Moby Grape - Kurt's Korner w/ 70M Rope?
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This is second hand, so there may have possibly been something lost in translation... |
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70m rope is completely silly on canon. the extra length of a single 70 does jack shit for getting down in an emergency and running 70m pitches on canon the leader may as well be soloing the last 20 to 30m of the pitch and the 2nd is almost soloing the 1st 30m of their pitch.... 50m doubles link any pitches you need to do on moby includeing reaching the bolts @ top of reppys. 60m more than enough rope for any reasonable pitch up there. |
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I had twin 70s on Kurt’s corner (just because they are the only twins I have). We belayed from the bottom of the corner and I ran out of rope about 20 feet from the eye bolt above the runout slab. I think if I did it again I’d do a short pitch on Kurt’s corner then belay at the top and then do the runout pitch. |
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We did it in the rain. Never noticed a bolt, certainly did not have 70m ropes..m |
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Nick Goldsmith wrote: We did it in the rain. Never noticed a bolt, certainly did not have 70m ropes..m It's just up and right of the runout easy 5th slab on a flat platform. Unless you were desperately searching for an anchor you'd probably miss it. |
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There’s a great gear belay at the top of the corner on the right. Belay there, then climb the slab to the eyebolt. There’s nothing gained by trying to run those pitches together. |
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Derek Doucet wrote: There’s a great gear belay at the top of the corner on the right. Belay there, then climb the slab to the eyebolt. There’s nothing gained by trying to run those pitches together. Derek, can you tell me where you are referring to on the pic below when you refer to the "top of the corner" and the "eyebolt" https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/108332137_medium_1494276640.jpg |
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Ken Graf wrote: I'll take a stab at this, see attached pic. In relation to my comment, we tried running the yellow and blue pitches together and ran out of rope before getting to the eyebolt. I've included a photo of the eyebolt from a video screengrab. |
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Thanks Brent, very helpful! |
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Ken Graf wrote: The belay is roughly where the yellow line in the image below bends 90 degrees left in the red circle. It’s very obvious. The eyebolt is indeed where indicated in the image. |
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Wow that dike is an impressive vertical feature. Never realized that before now. |
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In the pic, I believe my partners and I have usually extended the cave pitch to the base of the corner with double 60s, long slings and a bit of drag. Then at the top of the corner, continued straight up instead of jogging left as indicated, until you can find a decent belay. Then we did a little simulclimbing on wicked easy terrain for a minute . Done that a few times ... works for me. I never knew where the real route went until looking at that photo. Certainly never saw the eye bolt! ... anyway, you don't need a 70. |
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I would just go with whatever Derek says, but regardless, my experience on Kurts Corner mirrors his. Certainly Kurts is a better finish than the standard finish to Moby Grape. Even if its a little wet it was still very manageable and worth doing IMO. |
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Thanks all....well, long story short, we were running low on daylight by the time we got to the cave and decided it was time to GTFOTM (Get the F off the mountain), so we ended up doing the OG (Original Grape) finish as quick as we could. What a great route, WAY more of a commitment than I was anticipating, especially after the very hospitable WG Ridge. |






