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What non-classic did you love?

Original Post
David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 434

In the opposite spirit of the "what classic did you hate" thread, what are the underrated climbs that deserve to be classics?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Any climb with an offensive name.

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86
FrankPS wrote: Any climb with an offensive name.

Aka The Burnt Penis or any phallic spire

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
David Kerkeslager wrote: In the opposite spirit of the "what classic did you hate" thread, what are the underrated climbs that deserve to be classics?

Community Pillar in Red Rocks. Folks seem to hate it. I thought it was a hoot. 

Alex McKenzie · · Nevada city, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 2,649

I think more boulder problems should be recognized. I know most people don't really appreciate bouldering, but think about it: You use no rope, no cams, no carabiners, only chalk. It's the purist form of climbing there is. (besides soloing)

Nol H · · Vermont · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 2,440
Alex McKenzie wrote: I think more boulder problems should be recognized. I know most people don't really appreciate bouldering, but think about it: You use no rope, no cams, no carabiners, only chalk. It's the purist form of climbing there is. (besides soloing)

6/10, almost got me with this one

Alex McKenzie · · Nevada city, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 2,649

This one deserves more love:

Howard Rice · · WI · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0
Alex McKenzie wrote: This one deserves more love:

Solid route but I’m more into the middle variation. 

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,515
David Kerkeslager wrote: In the opposite spirit of the "what classic did you hate" thread, what are the underrated climbs that deserve to be classics?

Youth Challenge at Cathedral Ledge...fantastic 5.10 climbing. 

Jeb McHardman · · Taos · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 115

Uncle Fanny at Church Bowl. It'll put hair on your chest and take it off every other part of your body 

Sam Wilson · · Asheville, NC · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 105

Little Sprout at HCR in Arkansas. It’s a 2-star, 5.6 sport route, but has lots of neat chicken heads on gorgeous rock with amazing views

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1

Black Widow Hollow in Red Rock

Conor Mark · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 720

Most slab climbs. 

Aubrey Miller · · Fort Smith, AR · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 463

 Double trouble at Smith Rock, my favorite 5.10 ever

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 727

Chockstone Chimney, Peter Pan, and the Happy Gully.

Lavran Johnson · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

I'd 2nd Black Widow Hollow at RR.
Also, Slab Alley at Squamish and GM Route (with HOC finish) at Index. 

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043

Ixtlan in Red Rocks.

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026

Pretty much everything at Index. It's the greatest crag in America, but it doesn't get enough credit. 

Karl K · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 542

Most of the romps on First Creek Slabs in Red Rock.
My favorite is probably Sunset Slab.  Which, incongruously, has a long crack in the middle.  A fun 5.7 - with only about 15 feet of 5.7.
With less than an hour descent, even mere mortals can get two  7+ pitch climbs in a day and stay roped up.

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
Karl K wrote: Most of the romps on First Creek Slabs in Red Rock.
My favorite is probably Sunset Slab.  Which, incongruously, has a long crack in the middle.  A fun 5.7 - with only about 15 feet of 5.7.
With less than an hour descent, even mere mortals can get two  7+ pitch climbs in a day and stay roped up.

There’s an amazing route called Celtic Cracks on the Labrinth Wall above the slabs, too. Not quite an uber-classic, but I absolutely loved it and as a bonus, the descent is super cool. I forget which slab route we used to approach it, but combined they made for a great day. Celtic Cracks has some awesome pitches. It’s got a bit of junk too, but the position is incredible. Highly recommended for an adventurous day in First Creek Canyon. 

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 434

The route that inspired me to create this thread was Moonlight (5.6) in the Gunks. It's better than most of the Gunks classics at the grade, IMO. Locals know about it but it doesn't get much publicity, perhaps because the crux is a hard-to-grade balance-y traverse about 12 feet from your last good piece.

Another really nice climb that even a lot of locals don't know around here is Short Job (5.5). The first pitch is basically a boulder problem with a loose block above it, so few people get up to the second pitch, which is a long, beautiful Gunks finger crack that winds up diagonally left through the trees on clean, solid rock to an interesting crux followed by a tree belay with a view. At the grade, I'd say it's not as good as Horseman or Ursula, but it's at least as good as Jackie, which a lot of people give 4 stars.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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