2019 gear
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http://blog.weighmyrack.com/over-100-new-pieces-of-climbing-gear-coming-in-2019-us-europe-edition/
Some things I haven't noticed pop up in the forum yet:
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Hobo Greg wrote: The Grandstone is coming back?!?! Who knows, isn't this like the hundredth time 5.10 has shown some mid top at a trade show in the last 6 years with none of the rest coming to market? At least in this photo the toe looks even blunter/bulkier than the originals. |
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Whoever is designing the new Five Ten shoes needs to be fired...or maybe something more drastic. Seem promising, but dear lord they’re an eyesore. |
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BD Solution 'Guide' harness with more durable outer fabric. I like the solution but the durability wasn't quite there for me, interested in that one. |
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Not on the retail / affiliate circuit but the HandBuilt Alliance / D4 Big Wall Gear is making some major innovations in portaledge design. |
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wallrider w/ mips is interesting.....one helmet for climbing, ski mtnring, bikes, etc? |
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I really wanted to believe that the Edelrid Gigajul would be cool, but after watching a couple videos, it seems like a heavier megajul with more ways to mess up the various belay setups. Maybe I don't understand what's new and great about it, but it seems gimmicky to me. I'll stick with my megajul. |
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Matt B wrote: I really wanted to believe that the Edelrid Gigajul would be cool, but after watching a couple videos, it seems like a heavier megajul with more ways to mess up the various belay setups. Maybe I don't understand what's new and great about it, but it seems gimmicky to me. I'll stick with my megajul. If it fixes the apparently aweful friction in guide mode I would personally be interested. |
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Ted Pinson wrote: Whoever is designing the new Five Ten shoes needs to be fired...or maybe something more drastic. Seem promising, but dear lord they’re an eyesore. Aleon and Dragons don't look too bad... |
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Lena chita wrote: The only other change to the testarossa is that the heel is now full covered in rubber, kind of like the solution but thinner rubber |
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Us poor FiveTen feet people, waited at least six years for a high top and the Grandstone is clunkmaster we get? Couldn't even think up a new name for a whole new shoe? Sportiva got it right (if TCs fit) years ago and Scarpa and FiveTen miss in 2018 and 2019 respectively (somewhat ridiculous to bury a shoe six months before anyone gets to wear it, I realize, at least I did try, and try to like, the Maestro) |
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Nick Drake wrote: Finally! Been waiting for someone to make a double-rope-specific ATC for years! |
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Kevin Mcbride wrote: Darn! Hopefully it is thin enough, but I better stock up on old Testarossas. That is one reason why I preferred Testarossa's over Solution... the soft heel. Shit! :( |
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Looks like edelrid has their own version of a microtrax now, wonder what the price point will be because that's awesome. |
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Nick B wrote: That's a good point. It looks like it might belay more similarly to other devices in guide mode compared to the megajul's backwards rope feed into the device. Feeding slack / lowering in guide mode is my only gripe with the megajul, so hopefully this one fixes that. A better auto blocking rap mode would be appreciated as well. Currently I use it in ATC mode with a prusik. It was hard to tell from the limited videos I could find if these improvements were incorporated in the Gigajul. |
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Lena chita wrote: Don't worry, the heel is still soft, they just added some rubber on the sides. No reason to panic |
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Lena chita wrote: Aleon looks cool. New Dragons visually look terrible compared to the original, even if they look vastly improved from a performance standpoint (yay toe rubber!) |
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Eric and Lucie wrote: There has been one that is excellent on doubles/twins: Petzl Reverso 4 :) truly much better than the ATC on thin ropes. But wears out quicker than an ATC and not great with fat ropes, so I still use an ATC for sport, cragging, fat single ropes, etc. (Petzl also previously made the original Reverso in a smaller version for thin twins, the Reversino, but for a number of reasons those original versions were not great devices). |
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Matt B wrote: where'd you find the videos at? I did a quick search for it on utube and nothin came up |
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Linnaeus wrote:(Petzl also previously made the original Reverso in a smaller version for thin twins, the Reversino, but for a number of reasons those original versions were not great devices). I still use my Reversino for twins but it is due for replacement so I am very happy to hear about the future BD offering. Reversino is so light and compact. |
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Linnaeus wrote: Yes, I have used the Verso (the non-guide-mode version of the Reverso; never been a fan of guide-mode belaying) for a few years now, and it is indeed one of the best devices out there with thin ropes. BUT, it is still not designed (or, sized) specifically for thin ropes, and when rappelling on 7.5mm ice ropes, it simply does not provide enough friction. I keep being amazed that no manufacturer (that I knew of, as I'd never seen the Reversino) would not simply make a scaled down version of their standard ATC-style device. Anyway, looking forward to this BD device, even though I'd rather see something from Petzl or Wild Country... but maybe BD will start a trend and the others will follow. Correction: just looked up the Reversino... yes, I did see this some time ago, but it is not at all the same design as the (Re)Verso... sharp edges all over and rigid keeper loop... ugh. |