Starting Prusiking with a single Prusik

Not a solution to the problem as stated, but if you are climbing with half ropes, the belayer can let down one strand which can be used as a foot loop.  (In fact, the entire ascent can be managed with a foot loop in each stand that the belayer takes up alternately---no prussiking involved.  The one requirement is decent communication between the ascender and the belayer, and in this case it is easier to manage if the belayer is using a guide-mode plate belay.)

I've argued at various points that a second absolutely ought to be able to cope with the hanging situation on their own, which means having something with them that is long enough to serve as a foot loop for free-hanging recovery.  A very simple solution is for the second to use a double-length runner as their dedicated cleaning sling.  Even if you are using a fastex-buckled chalk bag belt, you can still tie it with a square knot and use it in a pinch, but having a double-length chalkbag cord as David mentions is better.

On longer and/or more remote routes, I like to have a super-thin quadruple-length runner (i.e. a light cordelette, which however I rarely use as a cordelette).   I quadruple it, wear it over the shoulder, and use it as my cleaning sling when seconding.  It's good for a host of self-rescue tricks and is even pressed into service as a cordelette on occasion.  As for prusiks, I've always used chalk bags with zipper pockets and  always have two 6mm prusiks loops (short) and a super light knife in permanent residence.

Warrior wrote:

At 190++++ its danged hard to bump up the rope, especially with a flyweight belayer and weak hands/thin cords, so I've taken to a system to use the grigri similar to Daniel Dulac Petzl video in China doing FAs. 

The video https://youtu.be/SGz5_EnAPG4?t=3m7s

Slow it down to 0.25 speed to see what's going on.

Maybe David Coley's solution could work with a typical (short) 3rd-hand prusik if one used shoelaces to extend it.

David Kerkeslager wrote:

This is the same idea as what I do, but he's stepping on the rope, which takes a ton of strength. It might be less painful than wrapping around my thigh but the thigh is much less difficult.

i'm definitely not that strong, but i can do this move quite easily. the trick is to rock over onto a squat, and then slide the rope under your foot as your pull up, standing straight up from a squat.

also you should carry your chalk bag with accessory cord. if you pull apart the double fishermans it even cinches nicely for a tight fit around your waist. that way i'm NEVER without two prusik loops. one as my always-carry, and the chalkbag loop in case i've ran out of slings or other gear.

edit: ah, looks like david c. already mentioned this. i probably learned it from reading his website anyway. :)

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: 2. BUT, a Gri-Gri is one of the best pieces and most versatile of all the gear I own ie when leading an unknown rappel it is very comforting to know I have something that can easily function as an ascender or self belay up to a ledge etc going down first on a single rope.

I like my Gri-Gri as much as the next guy, but you can do the exact same thing with an ATC-G if you have your rappel extended...this definitely isn't an argument for bringing a Gri up a multi-pitch (and I do quite often). Just toss a locker in the hanging hole and clip it back to your belay loop for upside-down guide mode. It's no more difficult to self belay or ascend than with a Gri.

Jack Servedio wrote:

I like my Gri-Gri as much as the next guy, but you can do the exact same thing with an ATC-G if you have your rappel extended...this definitely isn't an argument for bringing a Gri up a multi-pitch (and I do quite often). Just toss a locker in the hanging hole and clip it back to your belay loop for upside-down guide mode. It's no more difficult to self belay or ascend than with a Gri.

That's a sweet thing to know.  (But weren't we talking about what to do if the second has fallen off a 'hang, not rappelling?)

Gunkiemike wrote:

That's a sweet thing to know.  (But weren't we talking about what to do if the second has fallen off a 'hang, not rappelling?)

It's the same process to turn your ATC-G into an ascender if you only have a single prussik. But, even if it weren't, this is MP - aren't there only supposed to be like 1-2 actual responses and 20+ pages of OT eventually devolving into whether you should bolt Devil's Lake, whether the ATC is going to kill you, or the definition of trad climbing?

I've been in the described situation 2 times at the gunks; fallen at a roof, dangling in air too high to lower off.

First time it happened I had a Ropeman + a foot loop with me.
Second time it happened I only had a prussick (autoblock).
Both times I had a grigri and both times I had been climbing far enough to collect a few slings which helped lengthen whatever i needed to get my foot in place.

Both times I set up the ascender/prussick, clipped slings long enough to get my foot in, stood up and attached my belay loop to the top prussick/ascender's crab to give enough slack to set up my grigri once I sat (essentially Coley's method but with slings and biners added to the mix). With the ropeman, this was a piece of cake. With the prussick, also a piece of cake though a bit more stale.

Finagling a prussick after having glided up the rope with a ropeman showed how much difference the mechanical ascender made so I now never leave the ground on a multi without an oh-shit kit consisting of a ropeman w/ a small biner and foot loop and my grigri. The versatility and reassurance of an easy fix to a mini-epic justifies the weight in my mind.
Also I tie my chalk bag with a prussick just in case.

John Wilder wrote:

Having jugged exactly one time with an atc in guide mode, I'd beg to differ. I spend alot of time hanging on a rope for work and the gri is pretty damn smooth and my memory of the guide was "yeah, this will work if it's all I got, but damn I hope I don't have to jug more than about 10' on it."

I should have qualified that with an "in an emergency situation." I've jugged back up a rope with the ATC-G only a handful of times (and twice were just practice), and at least for me, when jugging with a device + prussik, the prussik part was the limiting factor and both were a royal pain in the ass - especially once you get toward the top.

Though, if you are jugging with a real ascender plus another device, you are absolutely right - the Gri is smoother. Either way, we are talking about getting back on a route while hanging when you only have a single prussik, and either device in addition to that prussik is going to be the same amount of work, and a very short distance.

Back to this topics specifics. A few(many) climbs come to mind, High-E, Modern Times,  Alphonse.

 Using Alphonse as an example( it has a stout tree&good gear to help set up a haul system) a 5.8 that is a perfect example.
 Blow the move into the crux or pop off while/after stepping up. . .

So there the 2nd climber is 10  feet down &  hanging away from the wall, free hanging. What are the choices?
(There were contrivances, not having a standard Gunks kit, no ascending device, or cord.) 
This leaves the 2nd swinging, if the lead cord is a modern piece of string, streached over a blunt but rough,abrading edge. . .
Lower 65 feet to the belay ledge, or have the lead climber throw in a 3:1, as quick as can be and haul up 5-10 feet to help the 2nd re-gain the wall?

Michael Schneider wrote:Lower 65 feet to the belay ledge, or have the lead climber throw in a 3:1, as quick as can be and haul up 5-10 feet to help the 2nd re-gain the wall?

While this is an option, I don't think it's a good one. I've practiced this and even with a light climber it's quite difficult. It's much easier for the follower to Prusik up than for the leader to haul them up.

Hi there, finally took a few seconds to join so I could post a few silly replies...some great replies, but assuming you have one prussik and little else, what about locking that prussik to your tie in, making a foot loop below the prussik, grunting and eventually standing in foot loop while groaning and sliding prussik higher. Sure to be slow progress...but seems possible in an emergency. In an alpine environment, I use a chest harness and sit harness, so hanging from 1 prussik is no big deal at all (thanks to Arnor Larson for the prussik schooling years ago, prussiks are more valuable than a pink tri-cam)