 year old thread about hexes??? Really???

I did this because I didn't want to get shit for creating a new thread, so I searched for an existing one, but there's always someone with nothing to contribute. Go sit on a Tricam!

Leroy Fielding wrote: You resurrected a 10 year old thread about hexes??? Really???

Seems kind of appropriate, actually.

Ryan Swanson wrote:

You seem neat.  DMM Torque Nuts are the shit. I place those bastards all the time.  They are light, extendable, and everyone knows how badass you are for using cowbells.  

I'll second the DMM Torque Nut vote from Mr. Swansong. Got a set to do all passive pro ascents when I'm bored and have time to kill.

Another vote for DMM Torque Nuts. Although I find myself leaving them at home most of the time unless I will be top roping something.