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David K
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Aug 10, 2018
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The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 434
In the opposite spirit of the "what classic did you hate" thread, what are the underrated climbs that deserve to be classics?
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FrankPS
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Aug 10, 2018
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
Any climb with an offensive name.
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Joe Garibay
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Aug 10, 2018
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Ventura, Ca
· Joined Apr 2014
· Points: 86
FrankPS wrote: Any climb with an offensive name. Aka The Burnt Penis or any phallic spire
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Derek Doucet
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Aug 10, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 66
David Kerkeslager wrote: In the opposite spirit of the "what classic did you hate" thread, what are the underrated climbs that deserve to be classics? Community Pillar in Red Rocks. Folks seem to hate it. I thought it was a hoot.
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Alex McKenzie
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Aug 10, 2018
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Nevada city, CA
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 2,649
I think more boulder problems should be recognized. I know most people don't really appreciate bouldering, but think about it: You use no rope, no cams, no carabiners, only chalk. It's the purist form of climbing there is. (besides soloing)
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Nol H
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Aug 10, 2018
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Vermont
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 2,440
Alex McKenzie wrote: I think more boulder problems should be recognized. I know most people don't really appreciate bouldering, but think about it: You use no rope, no cams, no carabiners, only chalk. It's the purist form of climbing there is. (besides soloing) 6/10, almost got me with this one
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Alex McKenzie
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Aug 10, 2018
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Nevada city, CA
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 2,649
This one deserves more love:
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Howard Rice
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Aug 10, 2018
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WI
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 0
Alex McKenzie wrote: This one deserves more love: Solid route but I’m more into the middle variation.
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Chris Duca
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Aug 10, 2018
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Dixfield, ME
· Joined Dec 2006
· Points: 2,515
David Kerkeslager wrote: In the opposite spirit of the "what classic did you hate" thread, what are the underrated climbs that deserve to be classics? Youth Challenge at Cathedral Ledge...fantastic 5.10 climbing.
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Jeb McHardman
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Aug 10, 2018
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Taos
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 115
Uncle Fanny at Church Bowl. It'll put hair on your chest and take it off every other part of your body
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Sam Wilson
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Aug 10, 2018
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Asheville, NC
· Joined Apr 2018
· Points: 105
Little Sprout at HCR in Arkansas. It’s a 2-star, 5.6 sport route, but has lots of neat chicken heads on gorgeous rock with amazing views
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NateC
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Aug 10, 2018
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Utah
· Joined Feb 2013
· Points: 1
Black Widow Hollow in Red Rock
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Conor Mark
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Aug 10, 2018
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 720
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Aubrey Miller
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Aug 10, 2018
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Fort Smith, AR
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 463
Double trouble at Smith Rock, my favorite 5.10 ever
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Rob Dillon
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Aug 10, 2018
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Tamarisk Clearing
· Joined Mar 2002
· Points: 727
Chockstone Chimney, Peter Pan, and the Happy Gully.
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Lavran Johnson
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Aug 10, 2018
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 0
I'd 2nd Black Widow Hollow at RR. Also, Slab Alley at Squamish and GM Route (with HOC finish) at Index.
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Fail Falling
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Aug 10, 2018
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@failfalling - Oakland, Ca
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 1,043
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Creed Archibald
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Aug 10, 2018
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 1,026
Pretty much everything at Index. It's the greatest crag in America, but it doesn't get enough credit.
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Karl K
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Aug 11, 2018
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Phoenix, AZ
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 542
Most of the romps on First Creek Slabs in Red Rock. My favorite is probably Sunset Slab. Which, incongruously, has a long crack in the middle. A fun 5.7 - with only about 15 feet of 5.7. With less than an hour descent, even mere mortals can get two 7+ pitch climbs in a day and stay roped up.
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Derek Doucet
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Aug 11, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 66
Karl K wrote: Most of the romps on First Creek Slabs in Red Rock. My favorite is probably Sunset Slab. Which, incongruously, has a long crack in the middle. A fun 5.7 - with only about 15 feet of 5.7. With less than an hour descent, even mere mortals can get two 7+ pitch climbs in a day and stay roped up. There’s an amazing route called Celtic Cracks on the Labrinth Wall above the slabs, too. Not quite an uber-classic, but I absolutely loved it and as a bonus, the descent is super cool. I forget which slab route we used to approach it, but combined they made for a great day. Celtic Cracks has some awesome pitches. It’s got a bit of junk too, but the position is incredible. Highly recommended for an adventurous day in First Creek Canyon.
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David K
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Aug 11, 2018
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The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 434
The route that inspired me to create this thread was Moonlight (5.6) in the Gunks. It's better than most of the Gunks classics at the grade, IMO. Locals know about it but it doesn't get much publicity, perhaps because the crux is a hard-to-grade balance-y traverse about 12 feet from your last good piece.
Another really nice climb that even a lot of locals don't know around here is Short Job (5.5). The first pitch is basically a boulder problem with a loose block above it, so few people get up to the second pitch, which is a long, beautiful Gunks finger crack that winds up diagonally left through the trees on clean, solid rock to an interesting crux followed by a tree belay with a view. At the grade, I'd say it's not as good as Horseman or Ursula, but it's at least as good as Jackie, which a lot of people give 4 stars.
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