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2019 gear


Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140
Linnaeus wrote:

There has been one that is excellent on doubles/twins: Petzl Reverso 4 :) truly much better than the ATC on thin  ropes. But wears out quicker than an ATC and not great with fat ropes, so I still use an ATC for sport, cragging, fat single ropes, etc. 

(Petzl also previously made the original Reverso in a smaller version for thin twins, the Reversino, but for a number of reasons those original versions were not great devices). 

Yes, I have used the Verso (the non-guide-mode version of the Reverso; never been a fan of guide-mode belaying) for a few years now, and it is indeed one of the best devices out there with thin ropes.  BUT, it is still not designed (or, sized) specifically for thin ropes, and when rappelling on 7.5mm ice ropes, it simply does not provide enough friction.  I keep being amazed that no manufacturer (that I knew of, as I'd never seen the Reversino) would not simply make a scaled down version of their standard ATC-style device.  Anyway, looking forward to this BD device, even though I'd rather see something from Petzl or Wild Country... but maybe BD will start a trend and the others will follow. 

Correction: just looked up the Reversino... yes, I did see this some time ago, but it is not at all the same design as the (Re)Verso... sharp edges all over and rigid keeper loop... ugh.
Matt B · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 281
Big B wrote:

where'd you find the videos at? I did a quick search for it on utube and nothin came up


Here and here or, google "Edelrid gigajul" and a couple videos come up.

John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 372

Anyone know where to get a Beal Birdie?

Linnaeus · · NZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0
Eric and Lucie wrote:

Yes, I have used the Verso (the non-guide-mode version of the Reverso; never been a fan of guide-mode belaying) for a few years now, and it is indeed one of the best devices out there with thin ropes.  BUT, it is still not designed (or, sized) specifically for thin ropes, and when rappelling on 7.5mm ice ropes, it simply does not provide enough friction.  I keep being amazed that no manufacturer (that I knew of, as I'd never seen the Reversino) would not simply make a scaled down version of their standard ATC-style device.  Anyway, looking forward to this BD device, even though I'd rather see something from Petzl or Wild Country... but maybe BD will start a trend and the others will follow. 

Correction: just looked up the Reversino... yes, I did see this some time ago, but it is not at all the same design as the (Re)Verso... sharp edges all over and rigid keeper loop... ugh.

The original Reverso was constructed identically to the reversino, size was the only difference. That version had some of the worst holding power and rapidly produced a very sharp edge from wear. I agree 7.x ice lines are very slick! That was made me switch from a ATC guide to the Reverso, and I will add an extra carabiner or use a Vaporlock biner for more friction. So agreed yes better but.m


 The DMM Buggette is a scaled down version of the Bug; although I believe no longer in production, it provided some of the best friction/resistance of any device, and is super light. weighmyrack.com/Belay/DMM-B…


AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

I wonder if Outdoor Research's use of PrimaLoft's "AeroGel" in their new Bitterblaze Gloves will be a game changer for cold hands during winter climbing?

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 745
Kevin Mcbride wrote:

Don't worry, the heel is still soft, they just added some rubber on the sides. No reason to panic

Heh. I’ve gone through at least a couple of “it’s only a minor redesign”changes that turned my favorite shoes into shoes I never wear anymore, so panic option is definitely on the table. 

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 486
Linnaeus wrote:

The original Reverso was constructed identically to the reversino, size was the only difference. That version had some of the worst holding power and rapidly produced a very sharp edge from wear. I agree 7.x ice lines are very slick! That was made me switch from a ATC guide to the Reverso, and I will add an extra carabiner or use a Vaporlock biner for more friction. So agreed yes better but.m


 The DMM Buggette is a scaled down version of the Bug; although I believe no longer in production, it provided some of the best friction/resistance of any device, and is super light. weighmyrack.com/Belay/DMM-B…


Buggette is gone, I tried to track one down a little while ago and came up dry. I’ve done the vaporlock with an atc for 7.5s, but I actually prefer doubled up attaches (the round stock). It still pays out smooth and has more brake assistance. 

I’m also a tad worried about the testarossa being screwed up, the shoe just works. Could maybe do 3.5mm instead of 4mm for more sensitivity, but most of my time in them is spent on Vaseline covered glass so wear isn’t an issue.
Scott Kilts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 5

Edelrid Spock is interesting, would be cool to have a trax competitor.

The ice rock cougar titanium/composite crampons look very cool. Very light. Tried to research the company, only found a Facebook page in a language I don't read but the photos! And not a single image of the crampons.

Also, the dyneema and carbon portaledge! Sexy. Wonder if that will be an option for the trapezium? Seems so ideal.

Blue ice hummingbird! Wonder how a titanium pick fares?

New Grigri weighs 5g more, new Reverso weighs 2g less.

Edit: brand name

Alan Coon · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

Don’t forget about dmm’s new cams 

Dana Walters 1 · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 120
Scott Kilts wrote: Edelrid Spock is interesting, would be cool to have a trax competitor.

