Rogue Bolting in the Gunks (PSA)

I think it might be time for a refresher.

Gunks Apps wrote: This post has gone in many different places. My original reason for this post was....

1. To let the rogue bolter know that the Preserve will not tolerate unapproved anchors
2. To let others/copy cats know it won’t be tolerated
3. To let those who take things into their own hands and smash hangers flush with a hammer that the anchors will indeed be removed swiftly, appropriately, and patched properly

The rest, to quote the bard, is vanity.

SDClimber wrote:

You guys realize that you're just feeding this Tradilad what he wants right?

Correct but the major disappointment was that no one got my Hunter S Thompson reference (sad face).

SD?! I'm in SD! Let's climb!

It is doubtful that anyone on this forum would want to climb with such  an obnoxious troll...

Nick Goldsmith wrote: It is doubtful that anyone on this forum would want to climb with such  an obnoxious troll...

So much hate and name calling over an anchor. At least tradiban avoids all that. I'm scratching my head wondering how he hurts so many butts?

Healyje wrote: Yeah, there was about 16 years between the time I lived in NH and climbed in the Gunks fairly regularly and my last visit. The wholesale change from leading to TR was striking almost beyond words.

Walk a little away from the beginner area next time. 

he is a useless troll that exists for the sole purpose of pushing peoples buttons.  argument simply for the sake of argument..

Nick Goldsmith wrote: It is doubtful that anyone on this forum would want to climb with such  an obnoxious troll...

You say my shenanigans are obnoxious, that's your opinion. I find these MP desk jockey lectures obnoxious, that's my opinion. It's two sides of the same coin.

But let's not get distracted here with me and how great I am, I know you people hate when a thread (God forbid) goes off topic. So let's get back to it.

The anchor matter has been settled. Now it's about how best to preserve the old style of climbing and there's two sides. Side A: Spray down anyone trapped at work on the PC or currently on belay with the virtues of old traditions and rely on self selected "boards" to enforce these old traditions or Side B: Devise a rational logic based argument regarding how to address the needs and wants of the ever increasing climbing community.

Gunks Apps wrote: Earlier this Summer someone, without prior approval, placed a bolted anchor above Westward Ha!/Cruise Control. This action was most likely taken because the standard rappel, from a large white pine, became dangerous after it died. Most people now build their own temporary gear anchor by using the multitude of cracks at the top of Cruise Control. The result of the anchor being placed without approval is that it has been removed by the Mohonk Preserve anchor volunteer group.

The accepted process for adding new anchors at the Mohonk Preserve:

The Mohonk Preserve has an Anchor Sub-committee composed of GCC members, Rangers, Local Climbers, Guides, and Preserve Staff. This group meets annually to discuss climbing related issues and potential new anchors. Committee members discuss the anchors that would remove pressure from a tree anchor and/or to mitigate erosion. The area is surveyed and the committee discusses and votes whether or not to add the anchor. Committee members who are part of the Preserve volunteer group and have attended a course on bolt installation from Petzl carry out the installation. Funding for this work comes from the GCC, ASCA, community fundraisers, Access Fund, and Petzl.

To become part of the process or have your input brought to the attention of the committee contact the GCC. If you see an anchor that is in need of attention or the anchor does not appear to be part of the preserve anchors (Approved anchors have 3/8" PEWAG chain) contact the GCC.

If you have specific questions you can email me directly at physicsfrac AT gmail

Thanks!
Christian Fracchia

Chris, does MP now own portions of Millbrook?  Most deeds along the southeastern flank of the ridge escarpment in Gardiner read something like "to the high point of the land". Did the Mohonk Preserve anchor volunteer group conduct due diligence to be sure the anchor they wanted to remove was on Mohonk Preserve property before removing it?

Part of the cliff, including the part with the recently-remove anchors, is on MP land.

Matt Davis wrote:

Chris, does MP now own portions of Millbrook?  Most deeds along the southeastern flank of the ridge escarpment in Gardiner read something like "to the high point of the land". Did the Mohonk Preserve anchor volunteer group conduct due diligence to be sure the anchor they wanted to remove was on Mohonk Preserve property before removing it?

Yes and yes. 

What was the due diligence?

And what is the parcel SBL for the lot the anchor was on?

Matt Davis wrote: What was the due diligence?

And what is the parcel SBL for the lot the anchor was on?

Are you planning on surveying the land just to make sure the bolts were on MP property?

baldclimber wrote:

That's an orc not a troll.

Ben Pellerin wrote:

That's an orc not a troll.

wrong

Ah...but could it be that "it" (whatever "it" is) put in the evil Millbrook bolts ? 

Matt Davis wrote: What was the due diligence?

And what is the parcel SBL for the lot the anchor was on?

What a strange line of questioning. If you really wanted to know, you could  look up the property in less time than it took to post.

Edit: I guess that assumes you know where Westward Ha is.

Thanks Mojo. I'm curious about what the abutting property owner deed descriptions say. If I find anything of interest I'll post up.

Thanks to Chris and rgold too.

Mobes Mobesely wrote:

Walk a little away from the beginner area next time.

I was at a place where all the previous times I'd been there I saw no one top roping...