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Descend Burgundy Col without an axe?

Original Post
Mark Hammond · · The edge of town · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 526

Washington Pass area. Looking to climb Clean Break on Juno Tower in about a week. Does anyone know if we can bypass the snow on the east side of Burgundy Col? And hence, not bring an ice axe?

Cat Cahoon · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,052

This photo is from Saturday July 28th. The col is the lowest point visible on the right, sorry the tree probably blocks a better view, but maybe this helps.

 I approached Clean Break by going up Silver Star Creek. My partner had an axe and I didn't. Going that way, there is no snow - except the steep/slick snowpatch below the route. She definitely used her axe there and I went behind her using a rock to chop steps. She let me use the axe to climb down into the moat. So we only used it for a few minutes, but it was nice to have. 

Mark Hammond · · The edge of town · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 526

Thanks Cat!

Matthew Tangeman · · SW Colorado · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,128

Maybe have a back up plan if you weren't already aware - whole Washington Pass area is closed at the moment due to a wildfire.

Michael T · · WA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 757

You can scramble up the gulley to the left of the base instead of going up the snow.

Mark Hammond · · The edge of town · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 526

Thanks for the further beta. Watching the fires.

Gabe O'Leary · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 828

The Cutthroat fire is contained and the pass back open.  That said there is another fire nearby to keep an eye on (gilbert fire).

https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/6069/

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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