The ice rock cougar titanium/composite crampons look very cool. Very light. Tried to research the company, only found a Facebook page in a language I don't read but the photos! And not a single image of the crampons.

Also, the dyneema and carbon portaledge! Sexy. Wonder if that will be an option for the trapezium? Seems so ideal.

Blue ice hummingbird! Wonder how a titanium pick fares?

New Grigri weighs 5g more, new Reverso weighs 2g less.

Edit: brand name

Ice Rock is Russian


http://icerockequipment.com/en/main
Scott Kilts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 5
Dana Walters 1 wrote:

Ice Rock is Russian


http://icerockequipment.com/en/main

Thanks!

pjc30943 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Anyone know what the new BD tents are? There is a video for the UL tent, but there also looked to be a single wall Firstlight-like tent in the background -- but with vents on top and different features.


Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Kyle Tarry wrote:

DMM Pivot is rated down to 7.3 mm.  Reverso 4 is rated to 7.5 mm, and the new version supposedly will go down to 6.9 mm.  Why own two different ATCs when one device can do it all?

If you believe any of the current devices used with ropes at the bottom of the size range actually give acceptable (not good, just acceptable) braking force then you are in for a big dissapointment one day.

Tom Sherman · · Bristol, RI · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 412

Whole lot of garbage here in search of a use? I'm also curious about the Edelrid Spoc.... other than that, holy balls is there so much junk here.

Not stoked about C4 changes. I guess the Camp Dyon has a purpose if you're real nit-picky? Climb Tech Tricky, what a piece of garbage, are you supposed to rack those gate open, or are you supposed to get to a stance - prop the gate- and then stretch clip a badly placed bolt/bolt below the proper stance, WTF?? Dragonfly, useless with other competitors, but will satisfy those who blow their load over DMM marketing and gets DMM a competitive small cam. Would be psyched about the 5.10 mid top, but $180 tag matches TC's so its a no-brainer. Mammut re-releases their awesome helmet, except with big f@#$% holes in it to match every other garbage helmet in the industry, and oh, added $100 to the tag, great! Petzl's Meteor.... LOLOLOL, why don't you just glue cardboard to your head each day.

I didn't stare at every harness out, but has someone stepped up to fill the whole left by Petzl when they removed their ice clipper slots from the Corax??? Please let me know....

Damn, when did I become so cynical....

Justin Fisher · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2013 · Points: 25
John Clark wrote: Anyone know where to get a Beal Birdie?

They haven't landed in the US yet, but will probably be in Backcountry, Gear Express, and other retailers as soon as they get here.  Maybe by the end of the year?  

Mike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 10

The weighmyrack write up mentions that the cam in the Grigri was redesigned. Has anyone been able to find out what it was redesigned to improve/change? (smoothness, rope diameters, something else?)

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195
https://youtu.be/zwzM_yJGrK8

Looks like rope diameter is the biggest one.  It’s basically a GriGri+ without the gimmicky TR mode or anti-panic break (or maybe that one’s still there?).
Brendan Koch · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote: Whoever is designing the new Five Ten shoes needs to be fired...or maybe something more drastic.  Seem promising, but dear lord they’re an eyesore.

Not nearly as bad as that Daniel Woods/Paul Robinson collaboration shoe.  Doesn't get much uglier than that.  And DAMN Sportiva for changing the Testarossa at all. 

pjc30943 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

To answer my own question from above:
Looks like BD is releasing a 3 person model of the FirstLight (!) and redesigning the old 2 person one as well:

https://gearjunkie.com/black-diamond-distance-tent-2019

DRusso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 740
Tom Sherman wrote: Whole lot of garbage here in search of a use? I'm also curious about the Edelrid Spoc.... other than that, holy balls is there so much junk here.

Not stoked about C4 changes. I guess the Camp Dyon has a purpose if you're real nit-picky? Climb Tech Tricky, what a piece of garbage, are you supposed to rack those gate open, or are you supposed to get to a stance - prop the gate- and then stretch clip a badly placed bolt/bolt below the proper stance, WTF?? Dragonfly, useless with other competitors, but will satisfy those who blow their load over DMM marketing and gets DMM a competitive small cam. Would be psyched about the 5.10 mid top, but $180 tag matches TC's so its a no-brainer. Mammut re-releases their awesome helmet, except with big f@#$% holes in it to match every other garbage helmet in the industry, and oh, added $100 to the tag, great! Petzl's Meteor.... LOLOLOL, why don't you just glue cardboard to your head each day.

I didn't stare at every harness out, but has someone stepped up to fill the whole left by Petzl when they removed their ice clipper slots from the Corax??? Please let me know....

Damn, when did I become so cynical....

The Wall Rider MIPS is the same helmet as the Wall Rider but with the MIPS technology in it which noticeably reduces brain injuries from angled impacts. The technology is expensive but brain injuries are a lot more expensive. There are not extra holes cut in it. If you want to see if for yourself it will be at the Outdoor Retailer Tradeshow in Denver in two weeks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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