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First 12a - what was it?

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Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 11

Just wondering what some of yall's first 12a's were. Was it cool or did it kind of suck but still a 12a nonetheless? Have you repeated it or was it a one and done? if you repeated it does it still challenge you or do you blast it like a 5.8?

Mine was Eternal Sunshine in LCC. I like it and have repeated it numerous times but its not my favorite climb. It still challenges me and a hold broke so its still hard to me especially if my fitness is low.

F Loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 808

I will let you know when I lead one clean... *Cries in old fat guy/noodle fingers*

Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 11
Floyd Eggers wrote: I will let you know when I lead one clean... *Cries in old fat guy/noodle fingers*

future targets are always welcomed. there are dozens more I want to send but my noodle fingers have a hard time too

Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 11
Ryan Swanson wrote: Gym. Pink TR in the corner.

I would have repeated it but they reset it for a competition.

Cool man.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Great thread.

Definitely not an obvious platform to spray you climbed a 12a.

My first one was Cat Crack at mound woodsen

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Stickman... does it count if it is a boulder problem that equals a 5.12a route?

Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 11
Only, Locals wrote: Great thread.

Definitely not an obvious platform to spray you climbed a 12a.

My first one was Cat Crack at mound woodsen

nah that is what the "I climb, boulder and follow" section is for. I truly just want to know from fellow climbers what their accomplishment was but trolls are always welcomed. if we wanted an obvious platform id start at the 15a range

MisterE Wolfe · · Nevada City, CA · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 8,037
Only, Locals wrote: Great thread.

Definitely not an obvious platform to spray you climbed a 12a.

My first one was Cat Crack at mound woodsen

Paradise Forks .10c

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Jerry432 wrote: Just wondering what some of yall's first 12a's were. Was it cool or did it kind of suck but still a 12a nonetheless? Have you repeated it or was it a one and done? if you repeated it does it still challenge you or do you blast it like a 5.8?

Tricky question.

Formally my the first 5.12 lead was Presidents Day, CA, Table Mountain, Gold Wall 5.12b. Have not repeated it and do not want climb that boring line again.

My first Crimean 5.12 lead was Triton, Crimea, Bahchisaraj, Stadion 7a+ (formally YDS 5.12a). Have repeated it several times. And going to repeat it again and again. It is so fun to find a different beta using smaller and smaller features on every run making it more techy and less strenuous. Limestone is mega fun in terms of exchanging strength for confidence and technique.

I would say by Crimean ratings Presidents Day is a solid 6b (formally YDS 5.10c). On the other hand there is a mega classic Yubilejnyj, Crimea, Nikita 7a (formally YDS 5.11d) climb nearby. I would rate it a "one move 5.10c wonder" (yep, this is a slightly overhanging perfect hands crack, jamming it all the way up is a solid 5.10, laybacking it... hmm... I'm not that strong, although they say it is a 7a = 5.11d).

It is not about ratings, it is everything about climb.

Danny Poceta · · Canmore · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 98
Only, Locals wrote

My first one was Cat Crack at mound woodsen

Best 5.8 on the hill!!!

Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 11
reboot wrote: Some soft 12a until I sent a real 12a.

That’s what she said. Oh wait she said a hard 12a

pkeds · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

hidden treasure, jackson falls SOILL

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Only, Locals wrote: Great thread.

Definitely not an obvious platform to spray you climbed a 12a.

My first one was Cat Crack at mound woodsen

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/109868075/cat-crack

MP gives it a 5.11a.  Are you following Rule 27 and doing the opposite of Rule 36?

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
jg fox wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/109868075/cat-crack

MP gives it a 5.11a.  Are you following Rule 27 and doing the opposite of Rule 36?

I don't even know what I'm doing, but fantastic reference to a fantastic thread

Brandon Ribblett · · The road · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 80

everyone's 1st 12 at the red, Ro Sham Po.

Dunder Thunder · · Ventura ca · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 53

White trash in Alabama hills.

Peter J · · Bishop · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 687

Tongue-in-groove, New River Gorge. I'd do it again for sure, but I moved out west after and haven't been climbing out east since.

Peter J · · Bishop · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 687
Pavel Burov wrote: Formally my the first 5.12 lead was Presidents Day, CA, Table Mountain, Gold Wall 5.12b. Have not repeated it and do not want climb that boring line again.

IMO everything at Goldwall looks the same and absolutely NOTHING there could be called an aesthetic line... But I think the movement can be really really fun!

Jerry432 · · odessa texas · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 11
Only, Locals wrote:

I don't even know what I'm doing, but fantastic reference to a fantastic thread

Cute, I remember when I had my first beer.  

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Peter J wrote:

IMO everything at Goldwall looks the same and absolutely NOTHING there could be called an aesthetic line... But I think the movement can be really really fun!

That 5.11 to the right to Presidents Day is fun. BTW, Presidents Day is not that boring, to reach the first fixed draw is fun. That's a real climbing — everything about standing on your toes.


BTW just realized that Men's Crisis at The Grotto is rated 5.11d/5.12a, so I technically can claim it as my first 5.12. This is a fun one move wonder climb and it doesn't really matter whether it a solid 5.11 or soft 5.12. Have repeated it several times and would like to repeat it yet again one day.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
ViperScale . wrote: Stickman... does it count if it is a boulder problem that equals a 5.12a route?

No, this thread is not "what was your first v4?"

My first was Coyne Crack.  It got 12a more often back in 2000 than it does now.  I've done it several times since.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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