Stiff new rope....!!!

sorry man, your rope sucks. don’t climb on that thing. 

well you won't have to worry about rapping off the ends of your rope now

the schmuck wrote:

Not quite accurate. I don't know about the Russians, but Czechs climbed for a long time on Bolex ropes, which although terrible, met minimum EC & UIAA standards. My first rope was a 11.5mm Bolex rope that I bought in Czechoslovakia. The handling and durability sucked, but falls were taken on it.  !

Bolex rope - THAT WAS IT ! from  back in the 80s  Jon Burr! that was his name, he lived in a small house at the base of the trapps in the Gunks & was always hosting Czech climbers, they were the most fun of any of the world travelers. Eventually some of those "Wild & Crazy guys settled in NY. Any one know Jethro? 

I don't think he has the option of convient shipping like most of us do so ordering from online or another mp member might be hard for him. That being said there has to be some way we can get this guy a rope that's safe to lead climb on. If you take a lead fall on that rope it will snape you in half.

FrankPS wrote:

You can't order a rope online from a legitimate climbing website? Is there UPS or Fed Ex delivery in Pakistan?

it gets extremely expensive, firstly the price of the rope, then add international delivery charges, custom duty and taxes.....  

previously a friend of mine bought a local rope, it snapped, he fell about 25 feet and fractured 3 bones... so now the only option we had was Chinese. Apparently it's not an option either :( 

Michael Schneider wrote:

I'm not sure, looks the same though.....

Mark Berenblum wrote: Aanif, like others said, I wouldn't climb on that rope. The stated KN breaking strength is essentially irrelevant... that's probably the least-important specification for a dynamic climbing rope. At minimum, I would try to figure out what the elongation is, and absolutely would not climb on that until I find that out (really, I wouldn't climb on that at all). If you insist on climbing on it, at least cut off the sewn ends and tie in with any of the normal knots. I would not trust an untested sewn connection for something so critical.

If you're able to pay American prices for a rope from a reputable brand + the shipping to you, I'd be happy to put it in the mail for you to Pakistan, but I'm not sure what the customs situation would be like on your end once it arrives in Pakistan.

BTW, fabric softener is a relatively-accepted rope treatment. Here's something official from PMI:

"Ropes may dry out and lose some flexibility as a result of washing. You can prevent this by adding a little fabric softener to the rinse cycle during rope washing. Use manufacturer’s recommendations for one load of laundry, which is usually about a cap full of fabric softener. Don’t use any more than this or it might damage the rope. Lubricating ropes using fabric softener should be used sparingly and only when needed."

It will be extremely expensive for me... price+shipping+custom duty+tax 

btw there are some used ropes available here, previously used by foreigners on K-2, nanga parbat etc.... do you think this might be a good option? 

What are you planning on using these ropes for?

mat wrote: What are you planning on using these ropes for?

Alpine Climbing.....!!!!

http://www.ascender.pk/

They have “real” climbing ropes athough only one showing online. 

Aanif - I figured the shipping would be prohibitively expensive, but there has to be another solution beyond using that rope for leading. If you aren't already familiar with the static vs. dynamic distinction, I'd recommend doing some reading and, ideally, finding a mentor or a guide to teach you alpine climbing. The two have very different uses. The best static rope will break your body in half if used for lead climbing, so it's not just a matter of getting quality equipment. It's a matter of getting the right quality equipment. It could very well be that your friend was injured because he was using the wrong tool for the job (leading on a static rope) and not because the rope was insufficiently strong.

Alpine climbing is unique in that it essentially can cover all the other climbing disciplines... ice, snow, rock. If the climbing you're doing involves the risk of a free-fall, then you really cannot climb without a proper rope or you will seriously hurt yourself when you fall. A sliding fall on snow is a different matter with a bit more leeway, but I'm guessing that's not what you're looking to do. In many cases, you'd be safer just self-belaying with an ice ax for that kind of climbing anyway.

If this were up to me, and I was dead-set on vertical roped climbing, I would say my order of preference would be:
1. Getting a new dynamic rope from a real climbing manufacturer that's UIAA certified. The DMM one sold by Ascender.pk that Mark NH linked to is a real climbing rope, but I understand it's expensive (~$180 USD).
2. A used dynamic rope in good condition, manufactured by a real climbing company and with UIAA certification
3. Giving up roped leading until I can get one of the above!! There are plenty of other climbing disciplines where having the right rope is a little less important (but still important!). You could toprope, or climb snow, or better yet boulder!
4.  Using an off-brand DYNAMIC rope that's not UIAA certified, but this would be a very risky option

Under no circumstances would I use an off-brand static rope for leading (which is, I think, what your black rope is). Good luck and stay safe! Climbing is fun, but so is living!

While safe and cautious advice is warranted, I do find it interesting the lack of understanding their own affluence people have in this thread.  The US is certainly the wrong place to be buying a rope, international shipping prices out of the US are generally insane.

WIKI
Pakistanis earn $1513 a year on average Per capita income 

The fact is that not everybody has the same income, access or affluence.  Responses should be adjusted accordingly.  Aanif might not have the same income as many of us.  Or maybe he has much more.  I don't know.  The point is perspective.

The rope Aanif has is probably better than what many great routes were climbed with 50-60 years ago.

Aanif Zia Taimuri wrote:

It will be extremely expensive for me... price+shipping+custom duty+tax 

btw there are some used ropes available here, previously used by foreigners on K-2, nanga parbat etc.... do you think this might be a good option? 

Used ropes are probably better.  I say probably because being 'used' their quality and condition obviously varies, but overall they are probably the better option.

In my opinion the rope you have is probably passable depending on how you plan to use it and how it is being belayed on the other end.  Like I said above pioneering climbers likely climbed on lower performing ropes.  However pioneering climbers also didn't regularly take big falls onto their ropes.

Harnesses and the rest of modern climber gear is also expensive.so if you intend on using all that, then the cost of the rope is low.

Aanif.  Read more and learn more.  If you learn enough you will be able to decide appropriately yourself what equipment you can afford and what is appropriate for you.

Mark Berenblum wrote: Aanif - I figured the shipping would be prohibitively expensive, but there has to be another solution beyond using that rope for leading. If you aren't already familiar with the static vs. dynamic distinction, I'd recommend doing some reading and, ideally, finding a mentor or a guide to teach you alpine climbing. The two have very different uses. The best static rope will break your body in half if used for lead climbing, so it's not just a matter of getting quality equipment. It's a matter of getting the right quality equipment. It could very well be that your friend was injured because he was using the wrong tool for the job (leading on a static rope) and not because the rope was insufficiently strong.

Alpine climbing is unique in that it essentially can cover all the other climbing disciplines... ice, snow, rock. If the climbing you're doing involves the risk of a free-fall, then you really cannot climb without a proper rope or you will seriously hurt yourself when you fall. A sliding fall on snow is a different matter with a bit more leeway, but I'm guessing that's not what you're looking to do. In many cases, you'd be safer just self-belaying with an ice ax for that kind of climbing anyway.

If this were up to me, and I was dead-set on vertical roped climbing, I would say my order of preference would be:
1. Getting a new dynamic rope from a real climbing manufacturer that's UIAA certified. The DMM one sold by Ascender.pk that Mark NH linked to is a real climbing rope, but I understand it's expensive (~$180 USD).
2. A used dynamic rope in good condition, manufactured by a real climbing company and with UIAA certification
3. Giving up roped leading until I can get one of the above!! There are plenty of other climbing disciplines where having the right rope is a little less important (but still important!). You could toprope, or climb snow, or better yet boulder!
4.  Using an off-brand DYNAMIC rope that's not UIAA certified, but this would be a very risky option

Under no circumstances would I use an off-brand static rope for leading (which is, I think, what your black rope is). Good luck and stay safe! Climbing is fun, but so is living!

well actually most of the alpine climbs I do, doesn't involve completely vertical climb, hence no chance of free fall, at most the it's about 70 degrees slope...!!! would this rope work for now? (of course till I save enough money to buy a good dynamic rope) 

patto wrote: While safe and cautious advice is warranted, I do find it interesting the lack of understanding their own affluence people have in this thread.  The US is certainly the wrong place to be buying a rope, international shipping prices out of the US are generally insane.

The fact is that not everybody has the same income, access or affluence.  Responses should be adjusted accordingly.  Aanif might not have the same income as many of us.  Or maybe he has much more.  I don't know.  The point is perspective.

The rope Aanif has is probably better than what many great routes were climbed with 50-60 years ago.

Used ropes are probably better.  I say probably because being 'used' their quality and condition obviously varies, but overall they are probably the better option.

In my opinion the rope you have is probably passable depending on how you plan to use it and how it is being belayed on the other end.  Like I said above pioneering climbers likely climbed on lower performing ropes.  However pioneering climbers also didn't regularly take big falls onto their ropes.

Harnesses and the rest of modern climber gear is also expensive.so if you intend on using all that, then the cost of the rope is low.

Aanif.  Read more and learn more.  If you learn enough you will be able to decide appropriately yourself what equipment you can afford and what is appropriate for you.

Glad someone understands..... 

Let me entertain everyone a little more :D .... (not proud of it though)
The Ice Axe I use is about 30 years old (simond metallica 720)
my harness is petzl corolles 1996 which had a DMM belay device with it
I bought Chinese crampons (BRS-1A ** pretty solid though but cheap)
I use banged up snow boarding boots for climbs that are above 5000 meters (I modified them by attaching a homemade gaiter)
I use a cycling helmet....

Here is a picture,,,,,

Climbing is an expensive sport.... specially for someone from Pakistan

But I'm motivated and I'm sure I'll get there someday.....
I'll start saving up....and I'll get there....

Briggs Lazalde wrote: This might be the most awe inspiring troll I've been graced to behold. If its legit than that is equally awesome but if its a troll hes world class

sorry bro.... not a troll.... I'm serious....

Assuming this IS legit, and thus equally awesome to an awe inspiring grace to behold.  

It seems to me that there should be opportunities to meet international climbers, who would be shipping in all kinds of gear into the mountains.  Does all of that gear get shipped back, or does some of it find it's way to local markets?

Petroclimbsagain wrote: Assuming this IS legit, and thus equally awesome to an awe inspiring grace to behold.  

It seems to me that there should be opportunities to meet international climbers, who would be shipping in all kinds of gear into the mountains.  Does all of that gear get shipped back, or does some of it find it's way to local markets?

some of it does make it to the local market but they are sold at almost the same rate as retail.....!!!!

I don't know what you guys find hard to believe....?

It did meet Elizbeth Revol last year 

The used stuff sells close to retail price!?!   I thought you said your rope was stiff, didn't realize you meant the climbers.  

You could always set up a top-rope, and test to see if the rope is dynamic or not.  A new dynamic 60 M rope will stretch ~3-4 M when loaded with body-weight.